2010 450 hot start tips/help


36 replies to this topic
  • tech24

Posted July 12, 2010 - 11:39 AM

#1

Well I thought I had this thing figured out but I went for my first real ride this weekend. Some of the riding was tight leave covered slippery crap so I stalled a few times.

I can't seem to get this thing started easily after a stall or if I shut the bike off. The only way it wants to start is if I clear flood first or let it sit.

Am I doing something wrong, is this a technique thing. Or should I just wait til I get a tuner (hopefully very soon) and try some maps and see what happens.

The bike runs great but every hot start seems like its flooding. Am I alone of this. BTW, the way I have been starting is bring up on compression slow and then kick it, not using throttle or doing anything goofy?

  • BillDozer

Posted July 12, 2010 - 04:11 PM

#2

Well I thought I had this thing figured out but I went for my first real ride this weekend. Some of the riding was tight leave covered slippery crap so I stalled a few times.

I can't seem to get this thing started easily after a stall or if I shut the bike off. The only way it wants to start is if I clear flood first or let it sit.

Am I doing something wrong, is this a technique thing. Or should I just wait til I get a tuner (hopefully very soon) and try some maps and see what happens.

The bike runs great but every hot start seems like its flooding. Am I alone of this. BTW, the way I have been starting is bring up on compression slow and then kick it, not using throttle or doing anything goofy?



I've been riding mine for a few months now. When I get into some techical stuff and the bike heats up, it likes the fast idle knob pulled out for a hot start. Works every time for me.

  • CaptainKnobby

Posted July 12, 2010 - 08:21 PM

#3

When mine is hot and I go to start it again,I just kick it once then slowly push the kick starter down til it gets hard then I bring the kick starter back up and give it a smooth kick.

It usually takes two of these and it starts right up. Today though while it was cold I tried to start it like my 06 by just kicking it and it fired right up on about the 6th kick.

I'll have to try it like that when the engine is hot to see if it will fire up on the 3rd kick.

  • tech24

Posted July 13, 2010 - 03:48 AM

#4

ill try the fast idle knob thing. I ordered a tuner last night so i'll try some different maps this weekend. I guess I just need to get used to the thing. It just sucks when everyone with their e-start is waiting for me to start my bike on the side of a hill.

  • spinyard

Posted July 13, 2010 - 11:02 AM

#5

e -start is unnecessary if you ask me kick it !

  • Beatcoaster

Posted July 13, 2010 - 02:10 PM

#6

2 weekends ago I was in some tight trails and my bike was stalling constantly to the point I was about to toss it down the mountain. Nothing is more frustrating than having to kick start your bike at every large rock/root that you have to roll up onto or bog slightly on - unacceptable. The clutch work and revs I had to ride at were insane compared to anything I have ridden before. It is as if the idle has to stay at a certain rpm or the damn bike will just shut itself off, this is super fun as your momentum keeps your body moving over the handlebars as well!!! I would have to find neutral, pull out the idle knob, pull in the clutch and do the typical 3 kick procedure on the compression stroke for it to start. Having to find neutral in itself is a joke on a muddy 25 degree incline as your friends are clowning your purchase and saying "nice bike!" while waiting for you the whole time. I now have the tuner and will be upping the idle when I go out this Wednesday - we shall see if these two things help a bit. A 51T rear is on order as well... So far my happiness with the bike has only been in the open fields and forest roads where it can just fly, I was hoping for a lot more at this point...

I am a bit fearful to do hill climbs, thinking that it might die on me at the top as I slow down for the crest. I can envision it tumbling 100+ feet down to the bottom after I get up from sailing over the bars - yes, I think it has a mind of it's own and is that bad at times...

