Lights seem to drain battery?


26 replies to this topic
  • Bandit9

Posted June 16, 2010 - 07:01 PM

#1

I bought an 06 WR450F in November. It has one of those "Barley Legal" RYCO DS kits. No blinkers. Can't find RYCO on the net. Anyway, if I ride with the lights on, a brand new battery will last 30 miles before it dies and I'm kickstarting the rest of the day. Also, it has another black wire tapped into the negative at the terminal. Nothing on the positive terminal. What could this wire be? I'm a total electrical noob, so how do I go about getting this fixed? Think a Yamaha dealer can handle this? LOL!

  • William1

Posted June 17, 2010 - 04:08 AM

#2

You are expereincing part of the problem of some of these DS kits. Since they do not do a stator modification, the total power available to the battery is probably less than the total draw of the kit, thereby slowly draining the battery.
A dealer might be able to help you if they have someone who actually understands electrics and not just how to follow the manual.
If your headlight only is on when the engine is running, you may be able to sudstitute the tail light bulb for an LED version and get by.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted June 17, 2010 - 06:19 AM

#3

I would highly recommend the Baja Designs stator mod (about $30) or a plug and play high power stator like Trailtech or Electrosport. That way you will have all available power running to your battery.

  • RickyStator

Posted June 17, 2010 - 08:17 AM

#4

If your in the market for a stator we are offering all TT members a 15% discount. Our stator is a 100% DC system so it should correct the problem.
http://www.rickystat...products_id=391

  • William1

Posted June 17, 2010 - 02:17 PM

#5

Everyone, an all DC stator (Stator mod is my recommendation if in fact it is the correct solution) and RR may solve the problem, it depends if the headlight wiring was converted to DC also. Many of the minimalist kits leave it AC. Lets' wait till the OP tells us if the headlight only comes on when the bike is running.

  • Bandit9

Posted June 17, 2010 - 06:20 PM

#6

I can turn on the headlight without running the motor.

  • William1

Posted June 18, 2010 - 02:46 AM

#7

I can turn on the headlight without running the motor.


..and therein lies the problem! You need to do the stator mod or but a stator alread modified/made to be all DC and probably replace the regulator rectifier with one capable of handling the increased power. There is a reason the cheap kits are cheap.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted June 18, 2010 - 05:56 AM

#8

..and therein lies the problem! You need to do the stator mod or but a stator alread modified/made to be all DC and probably replace the regulator rectifier with one capable of handling the increased power. There is a reason the cheap kits are cheap.


Yeah, could be that the previous owner just wired up the kit to the battery, not making sure that the stock system sent enough juice to the battery. William, you ever sleep? :thumbsup:

  • William1

Posted June 18, 2010 - 10:10 AM

#9

LOL, not as much as I'd like. Due to health problems during the last year, I end up with about 4 hours a day. Couple that with spoiled rotten Irish Setters that shove me out of bed.....

  • Bandit9

Posted June 18, 2010 - 10:55 AM

#10

Thank you for the help. I'll call Ricky Stator and see what we need to do.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Bandit9

Posted June 20, 2010 - 05:02 PM

#11

This new stator won't effect my flywheel weight any will it?

  • William1

Posted June 20, 2010 - 05:22 PM

#12

No, the stator mod and the Roicky stator are the same as OEM, just wired differently.

You stock stator outputs two sets of power. Both of these are AC. One set is used to power the stock headlight, the other set is converted to DC and regulated to about 14.5V and is used to charge the battery (which in turn, powers the CDI and tail light).

Your (and most Dual Sport) kit no longer uses the AC output and is being run off of the battery. The AC output is going no where. The DC half of the stator oputput has to do all the work, which as you discovered, it cannot.

The stator mod and Ricky Stator combine both outputs (they are identical 'after the dust settles') and use a larger, more robust regulator/rectifier and turn all of the output of the stator into regulated DC.

So..... The stator puts the same demands on the engine but puts the otputed power into a more location. Nothing changes your flywheel at all.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted June 21, 2010 - 07:13 AM

#13

Thank you for the help. I'll call Ricky Stator and see what we need to do.


Before you buy a stator, check this thread out...

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=721647

  • Bandit9

Posted June 21, 2010 - 06:56 PM

#14

Thanks for the link. I ordered the Ricky Stator last Friday. I'm not really into night riding. I just want the battery to last like it should. I should be fine with the Ricky Stator right?

  • William1

Posted June 22, 2010 - 02:48 AM

#15

Yes, you'll be fine. Dawg and I were only trying proffer less expensive solutions.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted June 22, 2010 - 05:57 AM

#16

Yes, you'll be fine. Dawg and I were only trying proffer less expensive solutions.


+1 :thumbsup:

  • Bandit9

Posted July 07, 2010 - 08:56 AM

#17

Well, I installed the new Ricky Stator/regulator. Got it all plugged in. Started bike. Cool. Go to check lights, and no headlight. ***? Tail lights worked for a while, then they went out. Battery isn't dead though. Got on the phone with Mike w/Ricky Stator and he had me use a test light and check a bunch of wires. He thinks it is the switch. Which he may be right, but the switch worked just fine until I changed out the stator. So I ordered a switch from Trail Tech. Should get it in a week. I also put in a new bulb that was the same as before thinking maybe I somehow broke the bulb during the install. Not the bulb. The red power wire on the switch isn't getting power. It is tapped into a yellow/blue wire. Those are not getting power on their side either. However there is a brown wire in the next little plug over that has power. Couldn't I just tap this brown wire with the red wire for the power on the switch? I just held them together with my finger and the light still didn't come one. It could be the switch. It's a cheap flimsy pos K+S switch.

If my headlights worked with the bike NOT running before I switched the stator, then the headlights had/have to be DC right? So I shouldn't need to be trying to figure out how to do that.

So if my bike is already DC, then this new stator/regulator thing shouldn't have messed with the lights at all right? If not the switch, what else could possibly be wrong?

I don't have a DVM. I will go purchase one today. Sounds like I'm gonna need it.

  • Bandit9

Posted July 07, 2010 - 11:51 AM

#18

Ok, just went and bought a DVM. Hooked the meter to the battery with nothing on and got 11.81, got the same reading with the power on. Now this is a brand new YUSA battery that I bought 2 weeks ago. I have been having the power switch on testing stuff and I crank it up a few times. So I will Battery Tender it this afternoon and take another reading, but I feel good that the battery isn't the issue. Then I checked the 3 wires going into the headlight on that black 3 prong connector. All 3 of them read 11.76. But still no lights.

Anyone care to jump in and rescue my planned weekend of riding?

  • William1

Posted July 07, 2010 - 12:06 PM

#19

The battery is either dead or bad. Charged, it should have about 12.8 volts. After you take it off the charger, turn the bike on (no starting it) and then off, then check the voltage. Should be 12.8. If not, either the tender was unable to charge it or the battery is shot.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted July 07, 2010 - 01:50 PM

#20

Agree with William1. That battery does not seem right. Voltage should be mid to upper 12's. Hopefully the charge will take care of it for you. Some batteries are not shipped fully charged and they should be put on a charger right from the get go. If the battery is good, but just needs a charge, I would think it should still run the lights fine with about 1/4 throttle though.

One thing I have discovered with batteries that won't hold a charge or have dead cells is that from nearly dead they will show fully charged on a battery charger in a matter of a few minutes or less. My original WR battery behaved this way after about a year and a half and had to be replaced.




 
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