Oil Change Procedure: '98-'02 Model 400's & 426's


10 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2010 - 02:32 PM

#1

Start by downloading a manual here:

http://www.yamaha-mo...ice/manuals.jsp
...or here:
http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

You should also understand that the motorcycle has a dry sump oiling system, wherein the oil is stored in separate area, the frame in this case, and pumped to the lube points, then picked up and returned to the tank. Thus, the dip stick is located on the top of the frame backbone, between the steering head and the fuel tank. The engine must have been run within 10 minutes prior to checking the level, or the oil will have begun to drain back into the crankcases, and your reading will be inaccurate.

Read also:

http://www.thumperta...903#post5221903

Simplified oil change procedure:

Do Not remove the oil line or frame screen. You may want to inspect it once, but it's mostly unnecessary.


  • Start and run the engine for about one minute and shut down.
  • Turn the front wheel to one side, and remove the drain bolt from the bottom of the square frame down tube. HOLD A PAN UP CLOSE to the drain port! Replace the bolt.
  • Remove the oil filter cover and replace the filter (or clean it if using stainless mesh. do not reuse brass mesh filters) Replace the cover.
  • Remove the drain bolt from the crankcase, located on the bottom of the transmission, angled toward the rear. Replace when it finishes draining.
  • Refill the system at the dip stick/oil fill on the frame. Refill with 1.6 liter if you changed the filter, or 1.5 liter if you didn't :thumbsup:
  • Start the engine, run for one minute, shut down and check your oil level.
Torque wrenches should not be necessary if you have a reasonable level of skill and common sense.

You should also read:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=575367

and:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=634724

...and just generally check out the whole Common Threads sticky:
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=447989

  • 426 NOOB

Posted March 02, 2010 - 03:06 PM

#2

Start by downloading a manual here:

http://www.yamaha-mo...ice/manuals.jsp
...or here:
http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

You should also understand that the motorcycle has a dry sump oiling system, wherein the oil is stored in separate area, the frame in this case, and pumped to the lube points, then picked up and returned to the tank. Thus, the dip stick is located on the top of the frame backbone, between the steering head and the fuel tank. The engine must have been run within 10 minutes prior to checking the level, or the oil will have begun to drain back into the crankcases, and your reading will be inaccurate.

Read also:

http://www.thumperta...903#post5221903

Simplified oil change procedure:

Do Not remove the oil line or frame screen. You may want to inspect it once, but it's mostly unnecessary.


  • Start and run the engine for about one minute and shut down.
  • Turn the front wheel to one side, and remove the drain bolt from the bottom of the square frame down tube. HOLD A PAN UP CLOSE to the drain port! Replace the bolt.
  • Remove the oil filter cover and replace the filter (or clean it if using stainless mesh. do not reuse brass mesh filters) Replace the cover.
  • Remove the drain bolt from the crankcase, located on the bottom of the transmission, angled toward the rear. Replace when it finishes draining.
  • Refill the system at the dip stick/oil fill on the frame. Refill with 1.6 liter if you changed the filter, or 1.5 liter if you didn't :ride:
  • Start the engine, run for one minute, shut down and check your oil level.
Torque wrenches should not be necessary if you have a reasonable level of skill and common sense.

You should also read:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=575367

and:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=634724

...and just generally check out the whole Common Threads sticky:
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=447989

very nice. This question gets asked so much. Great writeup. only thing i would add is when changing oil filter to lean the bike up against something on the shifter side so that it is almost on its side, that way you dont make a mess out of the side of the case when you pull the cover.:thumbsup:

  • umu24013

Posted March 02, 2010 - 07:06 PM

#3

For the '02, they decreased the oil capacity by 200cc to reduce weight.