  • tech24

Posted July 13, 2010 - 04:34 PM

#7

2 weekends ago I was in some tight trails and my bike was stalling constantly to the point I was about to toss it down the mountain. Nothing is more frustrating than having to kick start your bike at every large rock/root that you have to roll up onto or bog slightly on - unacceptable. The clutch work and revs I had to ride at were insane compared to anything I have ridden before. It is as if the idle has to stay at a certain rpm or the damn bike will just shut itself off, this is super fun as your momentum keeps your body moving over the handlebars as well!!! I would have to find neutral, pull out the idle knob, pull in the clutch and do the typical 3 kick procedure on the compression stroke for it to start. Having to find neutral in itself is a joke on a muddy 25 degree incline as your friends are clowning your purchase and saying "nice bike!" while waiting for you the whole time. I now have the tuner and will be upping the idle when I go out this Wednesday - we shall see if these two things help a bit. A 51T rear is on order as well... So far my happiness with the bike has only been in the open fields and forest roads where it can just fly, I was hoping for a lot more at this point...

I am a bit fearful to do hill climbs, thinking that it might die on me at the top as I slow down for the crest. I can envision it tumbling 100+ feet down to the bottom after I get up from sailing over the bars - yes, I think it has a mind of it's own and is that bad at times...


Well thats similar to how some of my riding was this weekend. I could only get the bike started in nuetral and like you said is not fun leaning of a rock in the wrong direction on a slippery hill side. I still love the bike but I gotta figure this out. Programmer is ariving tomorrow

  • BBrown626

Posted July 13, 2010 - 07:43 PM

#8

The idle setting is key. Aside from that it is technique. You have to gently roll it over to the compression stroke then a swift kick should do it. Did anyone mention that the idle setting has a big impact?

  • tech24

Posted July 14, 2010 - 04:41 AM

#9

The idle setting is key. Aside from that it is technique. You have to gently roll it over to the compression stroke then a swift kick should do it. Did anyone mention that the idle setting has a big impact?


Well thats how I attempt to start it and no luck. My idle seems ok I can't check idle speed tii I put hour meter on or get my tuner but I haven't tried starting in fast idle mode yet. What is your idle set at? Book spec or higher?

Edited by tech24, July 14, 2010 - 05:08 AM.


  • APlusAutoParts

Posted July 14, 2010 - 05:15 AM

#10

I am strictly a track rider only. i will say you guys should have read the Manuel when you got this bike like i did. if you want to adjust your idle, which was the first thing i did at the track when i rode mine because i kept stalling at turns. the cold start knob is the idle adjustment, rotate it toward the front and the idle goes up rotate it towards the back and the idle goes down. i will also say i was one of the first with this bike. picked mine up jan 16th. i ride very hard and 4 days a week. since i have had mine it has gotten much easier to start, however hot it really wants to be in neutral. i used to have to pull cold start all the time, now i dont use it at all. hope this helps

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • APlusAutoParts

Posted July 14, 2010 - 05:17 AM

#11

look at my join date for thumper talk, it was because i couldnt start the bike that i am a member here

  • tech24

Posted July 14, 2010 - 06:18 AM

#12

I am strictly a track rider only. i will say you guys should have read the Manuel when you got this bike like i did. if you want to adjust your idle, which was the first thing i did at the track when i rode mine because i kept stalling at turns. the cold start knob is the idle adjustment, rotate it toward the front and the idle goes up rotate it towards the back and the idle goes down. i will also say i was one of the first with this bike. picked mine up jan 16th. i ride very hard and 4 days a week. since i have had mine it has gotten much easier to start, however hot it really wants to be in neutral. i used to have to pull cold start all the time, now i dont use it at all. hope this helps


I did read the manual and know how to adjust the idle just don't have anyway of reading rpm at the moment although my ear works very well and I sure its close to spec either way. But I agree mine does not like to start in gear and maybe thats the way it will remain I guess. I haven't tired using the cold start knob when hot so can't say how that will do. My stalling was more me than the bike if I was on a trail bike I'd probly been ok but this is an MX bike and Im not really concerned with the stalling, plus woods map is going in this weekend so that should help also.

Thanks for the input hope mine gets easier to start when its hot those damn honda guys I ride with will never let it go...lol

  • Beatcoaster

Posted July 14, 2010 - 10:49 AM

#13

I set my idle a bit higher using the tuner to view it last night. Around 1950-2050 was the float range where it still sounded like it was idling, but sped up a little. At 2100+ it sounded a bit too fast for an idle. I also uploaded the "less hit" map and I am going riding tonight after work so we shall see how it helps...The GYTR 51T and new chain are in the mail as well, so that will be the next step for the trails.

