WR 400 Let the Rebuild begin....Finally!


8 replies to this topic
  • motodiver13

Posted March 05, 2010 - 09:27 AM

#1

So, I have finally amassed all of my parts to start my complete rebuild.. I'll be pressing in the case bearings on Sat. Does anyone have some tips and tricks as I go along that might provide helpful. A good aorder of operations, etc... I have a book but sometimes you have to skip around. I appreciate all the help you guys have offered in the past, so keep it coming.:thumbsup: Thanks

  • pablo83

Posted March 06, 2010 - 11:01 PM

#2

Where in CO are you? I'm in Woodland Park (just west of CO Springs). If you're close, you're welcome to borrow tools (alt puller, clutch clamp etc). I also have a set of valve shims if you want to trade some out for different sizes.

If you're removing all the components from both of the cases, I don't know if there's a "best" way to tear the engine apart. Just take lots of pics so you have something to reference when you put it back together. If you're just trying to split the cases with a minimal amount of work, remove the components from the alt side (left side).

  • motodiver13

Posted March 07, 2010 - 11:58 AM

#3

Pablo, I am straight over the hill in Monument. I have started re-assembling the motor.

I did the case yesterday. I was bolting in the shhift drum stopper arm and hade a torque wrench failure ( I think there was a little thread lock on the bolt flange) and snapped the bolt in the case:banghead: Al was going very smoothly untill then.

I wasn't sure of a good order to go with in re-assembling the clutch side but I think I'm figureing it out. I started with the balancer, then shit mechanism (but had the oops) then oil pump, and idler gear and kick start and clutch.

So, hopefully I can get the broken bolt out without too much headach.

If I need anything I'll give you a shout. Thanks for the offer.

  • pablo83

Posted March 07, 2010 - 01:48 PM

#4

I was bolting in the shift drum stopper arm and snapped the bolt in the case.


No good. If you can't get it out you're welcome to bring it up here and we can try and heat it or weld a stud to the bolt to pull it out. I also have a set of easy-outs ( but I've found them to be pretty worthless), and taps and heli-coils.

When you get her running again, bring her up and we'll go ride 717.

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  • motodiver13

Posted March 07, 2010 - 04:44 PM

#5

I have a buddy with a machine shop across the street from where I work so I'll take it over there and see what kind of damage we can do. I'll come ride for sure. Do you need a plate to ride 717?

  • chevy power

Posted March 07, 2010 - 05:33 PM

#6

On an xr 100 I built I put the engine cases in the oven heated them to about 200 and put the bearings in the freezer, they will drop right in. Dry ice helps but most people dont have dry ice laying around. Dont heat the cases with any flame.

  • motodiver13

Posted March 07, 2010 - 08:38 PM

#7

Thanks Chevy, I did the dry ice, worked perfectly.

  • pablo83

Posted March 07, 2010 - 08:40 PM

#8

Do you need a plate to ride 717?


Nope.

  • motodiver13

Posted March 11, 2010 - 08:00 PM

#9

Pablo, I am straight over the hill in Monument. I have started re-assembling the motor.

I did the case yesterday. I was bolting in the shhift drum stopper arm and hade a torque wrench failure ( I think there was a little thread lock on the bolt flange) and snapped the bolt in the case:banghead: Al was going very smoothly untill then.

I wasn't sure of a good order to go with in re-assembling the clutch side but I think I'm figureing it out. I started with the balancer, then shit mechanism (but had the oops) then oil pump, and idler gear and kick start and clutch.

So, hopefully I can get the broken bolt out without too much headach.

If I need anything I'll give you a shout. Thanks for the offer.


Got the bolt out:banana: Pretty easy, put it onm the mill and easy out did the trick. New bolt will be in Tues. I can keep going once its in.




 
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