JRM said:

The Briggs and Straton part number is now 795161 for that test kit.  How does removing the ethanol and water from 87 octane pump gas increase the octane?  Isn't that one of the reasons that ethanol is added, to boost the octane?  How do you know when to stop the draining process?

You can take race fuel like 110 octane and add it to 87 pump gas as a octane booster.
Just do some math to figure it out.

Good point, the octane does drop 2 points once the Ethonal is removed, I start with super unleaded and your correct, its prob around 90 octane when im done- still good for most stock engines, Use a clear jug- after shakeing let sit for a few hours, the water/fuel seperation line is very noticable and i put a pvc ball valve in to aid in the draining process. I measure how much water i put in and make sure to drain just a bit more as the ethonal does add to the ammount.
I did however find a marine fuel doc that sells clear 92 octane grade unleaded, but i face yet another challange- oregon law ban's carrying fuel cans on the doc over water so the fuel doc will not sell to me
So how far should I go in finding clear fuel, load 15 cans onto my friends bass boat to shuddle it the few hundred feet back to the boat trailer?

also -two octane fuels, say 91- the one w/o ethanol has a higher btu rating per gallon , fyi

JRM said:

Take a wheel barrow to hold your gas can....

What do you use to strain the fuel and water jrm if you dont mind me asking?

Eazy Peazy Process is to just add stabil or seafoam to your can and fill your bike, then use the gas for the mower if you're not riding enough.  Always drain your carb at the end of a ride - I use a plastic pan to catch the run off and pour it back in the tank if I didn't pick up any dirt while draining.

I like coming home after a ride and and leaving a low tank so that next time I go out I mostly fill it up using fresh gas.

Just never leave gas in the float bowl and you'll solve 99% of all fuel issues.  Or ride every day!

I recently switched from running a premium unleaded(with stabil for ethanol) to a 50/50 mix of 87 octane zero ethanol,with 100 LL Avgas(available at any airport). I get the octane I need, ethanol issues I don't. Avgas has additives that may make slightly less power than race gas, but I have not noticed any difference(old and slow).

I agree with draining the carb at then end of every ride, however not filling your tank at the end of the ride may end up causing water issues.  If you leave the tank partially full, it allows for the possibility of additional water accumulation thru condensation. (Ethanol loves water) Thats why boat mechanics will always tell you to fill your tank before storage.  More gas in the tank means less room for condensation and water accumulation.  Just my 2 cents.

You might be right about  a full tank having less chance for condensate, but I wonder if that is still an issue now that all the tanks are plastic vs metal.

Cypress John, on 25 June 2012 - 07:05 PM, said:

It's far worse with plastic tanks.

That's wierd.  Here in  eastern Idaho, the only ethanol free fuel I've ever seen has been the premium.   I've never seen it in regular.  Things must be different up there in the north idaho. I've heard ethanol won't hurt your engine if you are burning right through it.  You just don't won't the bike to sit with it in it for more than a couple of weeks. (at most).

I don`t know about fuel blends. But were i live my 450 i would have a hard starting , till i added octane booter to my gas. Befor i added it i would kick it 5 , to 10 time , cold or hot. Now with the octane booter , 1 too 3 kicks , and it fires up. So now i`m not half as tired , and can ride a little longer lol.

If I lived in Hawaii I think I'd get 55gal (54, actually) drums of VP 100!

That way ya know you've got good gas.

I'm jus' sayin'...

papawhiskey1, on 25 May 2012 - 06:53 PM, said:

I do this only when I go racing, but I use 91 and 110 AVGAS mix (70/30).  I'm at the airport a lot, so it's pretty easy to fill up.  Bike runs a lot better and smells delicious!