  • tech24

Posted July 14, 2010 - 11:11 AM

#14

I set my idle a bit higher using the tuner to view it last night. Around 1950-2050 was the float range where it still sounded like it was idling, but sped up a little. At 2100+ it sounded a bit too fast for an idle. I also uploaded the "less hit" map and I am going riding tonight after work so we shall see how it helps...The GYTR 51T and new chain are in the mail as well, so that will be the next step for the trails.


let me know, the less hit map will be my first try too as soon as I can

  • jeff_wsu

Posted July 14, 2010 - 09:18 PM

#15

#1. Buy the power tuner. I tuned my idle to 2000 like the manual said.

#2. I don't know how you liked the stock setting but I used the power tuner and adjusted it to this map:

http://www.yamaha-mo...r_settings.aspx

Stock Exhaust, 4th setting. Stretches the power and takes away the stock low end hit. SWEET!

Good Luck.

  • Beatcoaster

Posted July 15, 2010 - 06:52 AM

#16

Went riding last night. The less hit map left me unimpressed, it seems I have already gotten used to the bike being ridiculously fast off the start and it left me wanting more power. That may be just me, and I can always dial it back in a bit with the tuner, but I found it funny leaving the parking lot, getting on it and saying to myself "wow this is slow, time for a new map!"

Bumping up the idle helped a lot with the starts on some trails but I absolutely still need the 51t on there as the bike still stalled multiple times. Like my post foreshadowed above, I did a small hill as well, and at the top was slowing down at the crest to turn, and sure enough it stalls in 1st and I eat handle bar...funny thing is I had done the same spot multiple times before with zero issue, the rpm just happen to hit some magical rpm point where the bike just shut itself off. There is no "tractoring" of rutty/rooty/rocky sections like my wife's 230 can do in 1st, it has to have throttle/rpm/speed or it will just die and leave you finding neutral, pulling the idle knob out, and kicking it 3 times until it's running again - end of story.

  • cowboyona426

Posted July 15, 2010 - 07:42 AM

#17

Beatcoaster, any idea if the internal gear ratios changed from the 06-09 spec to the 2010 spec? I went 1 tooth smaller up front my 450 and its still not low enough for the real tight stuff. I had my 426 at 13/52 and it was a beast in the woods, to get the same results on my 450 I'd need to go 12/52 or 13/55 because the internal ratios changed from what the 426 had. I'm running 12/49 now and I'm getting quite a bit of wear on my X-ring chain from the TM Designworks slider, so I think I'm gonna have to buy another dang chain and a 55 tooth rear.

  • tech24

Posted July 15, 2010 - 07:57 AM

#18

I have read somewhere they were the same gear ratios but not for certain.

Has anyone tried the woods map? I though most my stalling was me but
maybe not.

I do think I'll need a few spare clutches on hand.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 15, 2010 - 11:54 AM

#19

...any idea if the internal gear ratios changed from the 06-09 spec to the 2010 spec? .

The internal ratios are identical from '06-'10.

  • tech24

Posted July 15, 2010 - 12:22 PM

#20

programmer just arrived woods map here I come! (hopefully might have to work all damn weekend)





Related Content

Forums
Photo

Michigan Motocross Tires by 288yz450


Dirt Bike   Dirt Bike Regional Discussion   North
  • 1 reply
Forums
Photo

First Hare scramble tips by dhend8


Dirt Bike   General Dirt Bike Forums   General Dirt Bike Discussion
  • Hot  33 replies
Forums
Photo
Motocross

Thinking about Yamaha 250... by Arctic Pride


Dirt Bike   Special Interest Forums   Pro Racing
  • Hot  491 replies
Forums
Photo

yz250x vs 450 4t comparisons (preferably desert riding) needed by JakeNorthrupYZ450F


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   Yamaha 2-Stroke
  • 9 replies
Forums
Photo

Megabomb Fitment by 288yz450


Dirt Bike   Make / Model Specific   Yamaha   YZ 400/426/450
  • 1 reply
 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.