chain slide 2

13 replies to this topic
  • dirtdad

Posted January 12, 2001 - 10:23 PM


I know I've posted a similar question recently, but please indulge me. Knowing that the stock slide wears rather quickly, (for those who check this piece regularly) what do you guys replace it with? Stock or aftermarket? Who makes a better piece? T.M. Designworks item sounds too noisy for my taste (based on the replies I got before) and is kind of pricy. Any opinions would be well received. Thanks.

  • Scott_F

Posted January 12, 2001 - 10:38 PM


White Bros carry a slider from UFO. I don't know if it wears better or worse than stock.

  • Hick

Posted January 12, 2001 - 11:26 AM



1) Mine no longer makes noise
2) It fell off
3) I’ve gone deaf

Once the chain wears a groove in it deep enough the noise goes away. Until then the links of the chain ride on the plastic, making a spooky whine. But when the groove gets deep the chain rides on the rollers and things quiet down. It is designed to be a “self-grooving” slider (that is what they told me when I bought it).

It is expensive but I think it is worth four times the cost of any rubber replacement because I’m sure it will last at least that much longer.

I’m also sure that there must be other good alternatives to the stock POS, I just don’t know what or where. Moose might be a good bet for something like that (What is this?).

Let us know if you find anything of value.

  • dirtdad

Posted January 12, 2001 - 11:39 AM


Hick, I may end up going with the T.M.D. piece, however; all of you that use this item have me a little concerned about the stripping thread problem. I'm not familiar with what you described as your solution. Any details? Thanks for the info.

  • Hick

Posted January 12, 2001 - 03:02 PM


I lost a few screws..

I mean I lost a few fasteners on the upper rear part of the slider. The mounts screw into the arm, the original screws are self-tapping and catch on the little hole in the arm, not a lot of surface area for threads.

I’d read here how some guys used a long piece of all-thread so I tried this simple and durable fix. The holes in the swingarm (top and bottom) are aligned so you can run a long bolt (or a threaded rod) all the way through the swingarm and trim it to fit nicely. Now the threads on the rod (with loctite) are holding things together.

BTW this problem only surfaces on the TM because it is taller and the chain works the top fastener loose, the stock slider has recessed washers that the screw heads sit in (these screws are too short for the TM). The increased rigidity of the TM also helps vibrate the rear screw, I mean fastener, loose. If I were more resourceful and thorough I could probably find the properly sized self-tapping screw that would resist coming loose better. The all-thread fix is typical of the way I do things, you may prefer to simply find a large enough self-tapping screw that will not come loose so easily.

  • dirtdad

Posted January 12, 2001 - 05:43 PM


Thanks Hick, One last question on this subject. Is there enough material on the T.M.D. piece to possibly countersink the mounting hole and use the recessed (or similar) washers or would this decrease the integrity of the part? Thanks again.

  • F-Pilot

Posted January 12, 2001 - 08:19 PM


I bought one of those Moose parts, actually it may have been White Bros, looked like the picture, kinda translucent and was real pliable. It wore out twice as fast as stock! Stick with OEM or put up with the noise of the TMD one.

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  • Boit

Posted January 13, 2001 - 02:56 AM


As a side note...and forgive me if this was already mentioned, but to install the TM Design slider, the swingarm must be removed. If you decide to go the T.M.D, make this the time to lube your swingarm and linkage bearings. Why not? You already have it dismantled anyway.

  • dirtdad

Posted January 13, 2001 - 07:17 AM


Thanks Boit, I did know that you have to remove the swingarm for the install. One thing that was still making me debate the purchase, but I do need to grease that pivot point. I did read one of the Mags intalled one without removing the swingarm though. They apparently just cut the side strap off of the thing. I don't believe I'll want to do that though. I'll assume that T.M.D. designed it that way for a reason.

  • Boit

Posted January 13, 2001 - 10:35 PM


If the top fastener(s) fall out as has happened, there's nothing to prvent the chain from moving side to side. The slider provides some measure of guiding the chain along the top of the swingarm. Bedsides, getting the slider to go around the end of the arm and between a very small gap at the front sprocket would be a severe test of one's patience... :)

  • Hick

Posted January 15, 2001 - 08:04 AM


Originally posted by dirtdad:
Thanks Hick, One last question on this subject. Is there enough material on the T.M.D. piece to possibly countersink the mounting hole and use the recessed (or similar) washers or would this decrease the integrity of the part? Thanks again.

That is an excellent idea (or am I just saying that because I thought of it also?).

I considered heating a hex-nut with a torch to melt a like-shaped countersink in the rear mount so the chain couldn’t rub it loose. I do believe there is enough material, the TM slider is pretty thick, but in the end I decided not to risk weakening this mount area by making the load bearing part too thin. But the main reason is I was out of acetylene (that, like losing my biggest hammer, is not always a bad thing).

  • Scott_F

Posted January 15, 2001 - 08:19 AM


I tried countersinking the bronze bushing so I could use a flathead bolt. That bushing material was tough to countersink. It worked out ok, but the bolts will still loosen due to vibration. When the bolts fall out, the bushings can fall out. If you lose the bushings, good luck trying to get new ones. TM did not reply to my phone message requesting new ones. I ended up buying aluminum spacers instead.

  • dirtdad

Posted January 15, 2001 - 10:28 PM


Guys, I just ordered the slide and rollers.
I already have a Fredette guide and block.
After mentioning some of my concerns about their part (based on opinions/experience here) he said that their part is constantly evolving. Based on feed-back they have made changes to supposedly quiet it down somewhat.
Also have made some changes to mounting and hardware. I'll let you all know how it works. Thanks again for the feedback. BTW, I did not know this but the chain guide TM sells replaces the whole stock guide and block. Just a one piece plastic part. Guide and block all in one. Anyone have one?
Looks very trick.

  • Hick

Posted January 15, 2001 - 12:55 PM


Originally posted by dirtdad:
BTW, I did not know this but the chain guide TM sells replaces the whole stock guide and block. Just a one piece plastic part. Guide and block all in one. Anyone have one?
Looks very trick.

Yeah, I got the “kit,” rollers, guide and slider. I’d bent my stock one a few times, once bad enough to throw the chain, plus I was worried about the minimal extra clearance with o-ring chains. My Regina was wearing the link and pin surfaces on the aluminum part of the guide (of course it had been bent and straightened several times…)

So their guide was perfect for me since it is made of the same stuff as the slider and allows the chain to wear an appropriately sized groove and it cannot be bent. I imagine it could be broken, I can break anything, but I was told that if I did they would happily send me a new one for in exchange for the story on how I managed it. So I guess you could say they are confident in its durability.

When all this stuff was new my bike made oodles of whirring noises. I actually didn’t mind the noise at all, the only time it was really noticeable was over jumps, when your exhaust note is down but wheel is still spinning. I think the whole “kit” was around $200. I have at least 100 hours on it and everything looks to be good for at least 200 more (especially the rollers, which still look new), so I’d say it was worth it.

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