Cooling System Questions
Posted June 30, 2010 - 10:06 AM
Posted June 30, 2010 - 08:35 PM
Posted June 30, 2010 - 08:55 PM
Nothing cools better than distilled water + water wetter... the downside is freeze protection and boil over protection
Engine ice is a great compromise between freezing protection, boil over protection and lubrication of the bits. (I'll be switching to it next time I flush my coolant fwiw)
Evans has the highest boiling point of anything I know, the short answer is that it will never boil, but it shoudn't take much thinking that 400 degree coolant in your motor is a BAD thing... assuming it gets that hot but never should of course
I guess one of the the biggest considerations is would you prefer to run your engine cooler or not boil as much, my wr's puke tank does its job so its an easy choice for me. I need freeze protection though and I simply don't buy the advice to change your coolant all that often (cars go 150,000 miles before a change)...
I used to work an a radiator shop and I've seen it all, its not motor oil people!
Ok off my soapbox now, I would recommend engine ice based on the recommendations of others and its what I'll be putting in mine when I get around to changing the coolant in my bike. I don't see freezing being such a strong possibility in texas so I highly recommend you look into distilled water + redline's water wetter... after a good flush of course
Best luck in your choice
Posted July 01, 2010 - 12:18 AM
When you flush the radiators, flush them with vinegar cut 10:1 with water. Just drop the coolant, fill with vinegar mix, run for a minute, then drop mix.
Do the same with straight water, then drop and add what ever coolant you like.
As for coolant, any coolant that does not contain silicates is fine. I run engine ice in my bikes, I found it to be better than stock coolant for boil over protection.
Posted July 01, 2010 - 08:12 AM
Also, when you refil your system you do NOT need/want air in it. Lots of people say you want an air cushion... it May (possible but i'm not convinced) help keep it from boiling over when your coolant expands due to heat but that it Not how these things are designed to operate,
A car will overheat of you have air in the system and it ends up in the head or block, why? its simple, You get air next to a Very hot piston/combustion chamber etc and it does Nothing to take the heat away, thats why coolants are liquid anyways. So... when you flush and refil your system you need to make sure its warm enough to be circulating properly (what Mutu said should work pleny fine) then fill it up DON'T GET BURNED WHEN YOU DRAIN IT, it will be under pressure and try to spray out when you take the cap off, the fill it with whichever you choose (as much as you can get in there) and let it get warm again, it Shouldn't (key word: shouldn't) spill out if you let it idle and leave the cap off. Once you can see the pump is working and its circulating (its pretty obvious even if you've never seen it before) make sure no more bubbles are coming to the surface, there wont be many after the water pump gets going, simply twist the cap on and call it good. If it expands and some spills out, who cares? thats what the puke tank is for after all (assuming you have one, I know the 07+ do) and when it cools a little the bike will suck it right back into the radiators and everybody's happy
Posted July 06, 2010 - 06:02 AM
Posted July 06, 2010 - 10:31 PM
Now get out there and and test it!