Noise & timing help for new guy!

2 replies to this topic
  • rep

Posted December 19, 2000 - 09:12 PM


How about a few more opinions on whether to locktite or otherwise chemically secure any or all of counter balance drive gear, key, keyway (seems loose), crankshaft, main gear, splines (also loose), clutch housing and or main transmission axle on my 2000 WR 400? Will I ever be able to get it apart again?

Tiny bit of play on CB gear when tightened. Plan to install new key (edges don't seem very rounded though) and lockwashers. Seems like a considerable amount of play between crank splines and main gear prior to tightening.

Any info on the likelyhood the mangled lockwasher on the main gear nut was done at the factory or evidence my 225 mile bike was not as new as I was lead to believe when I bought it from the dealer? Blue residue on crankshaft under cb gear done at the factory?

As to the change to YZ timing, is the exhaust cam advanced or retarded? Seems I read it needs to be advanced. Wouldn't turning cam one tooth to the rear (change from 13 to 12 pins between marks) make the exhaust valves open later (retard). Not arguing mind you, just can't quite get my mind around the concept.

Sanks fellers,


2000 WR 400 FM
2000 XR 400 R
1972 XR-750 & 1972 XRTT
1970 Husqvarna 250
1966 Honda 450

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  • Le_Racer

Posted December 20, 2000 - 06:28 AM


The idea to retard the timing of the exhaust cam is to get more overlap.

  • Hick

Posted December 20, 2000 - 07:12 AM



If the lock washer is mangled you need to check the oil seal that sits in the right cover and fits over the crankshaft end. The washer may have damaged this seal and without it you will lose oil pressure to your bottom end. You should use a new lock washer when you replace the key.

My bike also chewed up this washer so my guess is that this did not happen at the factory. I think my clutch basket did the chewing. Mine had a rust colored substance on the shaft (maybe it was blue originally), I have no idea what this is, I’m guessing some kind of assembly lube or locking agent.

IMO blue loctite is a good idea on the main shaft threads, I doubt you’ll have any problems getting it back off.

There is a link to a good explanation of the YZ timing thing in the tech section (click here).

Hope this helps!

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