Getting fork tubes re-coated


16 replies to this topic
  • gbwilliams

Posted February 27, 2010 - 10:54 AM

#1

I have an 05 kx 250. I've changed the seals 500 times, sanded down plenty of knicks and everything but their is one knick in their that is really deep. I have been sanding it and have started to see slightly different colors than the outer coating. I know I need to stop sanding but now I know I need a new tube ($274.67) or recoating. How much is it and who does it?

Thanks
Greg

  • karlace

Posted February 27, 2010 - 11:04 AM

#2

sounds like you got a price for a fork tube complete with foot. you can buy just the inner tube and have your foot put onto a new tube. over here the inner tube works out about have the price of inner tube complete. when the tubes get coated they dont repair chips or scratches in the chrome. hope this helps

  • pimpin_my_450

Posted February 27, 2010 - 11:16 AM

#3

Extremeion does the DLC coatings for most suspension shops (rg3, mb1....) so if you can get the wheel lugs off the forks, PITA, you can send it directly to them. They charged me 300 bucks for both fork tubes and the shock shaft and 30 bucks for shipping. If you can't take the lugs off you will have to have a suspension company do it for you, find a local shop to do it for a cheaper price.

http://www.extremeio.../motorcyle.html

  • gbwilliams

Posted February 27, 2010 - 01:06 PM

#4

Extremeion does the DLC coatings for most suspension shops (rg3, mb1....) so if you can get the wheel lugs off the forks, PITA, you can send it directly to them. They charged me 300 bucks for both fork tubes and the shock shaft and 30 bucks for shipping. If you can't take the lugs off you will have to have a suspension company do it for you, find a local shop to do it for a cheaper price.

http://www.extremeio.../motorcyle.html


did they know the exact end measurement that the fork tube is? Also will the dlc coating fill in knicks?

  • pdivizzle0112

Posted February 27, 2010 - 01:24 PM

#5

i feel your pain...i just had to order a new left side fork tube..that was 230 bucks plus taxes..plus 160 for the labor..plus fork rebuild kit..55.00..plus oil which is like 18 bucks..oh gosh makes me hurt to think about it

  • mxbundy2

Posted February 27, 2010 - 01:27 PM

#6

I have an 05 kx 250. I've changed the seals 500 times, sanded down plenty of knicks and everything but their is one knick in their that is really deep. I have been sanding it and have started to see slightly different colors than the outer coating. I know I need to stop sanding but now I know I need a new tube ($274.67) or recoating. How much is it and who does it?

Thanks
Greg


I think what you need is to have the tube re-hard chromed. I don't know what part of Ca. you live in but there is a place in Ontario Ca. called Gary's grinding.
They will center less grind your chrome off your tube, re-hard chrome it and grind it back to size. Cost should be around 150.00 per tube. But you will have to remove the lugs. These guys have fixed fork tubes and shock shafts for me numerous times. Even ones totally encrusted with rust off of vintage bikes that I restore.

  • DaveJ

Posted February 28, 2010 - 12:04 PM

#7

I have an 05 kx 250. I've changed the seals 500 times, sanded down plenty of knicks and everything but their is one knick in their that is really deep. I have been sanding it and have started to see slightly different colors than the outer coating. I know I need to stop sanding but now I know I need a new tube ($274.67) or recoating. How much is it and who does it?

Thanks
Greg



Just as an option to re-coating, we can get you a new tube assembly (tube with lug) for $169 left and $149 right. KYB OEM.

Coating may be close to that, or you may also want to consider a used one.

If it helps, the lower forks are the same on the KX250 from 05 to 08. Perhaps there are some on Ebay.

By the way, if the metal under the coating is damaged or missing, that needs to be repaired first, just like body work on a car, before the coating can be applied.

  • mog

Posted February 28, 2010 - 12:48 PM

#8

as dave says the coating wont take to damaged tubes, some places wont coat old tubes now, i had some done and they made a mess of the upper tubes due to inperfections.

  • gbwilliams

Posted February 28, 2010 - 03:51 PM

#9

Ya i agree. I can sand it down more but if I go any farther I will reach the other layers of metal. As long as its smooth the coating should take right? Do they strip all the old chrome off? If so the knick would probably be gone. am i on the right track?