'98-'01 400/426

Oil capacity
Engine oil
Periodic oil change 1.5 L (1.32 Imp qt, 1.59 US qt)
With oil filter replacement 1.6 L (1.41 Imp qt, 1.69 US qt)
Total amount 1.7 L (1.50 Imp qt, 1.80 US qt)


'02 426

Oil capacity
Engine oil
Periodic oil change 1.3 L (1.14 Imp qt, 1.37 US qt)
With oil filter replacement 1.4 L (1.23 Imp qt, 1.48 US qt)
Total amount 1.5 L (1.32 Imp qt, 1.59 US qt)

  • grayracer513

Posted March 02, 2010 - 07:49 PM

#4

very nice. This question gets asked so much. Great writeup. only thing i would add is when changing oil filter to lean the bike up against something on the shifter side so that it is almost on its side, that way you dont make a mess out of the side of the case when you pull the cover.:thumbsup:

Actually, I have a triangle stand made to fit the brake side of the rear axle so that I can lean it over to the right side. This allows the bulk of the oil from the filter well to spill out and away from the case, rather than run down the side of it. A shop towel wedged below the cover catches the drool nicely. I've tried it both ways, and it's less messy leaning right than left.

  • corndog

Posted July 24, 2012 - 06:53 PM

#5

Grayracer, I've read some folks like to drain the main 17mm plug and then remove the hydraulic line on the right side (behind the guard) which comes from the bottom of the frame. Do you see any issues with that? I think when I read this, it was for a 250f, not sure if there is a significant difference with the 400/426?

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  • grayracer513

Posted July 24, 2012 - 07:50 PM

#6

Grayracer, I've read some folks like to drain the main 17mm plug and then remove the hydraulic line on the right side (behind the guard) which comes from the bottom of the frame. Do you see any issues with that? I think when I read this, it was for a 250f, not sure if there is a significant difference with the 400/426?


Disconnecting the feed line doesn't do anything that using the drain plug in the frame (which is a 12, not a 17) doesn't do outside of drain an extra teaspoon of oil. Draining from the line does take longer to drain, make a bigger mess, and unnecessarily stress the fitting on the line, the threads in the case, and the seal ring. I can't recommend it.

  • corndog

Posted July 24, 2012 - 08:02 PM

#7

I was referring to the plug at the bottom of the cases as being a 17mm, but I recognize that you must drain from at least two locations. I just gave it a go and I don't think there was any additional fluid in the motor, so I agree the only oil benefit is what's in the line (the teaspoon). I think if you use a triangle on the right side, there won't be any difference in mess, but yes it is slower, probably by 1/4 or more. The o-ring shouldn't be an issue, same as any other o-ring, but perhaps yet another item that should be kept in inventory if you go that route. Those hoses do look ratty, premature cracking/failure wouldn't surprise me. Anyway, I was curious if there are any major pitfalls, sounds like there aren't any, but it's less efficient overall. I have an oil/carb/coolant catch can mounted in front of the frame drain bolt, so that will be more messy for me because I definitely don't want to R&R that thing each change, though I can see your posted method is better (and waaaaaay better than what's in the manual!). Alrighty, thanks for your efforts here in this forum, I see your name all over the nice procedures. :)

  • grayracer513

Posted July 24, 2012 - 08:08 PM

#8

When you crack the feed line while draining the oil for the 47th time two days before your big ride, it will be a major pitfall. Just sayin'...

  • corndog

Posted July 24, 2012 - 08:33 PM

#9

Hahaha, you're right about that! Doesn't take much to ruin your day. Heck, one trip was ruined just because I bumped the fuel line inlet and it decided that was the last time it was going to move without puking fuel all over the place. :)

  • zaxcar1

Posted May 24, 2013 - 05:19 PM

#10

its been a while since i did a oil change to her, and the dult at the dealer told me 2.75qt well that was off by a little

  • Mike in OK

Posted June 15, 2014 - 06:05 PM

#11

That's right, it's been so long since i had the 426 that I forgot that the dipstick was up by the tank. I knew there was one somewhere.





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