1975 Kawasaki Z1-900 Restoration
Posted 12 August 2010 - 05:37 AM
xr650r2000 said:
Tools and supplies: Sandblaster/sand $125; zinc plating kit $75; aluminum polishing kit $25-30. Other materials: various paint $75, various abrasives/sandpaper $20; maybe another $20-30 in cleaners, chemical and rags.
For the bike, I'd say I have at most $1000 in parts. More than half of that money was in the wheels and tires. There were a few chrome pieces I had to replace like the shocks and the steering stem bolt. Those were pretty bad. I didn't buy the first thing I saw. For instance, the levers I bout (aftermarket) $15 for the pair on Ebay. If there was anything that had the "Make Offer" option on Ebay I'd make an offer. The shocks were listd for $99 + $13 shipping, I made an offer of $87 + $13, an even $100 and they accepted.
It's still not 'pristine'. Over the winter I'm going to get all the misc chrome parts together and get them replated. Things like the rear brake pedal, the grab bar behind the seat. I'm going to try to repaint the handlebar switches and replace the phillips screws fastening the engine covers. I probobly have about $150 or so more to spend over the winter.
I can tell you this, having that sandblaster 'on hand' is the only way to go. I made a friggin beach outside my bay door. lol If you think you're going to get away with just getting the frame and swingarm blasted you're wrong. There's all sorts of small brackets and fasteners you'll need to strip down. It was definately worth buying. You should try to buy a pressurized tank system instead of the gravity feed like I bought. Mine worked 'ok' it just took a little longer. Just from plating the axle adjusters and a couple other small parts the zinc plater paid for itself, so you might want to look into one of those.
Refinishing the body was the most gratifying. And finding that 2 part clear coat was the icing on the cake and gave a nice deep shine. The hardest part was waiting for the paint to dry between coats.
Posted 05 November 2010 - 02:22 PM
The restore looks great. I am 90% through my '75 restore that I have been working on for 5 years. Just like you my bike also belong to my dad. I have hit a snag and was hoping you could help me out.
Since it has been so long since I broke down the bike I can't remember how the front of the main wire harness is routed through and around the front part of the frame and the gauge cluster.
Do you have any pictures that show the wiring harness in the front part of the frame? My wires that connect to the front lights are bare and exposed just behind the headlight bucket, are these wires suppose to be tucked inside the headlight bucket? Are these wires suppose to be wrapped in a sleeve? Also, all the electrical works but I have a couple of wire that are not connected to anything, did you have this well or is everything suppose to be connected to something? I am thinking these two loose wires are probably meant to be used on the European models and thus are left unconnected on the US model.
Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated?
Thanks!
Posted 08 November 2010 - 06:29 PM






All the wires connected to something, do you have any photos of yours and the loose wires? I can take a pic with the headlight removed if you need more help.
Posted 08 November 2010 - 06:55 PM
Posted 09 November 2010 - 09:26 AM
Posted 04 December 2010 - 12:54 PM
Your old Dad would be very proud.
Posted 09 December 2010 - 05:59 PM
Posted 10 December 2010 - 01:56 PM
I'm slowly but surely replacing little things. I just replaced the engine cover bolts and have a few other small items like that on order. I bought new float bowl screws too. I'll get an updated pic in a few weeks.
Posted 26 December 2010 - 12:44 AM
Posted 26 December 2010 - 04:00 PM
Posted 06 January 2011 - 07:08 PM
Posted 18 January 2011 - 02:59 PM
Posted 21 February 2011 - 09:33 AM
Original housings.


About 15-20 minutes later. I used a small wire brush to help along the stripper.

Then soda blasted any remaining paint.

Make sure you run taps through any open threads after soda blasting. The soda clogs up threads.

Ready for paint. PJ1 doesn't recommend a primer using this particular paint.

I like the Fast Black because it looks like a factory finish, not too "wet" like most paints.
Posted 21 February 2011 - 09:37 AM




You have to be real fast using this paint. It should stand up to bike washes since it's dishwasher safe on glass. The extra paint wipes off with water, but if it dries you'll have to touch that area up with some Fast Black sprayed in a cup an a small brush. I had a damp, almost wet paper towel rolled up in a tight roll to wipe off the excess. Just udab the paint into the letters with a small brush, also brish side to side to really fil up the letters. Then immediately wipe off. I tried a small, damp sponge too but sometimes it picked up more paint than I wanted. Only do one word at a time.

Back on the bike.

Posted 25 April 2011 - 12:20 PM
Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:11 PM
Those bikes, 76 900's, are pretty desireable too, so I wouldn't ruin anything you can't redo. There's alot of hackers on these bikes. I'm on kzriders and Z1 owners club. Z1OC has more guys looking to preserve the bikes, KZ rider all you see are 1/2 done bobbers and cafe projects.
If your bike is in good shape, or close to it, you'll have a decent investment keeping it as close to original as possible. Post some pics!
Oh, and the most important thing: Do NOT throw anything away! Save everything you take off the bike, even hardware, it's all hard to find and worth money. Complete tool kits can fetch $500+.
Posted 28 April 2011 - 12:17 PM
I have a couple small parts I'm getting ready to install along with a larger front sprocket to handle the highway better.

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