Cooling System Questions


6 replies to this topic
  • meclint692002

Posted June 30, 2010 - 10:06 AM

#1

Ok I just picked up an 06 WR 450. Put a JD jet kit in all the free mods changed the oil. I want to flush the cooling system and refill it with fresh coolant. What is the cotton stuff in the overflow line? Can I use the automotive all makes all models antifreeze or should I use the yamaha stuff? I got an awesome deal on this bike only thing left on the to do list is valve adjust and maybe change the cam chain. Thanks in advance for the help.

  • Flagstaff

Posted June 30, 2010 - 08:35 PM

#2

Not sure of the stuff in the overflow line, never noticed any. I use the long-life prestone antifreeze for aluminum engines (the orange stuff) in all my motorcycles.Ithink GM spec is on the lable.

  • Col Psoas

Posted June 30, 2010 - 08:55 PM

#3

Dont know about the cotton stuff. Yes you can or should be able to use most any auto antifreeze as long as its safe for aluminum (they all should be), Prestone comes to mind, make sure it can mix with any color if you don't plan on doing a good flush

Nothing cools better than distilled water + water wetter... the downside is freeze protection and boil over protection

Engine ice is a great compromise between freezing protection, boil over protection and lubrication of the bits. (I'll be switching to it next time I flush my coolant fwiw)

Evans has the highest boiling point of anything I know, the short answer is that it will never boil, but it shoudn't take much thinking that 400 degree coolant in your motor is a BAD thing... assuming it gets that hot but never should of course

I guess one of the the biggest considerations is would you prefer to run your engine cooler or not boil as much, my wr's puke tank does its job so its an easy choice for me. I need freeze protection though and I simply don't buy the advice to change your coolant all that often (cars go 150,000 miles before a change)...
I used to work an a radiator shop and I've seen it all, its not motor oil people!

Ok off my soapbox now, I would recommend engine ice based on the recommendations of others and its what I'll be putting in mine when I get around to changing the coolant in my bike. I don't see freezing being such a strong possibility in texas so I highly recommend you look into distilled water + redline's water wetter... after a good flush of course

Best luck in your choice

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  • Mutu

Posted July 01, 2010 - 12:18 AM

#4

+1 what Col says!

When you flush the radiators, flush them with vinegar cut 10:1 with water. Just drop the coolant, fill with vinegar mix, run for a minute, then drop mix.
Do the same with straight water, then drop and add what ever coolant you like.

As for coolant, any coolant that does not contain silicates is fine. I run engine ice in my bikes, I found it to be better than stock coolant for boil over protection.

  • Col Psoas

Posted July 01, 2010 - 08:12 AM

#5

One more thing I want to throw in before you do the system work: Some people like the upgraded impellars for the water pump made by various companies, you may want to consider that

Also, when you refil your system you do NOT need/want air in it. Lots of people say you want an air cushion... it May (possible but i'm not convinced) help keep it from boiling over when your coolant expands due to heat but that it Not how these things are designed to operate,
A car will overheat of you have air in the system and it ends up in the head or block, why? its simple, You get air next to a Very hot piston/combustion chamber etc and it does Nothing to take the heat away, thats why coolants are liquid anyways. So... when you flush and refil your system you need to make sure its warm enough to be circulating properly (what Mutu said should work pleny fine) then fill it up DON'T GET BURNED WHEN YOU DRAIN IT, it will be under pressure and try to spray out when you take the cap off, the fill it with whichever you choose (as much as you can get in there) and let it get warm again, it Shouldn't (key word: shouldn't) spill out if you let it idle and leave the cap off. Once you can see the pump is working and its circulating (its pretty obvious even if you've never seen it before) make sure no more bubbles are coming to the surface, there wont be many after the water pump gets going, simply twist the cap on and call it good. If it expands and some spills out, who cares? thats what the puke tank is for after all (assuming you have one, I know the 07+ do) and when it cools a little the bike will suck it right back into the radiators and everybody's happy
Good Luck

  • meclint692002

Posted July 06, 2010 - 06:02 AM

#6

Okay so I flushed it with vinegar, that did nothing to the crap in my cooling system. I used half clr and half water to finally get the junk to break up. I then used vinegar and water. Then I flushed the system with three gallons of distilled water. Then I put the engine ice in. I feel much better now. Thanks for the advice. Oh yeah the crap in my cooling system I think was that leak stop junk. I don't think that fixed the leak cause the bike has a new radiator on the left side. Thanks again for the advice. Now a new rear tire and get the suspension dialed in and then I can put some miles on it.

  • Col Psoas

Posted July 06, 2010 - 10:31 PM

#7

I'm glad to hear you got it cleaned out. It doesn't sound like you could have done it any better actually.
Now get out there and and test it! :) :banana:




 
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