YZ426 Tips



50 replies to this topic
  • mikeolichney

Posted January 17, 2001 - 07:04 PM

#41

I got my 01 426 from the Great Outdoor Store, I live in CO and shipping was $470. I saved about $500 to $1000 over buying it locally. If you have read any of the previous posts about plug fouling you will see my story. I dont blame the GOS for my predicament, but they couldn't help me out either, being many states away. After a carb swap and and CDI swap it now runs well. But I DNFed two HS in our 5 race series and put up with alot of frustration. My longtime dealer did very little to help, despite having bought bikes from him in the past. The told me that they needed a backordered needle to fix it, and until they got a ship date from Yamaha, they could not help me (Bullshit). I guess they figured since I wasn't loyal he did not owe me anything. I found another dealer who swapped parts for me until they got it running, they were awesome about helping me with very expensive parts swaps (thanks Gib at Twin Peaks). I am going to buy a WR250F from them because I know I can count on them to sort out any problems. I would have paid an additional $1000 not to have had the problems (although I realize buying locally does not mean the problems won't happen, just increases your chance of getting them taken care of promply and cost free). Something for you to think about.

  • Odie

Posted January 18, 2001 - 05:51 AM

#42

Thanks to all for the replies. You guys are by far the most helpful group I've ever stumbled across.

I am bringing home that '00 426. I have to, I've inspected the bike with a magnifying glass and it appears to be barely used. Besides, I can keep the $1500 in reserve just in case something pops up. And I'm buying it from a local dealer that I've done a lot of business with - I know, I know - sometimes that don't mean squat.

Only one other problem - it's the 18" of this damn white stuff on the ground. And 10" more coming this weekend. It freakin' figures. Oh well, back to the PlayStation 2.

Johnatbnsf,
$5299???? Anyway - good luck with the new ride.

Odie

  • MrMXer

Posted January 22, 2001 - 02:05 AM

#43

Hey Odie.. You could grab yourself a wheel and do some N3 Sim racing. We run a league for snowbound tech's. check it out at www.eagle-racing.com

  • Odie

Posted February 04, 2001 - 04:34 PM

#44

Well, I got her. Brought home the '00 426 Saturday. This is one bad ass ride. I've been able to cold start on the 1st kick, hot start on 1st kick, 1 kick start after several stalls. I even layed her on her side (to imitate a fall) - 1 kick. Granted, this is all in my driveway - real world riding will probably bring different results. I've only been able to rip her up & down the street - some weird looks from the neighbors. They'll get over it. This bike really puts the power down. It's too early to tell but the clutch seems a little grabby.I'll have to check some other posts regarding this. Clutch action isn't anything like my 2 strokes. I don't know - it's probably me. :) Any pointers anyone? Now I gotta go shopping! :)If I can only find that stash I hid from the old lady. Once again - thanks to all.

  • motoman393

Posted February 05, 2001 - 01:24 PM

#45

The clutch will seem grabby coming off a 2 stroke...but you also dont have to use the clutch every turn either (like a 2 stroke) the only time my clutch "fades" and gets really hot and doesnt work very good, is after 3-5 practice starts...so after 3 or so starts ride a couple of laps to let it cool down! Have fun on your new ride!

Garrett

------------------
I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!
Friendswood, TX

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • hambone

Posted February 05, 2001 - 07:17 PM

#46

I have a 'oo YZ426. I just odered a Fastline front brake line. Well, when I got it, I opened the package and set the package of washers (or possibly bolts) down. The problem is I don't know where. So I'm missing the washers/bolts and possibly the instructions. Can somebody let me know exactly what I need. All I have is the brake line (blue CR style). Can I use the stock washers. I've heard about some type of bajo bolt but I don't remember seeing any bolt in the package. Also any tips on the install.

  • spodeboy

Posted February 05, 2001 - 09:34 PM

#47

After 15 years on a 2 stroke here's my advice.
*******************************************

1). Always be in 1 gear up from what you're used to, until you're 100% familiar.

