xr250 won't steer straight front wheel not aligned with handlebar


12 replies to this topic
  • mickmack

Posted 26 March 2010 - 03:17 PM

#1

Can't steer straight. The front wheel has always been slightly off. Originally I thought it was a crooked handlebar, but after replacing the handlebar it stilll wasn't straight. I came off the other day after going over a jump, and it immediately was much much worse.

After looking at it all I can hold the wheel and creek the forks out and into the correct position by holding the wheel with my feet, and putting force on turning the handlebars. I don't believe this could be normal. Now the question I want to know is evidently there is a part that must be broken/worn inside the shock perhaps a sleeve or something. Just wanting to know whether someone can enlighten me more on this.
It takes about two weeks to order parts here so if I knew what part it was I could order in advance that way not have the bike off the road.

The forks themselves appear straight, it is only the fact there is movement internally. Probably from one and not from the other.
The top bolts that hold the cylinders are all supertight so there is no movement there.

http://www.albaactio...nd/7/Honda.aspx
I have looked at the parts diagram for the 250r 01 model shock breakdown, however can't seem to get any idea of what it is.
15 SKU: 51432-KCE-721
PIECE, OIL LOCK (Honda Code 4820916)
This part is a sleeve that the cylinder slides inside?

Anyway any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have searched several times to see whether this issue has been dealt with before. but if it has perhaps someone could refer me to the thread.

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  • Kiffer_XR250R

Posted 26 March 2010 - 04:10 PM

#2

Can't steer straight. The front wheel has always been slightly off. Originally I thought it was a crooked handlebar, but after replacing the handlebar it stilll wasn't straight. I came off the other day after going over a jump, and it immediately was much much worse.

After looking at it all I can hold the wheel and creek the forks out and into the correct position by holding the wheel with my feet, and putting force on turning the handlebars. I don't believe this could be normal. Now the question I want to know is evidently there is a part that must be broken/worn inside the shock perhaps a sleeve or something. Just wanting to know whether someone can enlighten me more on this.
It takes about two weeks to order parts here so if I knew what part it was I could order in advance that way not have the bike off the road.

The forks themselves appear straight, it is only the fact there is movement internally. Probably from one and not from the other.
The top bolts that hold the cylinders are all supertight so there is no movement there. [COLOR="Red"]They shouldn't be super-tight. The top set should be 24 ft-lbs and the bottom set should only be 20 ft-lbs.[/COLOR]
http://www.albaactio...nd/7/Honda.aspx
I have looked at the parts diagram for the 250r 01 model shock breakdown, however can't seem to get any idea of what it is.
15 SKU: 51432-KCE-721
PIECE, OIL LOCK (Honda Code 4820916)
This part is a sleeve that the cylinder slides inside?

Anyway any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have searched several times to see whether this issue has been dealt with before. but if it has perhaps someone could refer me to the thread.


How are your wheel bearings and axle bolt? My service manuel says it might be one of these things. How are your spokes, and is your rim bent/distorted, and is it running true?

  • Trailryder42

Posted 26 March 2010 - 04:21 PM

#3

Put the bike on a stand. Loosen the top steering stem nut. Loosen the bottom triple clamp bolts, then loosen the top triple clamp bolts. Leave them just tight enough that the forks won't slide out on their own.

Now stand in front of the bike holding the wheel between your knees tightly. Grab the handlebars and turn them side to side while preventing the wheel from moving with your knees. You'll kind of feel where the forks want to center themselves.

Step back and eyeball it. Even sit the bike while it's on the stand and see if things look straighter.

Once you get it that close, take it off the stand, sit the bike and holding the front brake, bounce/compress the front suspension as much as you can several times. If everything still looks straight, re-tighten your triple clamp bolts and stem nut.

  • mickmack

Posted 27 March 2010 - 03:02 AM

#4

Kiffer problem is not the wheel.
It is apparent that their is excess wear in something in the shocks. Today I held the wheel between the knees to show some other guys and could do probably 5 degrees on the handlebar by turning it with force. You can hear the creak from inside the shock! I just have to make sure it is the 5 degrees on the left that it has to go, as then it still seems to ride straight. If there were a little movement I would understand but it is substantial.

Trailryder I will give your advise a shot, however I still think their is something out of tolerance inside the shock.

