Bike ONLY starts in Neutral


7 replies to this topic
  • Mrmonk7663

Posted June 24, 2010 - 10:22 PM

#1

Ok, so today I got my replacement choke and assorted odds and ends. Put it on the carb. Went to start it up. I kicked the bike close to 25 times, and not once did it even sound like it was firing or attempting to start. I tried the electric start. Starter turned motor over like normal, but not even a cough here either, so I thought....maybe I flooded it.
Drained the carb bowl, tried again...no cough, nothing. Turned fuel back on to refil carb bowl. Then I noticed I was in first gear (yes I was holding in clutch) I shift to neutral. I kick it 1x and it starts right up. I let it run, turn it off. Let it sit. Go back and fires up instantly in neutral. I go for a ride, tuning was messed up, and bike died while idling (1st gear now since i was riding) Kick it....nothing....shift to neutral, instant startup.

So I am 100% sure that my bike only starts in neutral. But the reason for this I have no clue? Can someone help me? I want to be able to start the bike in any gear with the clutch pulled in....like a normal bike :)

Thanks,
Mike

Also, could someone explain the difference in function of the neutral switch by the gear shifter and the neutral switch mounted on the clutch perch? I know I can remove the one by the shifter ala blue wire mod, or block off plate....and I have read something about inserting a wire into the female connector of the clutch perch wiring....But honestly I would like to know the independent function of both of these electrical parts, and if their functions are indpendent of each other or tied into each other somehow. Anyone care to take a shot at all this? Thanks guys.

Edited by Mrmonk7663, June 25, 2010 - 01:53 AM.
question


  • William1

Posted June 25, 2010 - 02:50 AM

#2

Check your clutch safety switch and connections.

The blue wire does not bypass the neutral safety switch, it is a signal wire to the CDI, making the CDI think you are in gear, giving you a slightly advanced ignition at idle. I have found this to be a pointless mod on a bike in good condition.
To bypass the clutch switch, either remove the switch froim the perh and bundle it up behind the umber plate, ensure the plunger on the tip is not depressed or cut thye wires and the two from the plug, solder together and shrink wrap.

To start, the drive train must be disconnected, be it by being in neutral or by the clutch being held. So if the bike is in gear, the clutch lever must be squeezed. If it is in neutral, it does not matter if the lever is squeezed.

  • Mrmonk7663

Posted June 25, 2010 - 03:02 AM

#3

Thank u for the explanation. So basically I have one of two problems. Either my neutral switch on my perch is messed up or disconnected, or maybe my clutch is not adjusted right which is making the switch not work. I'm gonna lean towards the latter because my bike was jumping when kicking with the clutch pulled in. Dumb question but do I turn the nut towards the perch (tightening the nut) or do I unscrew the nut to make the clutch engage more and eliminate the "jumping". I screwed it all the way in and it still did it...so either I turned it the wrong way or maybe I need a new cable. What do u think?

  • Jackazz

Posted June 25, 2010 - 06:21 AM

#4

Dumb question but do I turn the nut towards the perch (tightening the nut) or do I unscrew the nut to make the clutch engage more and eliminate the "jumping". I screwed it all the way in and it still did it...so either I turned it the wrong way or maybe I need a new cable. What do u think?


You need to back the perch adjuster out, or unscrew it to tighten the cable & increase the amount the clutch disengages (assuming that there are no issues with the actual clutch).:)

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • William1

Posted June 25, 2010 - 08:24 AM

#5

Clutch out of adjustment will not matter regarding the lever being squeezed.
\\\
BTW, you want only enough freeplay at the perch to allow a nickel to slip in the gap.

  • Mrmonk7663

Posted June 25, 2010 - 10:12 AM

#6

Ok well I adjusted the wrong way yesterday which would account for the bike jumping. When u say nickel of freeplay...I'm not sure I know what u mean? Also regardless of my clutch adjustment my problem still lies in the electronics coming from the perch ur saying? Thanks guys.

  • Jackazz

Posted June 25, 2010 - 10:44 AM

#7

When u say nickel of freeplay...I'm not sure I know what u mean?


He means that there should be enough free-play in the clutch lever after adjusting the cable that you can slide a nickel (5¢) between the clutch lever & clutch perch without the clutch starting to disengage.

  • Mrmonk7663

Posted June 25, 2010 - 11:33 AM

#8

Alright thanks !!!




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.