05 wr450 rebuild pics after 5 years (lots of pictures)
Posted February 04, 2011 - 10:28 PM
Posted February 05, 2011 - 04:01 PM
Posted February 10, 2011 - 03:12 AM
How did the bike run?
Posted February 10, 2011 - 08:08 AM
Unfortunately, when TT dumped that new website and went back to the old one that we liked, I lost the last 2/3 of this thread. I wish we could get that back because I had even more details in there explaining some things I did wrong and did right. For example, when tightening the flywheel bolt, you can get a wrench over the the groves on the spindle to lock it into place. that worked a whole lot better than holding the rear brake. But the penny was a perfect trick.
I did run into some problems as well and I had documented them in detail. Nothing major, just self induced problems.
I was getting inconsistend readings on the valves when I would reshim. I think its important to turn the engine over a few times to get things to settle once you put the new shims in. WHen I did that, I started getting more consistent readings. I ended up shimming two valves which were still in spec but near the outer part of the range. One intake and one exhaust were tightening just a little.
Next time, I won't wait 5 years to do a top end.
Next time, I'll go big bore for sure. Big bikes need big power. I am slow and need the low end grunt.
next time, I go with Stage 1 cams
Next time, I'll inspect the piston before automatically replacing it. I did replace it, but it just didn't need to be replaced according to the measurements I took. But I'll do new rings every year.
Next time, it will only take me about 4 hours to get it all apart and back together again.
Bike runs perfect! It ran so good in fact, that I recently sold my perfectly running, fully setup, light and nimble yz250 race bike for no other reason than it didn't ride as nice as my wr450.
Everyone should rebuild their bikes without fear and hesitation.
Edited by mauricedorris, February 10, 2011 - 12:14 PM.
Posted February 10, 2011 - 11:28 AM
Posted February 10, 2011 - 12:12 PM
Spark plug is easy to access without taking head off or even valve cover. You need a 3/8 ratchet, shorty extension, spark plug socket, and telescoping magnet. Drop the socket in the hole, then attach the shorty extension, then the ratchet. After you have turned it out, in order to remove it, take off the ratchet, then pull up the extension and remove it from the socket allowing the socket to fall back in the hole. Then fetch the socket and spark plug out with your magnet. Easy Peasy, yams are a breezy.
I've got all the right tools. But the spark plug was seriously rusted and was taking considerable torque to try to loosen it. I felt it was about to snap. I actually rode the bike for almost a year with that rusted sparky stuck in there. It gave me problems,but I eventually got it out.
Posted February 11, 2011 - 03:25 AM
Posted February 11, 2011 - 10:37 AM
Now I carry both bikes every time I go riding.
Wow, that's dedication. Good thing you have two arms.
Posted February 11, 2011 - 11:14 AM
I know what you mean about running perfect after the rebuild. I had serious head damage on my WR450 the had it sidelined for months. That gave me a good excuse to get a new KTM450 (awesome bike too). My intent was to get the WR running and sell it to offset the KTM, but after I finished all the WR work the thing just ran spectacularly and I couldn't part with it. Now I carry both bikes every time I go riding.
Funny you should say that. My wr is such fun to ride, that I decided that I didn't want to ride my perfectly setup yz250 anymore. I sold it and got a ktm 450 instead (you're right... awesome bike).
I don't carry both everytime, but I race the ktm and ride the wr for everything else. Its a good combo.
Posted February 19, 2011 - 01:01 PM
stage 1 cams?? should i ??? all mates have ktm or husaberg, but i spent time having suspension set up and yam is bike for me, easy to rebuild will seal the marriage, i `ll keep you all posted!
Posted February 21, 2011 - 12:28 PM
Posted February 21, 2011 - 04:03 PM
Okay, stripped her down today, easy!!! yep rings letting by, build up of burnt oil on piston crown and head, bore and piston in excellent condition, just awaiting parts by post.
Yep... very easy.
These WR's are great bikes.
Now that I have my engine running right, I need to do a cosmetic rebuild on it. It runs like it has about 500 miles on it (it does) but looks like it has 8000 miles on it.
that will be the next set of pics I post, which will be the frame up restoration.
Posted February 23, 2011 - 06:10 AM
also changed all the chain guides and rollers.
half way thru so not worth starting pics, plus against the clock as i want to ride on sunday.
but to be honest this is a pleasure to work on, so easy.
Posted February 23, 2011 - 08:45 AM
haha i broke out the turd polish too, touch up the paintwork with pj1, clean all the ally, got new decals on order.
Also changed all the chain guides and rollers.
Half way thru so not worth starting pics, plus against the clock as i want to ride on sunday.
But to be honest this is a pleasure to work on, so easy.
is that stuff good enough to save me the trouble of a complete teardown?
Posted February 23, 2011 - 01:22 PM
i decided today after heavy evaluation to strip down completely, its not much more work from where im at and screw the ride on sunday.
will post up some pics of my collection of bits!!!!
Posted April 03, 2011 - 12:53 PM
Posted April 04, 2011 - 08:03 AM
Hey Maurice, did you have any problems getting the cam chain over the cam gears, i assume you didn't because you didn't mention anything at all about that part of your reassembly. I'm having major trouble, i think i bent the metal/plastic guide on the front when i took it apart so that was my first problem so i got that bent back and the chain won't go over the cams, it almost is like its too small but it is the right part number. I guess i'm asking if it should be much easier than that? Was it relatively loose when going on because i thought i remember it being that when disassembling it. If anyone else has any experiance in this feel free to chime in also, Thanks
It sucks that I lost so much of the post when TT switched back to its old format. I had shown that very thing.
In order to get the cam chain over the gears, you will have to remove the cam caps off of both cams. Then tilt the cams forward a bit and the the chain around the gear. Once they are in place, you then have to push both cams back in place at the same time. They will squeeze and settle in.
Then you can put the caps back on.
Don't forget to spin the engine a few times before checking your valve clearance.
Keep zip ties handy so you