  • Trailryder42

Posted 27 March 2010 - 08:52 AM

#5

How old is this bike? Your fork tube bushings could be worn out and need replacing.

Holding the wheel between your knees and forcefully twisting the handlebar side to side with the triple clamp bolts tight and hearing some creeking is normal. The XR forks really benefit from a fork brace. It will make the bike track where you point it and prevent the forks from deflecting over rocks, roots and ruts.

You need to be careful about using the correct terminology too. They are forks, not shocks. The shock is at the rear of the bike.

  • MindBlower

Posted 28 March 2010 - 01:36 PM

#6

Put the bike on a stand. Loosen the top steering stem nut. Loosen the bottom triple clamp bolts, then loosen the top triple clamp bolts. Leave them just tight enough that the forks won't slide out on their own.

Now stand in front of the bike holding the wheel between your knees tightly. Grab the handlebars and turn them side to side while preventing the wheel from moving with your knees. You'll kind of feel where the forks want to center themselves.

Step back and eyeball it. Even sit the bike while it's on the stand and see if things look straighter.

Once you get it that close, take it off the stand, sit the bike and holding the front brake, bounce/compress the front suspension as much as you can several times. If everything still looks straight, re-tighten your triple clamp bolts and stem nut.


+1 Bet on it. :thumbsup:

  • mickmack

Posted 31 March 2010 - 03:54 AM

#7

I am about to replace fork boots and seals anyhow so makes sense to change anything else.

The bike - 2001 model xr 250. The bike hadn't been looked after so lots of things have needed replacing.

If you happen to figure out which bushing you are meaning on a microfishe let me know. I had a look but couldn't figure which it could be.

  • mickmack

Posted 31 March 2010 - 03:55 AM

#8

I am about to replace fork boots and seals anyhow so makes sense to change anything else.

The bike - 2001 model xr 250. The bike hadn't been looked after so lots of things have needed replacing.

If you happen to figure out which bushing you are meaning on a microfishe let me know. I had a look but couldn't figure which it could be.

  • mickmack

Posted 31 March 2010 - 04:00 AM

#9

I did do the eyeball deal after loosening up all the braces btw.
While it still goes straight now.
There was about 5-7 degrees movement to the right (afterwards with everything clamped down) and to the left I cannot move it any further than going straight.
The movement is only very very slight in the left shock and 80% in the right shock which leads me to think there is something wrong inside.

Any idea for the bushing or part no that causes it?

  • thecirque

Posted 31 March 2010 - 07:03 AM

#10

I had a wheel laced up once that didn't havent the right amount of hub offset. It looked crooked on the bike. The hub was moved sllightly to one side.

there is a TON of adjustment in the upper and lower triple clams too. I know this has already been covered above, but It's amazing how much tweaking you can do there.

  • jeff03064

Posted 31 March 2010 - 09:30 AM

#11

I had a similar situation. Had a slow speed crash and the forks had twisted a little in the triple clamp. Not real bad but just enough that it was really annoying having to ride with the handlbars cock eyed. (They weren't bent... just twisted). Anyway, I tried Trailryder42's suggestion of loosening the triple clamps, bracing the tire with your knees and twisting the bars and it worked OK but after several attempts I just couldn't get it straight. Figured there had to be a better way. I went and got two 10' long 2"x4"'s and a couple of large "C" clamps. With the bike on the ground I put one 2x4 on each side of the bike. I then clamped the 2x4's together pinching the front and rear tires in the process. This will keep your front and rear tire aligned. I then loosened the triple clamp bolts and twisted until everything looked straight. (I did use my knees to help brace the tire while doing this so I wouldn't put undo stress on something) Then I would measure from the tip of the bars to the rear seat bolt to see if everything really was straight. Obviously if your bars are bent the measurement part won't work. Anyway, this process worked great for me. Good luck.

  • Trailryder42

Posted 31 March 2010 - 10:56 AM

#12

I would inspect/replace items 10 and 12 in the suspension diagram.

Posted Image

If you happen to figure out which bushing you are meaning on a microfishe let me know. I had a look but couldn't figure which it could be.



  • mickmack

Posted 31 March 2010 - 11:54 AM

#13

Thanks, for the advise from those that have experience.
I haven't had the bike that long so still learning.
Really appreciate.

Michael.





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