Lights seem to drain battery?


26 replies to this topic
  • Bandit9

Posted July 08, 2010 - 04:54 AM

#21

Battery is good. Was getting 12.9 volts everywhere after charge. Also, with full charge, the tail light is working again.

What is the deal with the 3 prong connector going into the head light? I'm getting 12.9 volts going into the headlight, but the headlight doesn't work.

How does the headlight ground back to the frame? Seems like that is the main issue.

  • William1

Posted July 08, 2010 - 05:18 AM

#22

Depends on how the bike was wired. Check the ground wire at the headlight plug for continuioty to the neg. of the battery. If bad, you are going to have to trace it to find the fault. Normally, there is a wire grounded to the frame (not forks) and/or the battery.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 08, 2010 - 08:27 AM

#23

Battery is good. Was getting 12.9 volts everywhere after charge. Also, with full charge, the tail light is working again.

What is the deal with the 3 prong connector going into the head light? I'm getting 12.9 volts going into the headlight, but the headlight doesn't work.

How does the headlight ground back to the frame? Seems like that is the main issue.


If you stator has been modded or an aftermarket stator (floated ground), the negative should come directly off the battery. I don't think you want that grounded. Check your headlight wiring as both leads should be coming off the battery with some kind of switch (hi, low, off) in between.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Bandit9

Posted July 08, 2010 - 04:06 PM

#24

Well, something is up with the ground. Never could figure it out. Mike w/Ricky Stator helped me for a long time. I'm sure if he were able to get his hands on the bike he could figure it out in mins. I ended up tapping into another power source and making a new ground. Just so I can ride on Saturday. The lights come on without the main on/off button pressed down. So I have the light switch taped to fix it on off for now. Once the new switch comes in, I'll do a more permanent job. The new stator/regulator seems to be doing it's job. Getting 13.8 volts with bike running. So hopefully my battery will last more than an hour on Saturday.

  • William1

Posted July 08, 2010 - 05:12 PM

#25

You should be getting closer to 14.5 volts.

I suggest, after the ride, that you disconnect ever connection, one at a time, clean and confirm the wire and connection is good with your meter. Spoend a few hours to make everything is right.

  • Bandit9

Posted July 08, 2010 - 06:23 PM

#26

It very well could have gotten to 14.5V. The carb ran out of fuel while the numbers on the meter were climbing. It was creeping close to 14v when she died. My tank is off the bike, so I was just using the fuel left in the carb to start it up for a few moments to see if the battery was being charged.

  • Bandit9

Posted October 18, 2010 - 01:22 PM

#27

Just to wrap this thread up, It ended up being the switch, just like Mike w/Rickey Stator suggested. I replaced the switch with a Trail Tech one, and so far so good. Not blowing fuses anymore and the battery is strong all the time. Even with me running the headlight while riding. So thanks for the help.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.