2). Athough the 4-strokes have a natural arc when jumping, you still may need the use of your rear brake to adjust the attitude of your machine. Always pull in the clutch + small tight rev + tap the rear brake. In that order quickly. It works perfectly in that order. You WILL forget to do the first two and pay dearly for it. So practice, practice, practice it!

3). Never let off after establishing your take off speed on big jumps. You will loose needed speed from compression braking, of which you will not make up for with a throttle blip at the lip. I learned this one the hard way, costing me a broken heel, tibia, fibula, and majorly torn tendons and ligiments in my ankle. Go here to see video.(www.ask-tom.com) download the GoBig video.

4). Ram it into the corners harder than you're used to. With the braking you are familiar to, and the added compression braking, you will stop on a dime and give 9 cents change, then dump the clutch and scatter the horizon with terrafirma. Or leave it in 3rd, slip the clutch + drag the rear brake a little, and sling shot way out front of the pack!

5).Get a white bros R-series pipe and header combo. No matter where you are on the track, all 2 smokes will be sure you're right behind them. Instead of over reving to intimidate(common on 2 smokes), use the low end of the power band and growl them into submission.They will have nightmares of T-rex's

6).Stop working out and training so much. You can, and will, ride the machine of the future, harder, faster, and longer with less effort.

7).When taking off before the clutch is a little warm, slip it longer than you're used to. Otherwise you'll suprize yourself with a cough and dead engine. Lots-o-compression.

8). Change the oil after the very first break-in period. Don't be freaked when you see how many chunks end up in your filter. That's normal, and it slowly dissapears as the tranny and engine are broken in.

9). After completely draining your oil. Dump in 1.7L or 1700cc exactly. Cap it off and forget it. It's correct. Trust me. You will notice a little over flow in hot conditions. No biggie. If you change the oil regularly, it will be fine.

10). Keep up the maintance on your spokes. I think that the rims, even being Excels, dent easily. At least that's been my experience.

11). When you come up on a whoop section, Pin it! The stock suspension is awesome. It will float accross the top as if you where Jeremy himself. (Or maybe Charmicheal now ?)

12).Start spending much more time on your PC playing MCM2. You'll find that you'll have much more time on your hands, since you don't have to mix gas and oil anymore!

13).Ever wanted to wheelie like the late Doug Domokos? Well get ready, you now can and will. It wheelies with little or no effort, for miles!

14). Be prepared to be kicking your self for another couple of years. "Why didn't I do this sooner"?

I have tons more, but in the interest of the forum, I'll chop my throttle so to speak.
-- :cool:Later,

------------------
In a race, lead or get out of the way. In life, go in the opposite direction of the masses.

[This message has been edited by spodeboy (edited 02-05-2001).]

  • Boit

Posted February 07, 2001 - 12:45 PM

#48

Hambone: I also have that brakeline. The only other parts that came with the line is a set of replacement copper washers. I reused the stock washers and kept the new ones as spares. You will reuse the stock banjo bolts, the new line does NOT come with new ones....not needed. What the instructions do not say is that the purple end goes on the bottom(caliper end) and that you should put the purple to black juncture centered in the CR style clamp. In other words, the black outer sheath should enter the clamp from the top, and the purple sheath should be what extends from the bottom of the clamp down to the caliper mount. If you don't clamp it this way, you can't get it tight enough to securely hold the line and it will slide around get snagged on the clamp edges and fray the sheath.

[This message has been edited by Boit (edited 02-07-2001).]

  • hambone

Posted February 08, 2001 - 05:07 AM

#49

Boit, thanks for your help. I tore my house upside down looking for those washers. Last night I was working on my bike and I was going to put the front brake line on, luckly I compaired the length with the stock line before I ripped into it. They're the same length. I wanted the CR style. So now I have to reorder it. This may sound stuppid but is your Fastline yamaha specific or is it for a honda. Thanks for your reply, I apprieciate the help.

  • hambone

Posted February 08, 2001 - 06:04 AM

#50

Boit, thanks anyway, but I found what I was looking for. I've got the right brake line on its way.

  • Boit

Posted February 08, 2001 - 12:19 PM

#51

Yes, my brakeline was YZ 426 specific.





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