  • DaveJ

Posted February 28, 2010 - 04:05 PM

#10

Ya i agree. I can sand it down more but if I go any farther I will reach the other layers of metal. As long as its smooth the coating should take right? Do they strip all the old chrome off? If so the knick would probably be gone. am i on the right track?


There is the chance that you might just be able to leave it as is.

I mean....as long as it's smooth and won't dig or cut up the seal, you could just leave it.

But it's hard to tell without seeing it and knowing how bad the damage is and where it's located on the tube.

But we see plenty of beat up and sanded down tubes that hold up well.

But to answer your question, if you're talking about a re-chrome, it should stick as long as the chrome shop does their job correctly.

  • highmarker

Posted February 28, 2010 - 04:58 PM

#11

Have had hydraulic cylinder tubes re chromed, fork tube shouldn't be much different. Might call some hydraulic shops?

  • gbwilliams

Posted February 28, 2010 - 05:23 PM

#12

I've always heard that if you can feel it with your nail, it will destroy your seal. But I have also heard that if you sand through the first layer of chrome it will eventually start flaking off. So that is the point im at. It is SMOOTHer, but I dont want to keep sanding more and more. I'm sure it will start leaking again in a couple months. I guess only time will tell......

  • rks1

Posted February 28, 2010 - 08:03 PM

#13

Gary's in Ontario does a great job, but they basically charge by the area that need to be re-chromed and how deep the damaged area needs to be filled. Basically, the tube has to be ground down over the entire surface until the deepest part of the divot is gone. Then they build the chrome back up to the OE spec of the tube. For shock shafts, this is a pretty good option because of the relatively small surface area. But doing the same to fork tubes can be very expensive. It's usually cheaper to just buy a new tube.

A good DLC company won't try to coat tubes that have even the slightest imperfection. The end result is never good and DLC isn't meant to "fill" damaged spots.

  • gbwilliams

Posted March 01, 2010 - 02:37 PM

#14

There is the chance that you might just be able to leave it as is.

I mean....as long as it's smooth and won't dig or cut up the seal, you could just leave it.

But it's hard to tell without seeing it and knowing how bad the damage is and where it's located on the tube.

But we see plenty of beat up and sanded down tubes that hold up well.

But to answer your question, if you're talking about a re-chrome, it should stick as long as the chrome shop does their job correctly.


Good advice. I already put them back together. The knick is right in the mid-stroke. Right where it would hit for braking bumps and corners. So I will find out real quick if it is too bad or not.

I did find 2 used fork tubes with no knicks in the kawi 2-stroke forum for 125. I might just get those, and send them off for the DLC coating and upgrade my bike.

Thanks for all the advice!

  • mxrk

Posted December 24, 2010 - 11:53 AM

#15

I know its a late reply but there is a simple fix that can get you by for a bit or longer. Super glue!!! I had a pretty deep nick in the chrome on my bike and filled it with super glue, never had a problem after that. Take the edge down with a very fine file, use some fine grit sand paper to finish it up. Use carb cleaner to rid the nick of oil and filings, blow out with compressed air to make sure its clean and dry. Fill the nick with super glue and let it cure for as long as possible. Use some fine grit sand paper to remove the excess glue and blend to the contour of the tube and you're done! Sounds crazy but it worked for over a year of hard riding / racing and never had a problem.

  • dunn2500

Posted December 24, 2010 - 10:38 PM

#16

lots of good info and recommendations here.......i would buy a used set of 08 and up forks for kawi 4-st........already dlc'd and cheaper and faster with less hasslein the long run, plus all the internals are fresh....sometims you can find a brand new set from a parted out bike for 300 bucks............extremeion is the best,

  • teriks

Posted December 28, 2010 - 11:29 AM

#17

did they know the exact end measurement that the fork tube is? Also will the dlc coating fill in knicks?

The DLC is thin enough that you don't have to worry about a change in shaft diameter (normally 1-5 microns). It won't smooth imperfections in the base surface at all. So no, it won't fill any knicks.





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