Project KDX 220R - The Rebuild


232 replies to this topic
  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 19, 2010 - 07:37 PM

#1

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 2000 KDX 220, and I thought I would share it here. Plans for the rebuild are fairly mild.

For the chassis, all bearings will be inspected and lubed or replaced, new graphics, seat cover, maybe some fresh paint in areas, everything will be sandblasted to clean it up. Spokes checked, new brake pads, new chain and sprokets, new bars, grips and a new headlight. (Anyone know where I can get a green DHH???)

The engine will recieve a complete rebuild, top and bottom. The countershaft seal is weeping, and the left main seal is leaking a bit too. New rod, main bearings, piston, RB head and carb, and V-Force 3 reed valve to top it all off.

Today began by setting the bike up on my patented stand, and removing all the big stuff. Rear wheel, swingarm, seat, tank, shrouds, rads, blah blah blah... Swingarm bearings and all linkage bearings are ok, just need a thurough cleaning and some grease. I disassembled the rear wheel bearings, cleaned, and repacked. 2 spokes were a bit loose, need to get a spoke wrench and fix that. I'm glad I'm getting new brake pads.

After all the stuff was removed, I pulled the engine and set it on the bench, and left the chassis aside for now.

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Started by removing the reeds, one corner was chipped, maybe that's why I'm getting premix before my carb. VF3 will take care of that problem. Plug pulled too, maybe 10 hours on it. Running a touch lean with the cold weather it looks like.

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Then, I pulled the head. Was I ever in for a surprise. Looks like the imfamous 220 broken piston a few owners ago, you can see the damage to the head, and where someone tried to grind it out. Hopefully RB Designs can save this head, if not I'll grab a used one.

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One of the KIPS shafts was broken, through no fault of my own... Add another part to the list...

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Pulled the jug, and to my surprise, it had a Wiseco piston, and not only was the cylinder plating in great shape, apparently one of the PO's "Ryan" had it ported and polished!

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Edited by Slick_Nick, February 19, 2010 - 08:13 PM.


  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 19, 2010 - 07:37 PM

#2

I think I know why the jug was in such good shape however. It probably had to be replaced after the piston broke, because the bottom end had been rebuilt as well with a Hot Rods connecting rod, but why the HELL would you not replace the crank too? This bottom end has eaten some metal in its lifetime.

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Water pump looks like it had some aluminum lunch too:

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Once I put that aside, I pulled the clutch to see if it was FUBAR too. Fiber plates look OK, but the metal ones look overheated. What do you think? Also, are those stock springs? The basket is notched a little bit, I'm gonna shop for a new one.

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Overview

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And finally, took apart the KIPS. Looks bad, but it opened and closed smooth as silk. I'll clean this up like new!

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That's all for day 1, that MGD turned into many after that hahaha.

Keep checking back for updates!

Edited by Slick_Nick, February 19, 2010 - 08:19 PM.


  • brentn

Posted February 19, 2010 - 09:50 PM

#3

Yea I see what you mean about the head, some of the indents there look too deep but you never know. The clearance on the piston pin looks odd, but if the manual says it's ok...

Looks like a piece of ring got in there before many moons ago, floated around in the cylinder and around the crank shaft as well.

steel plates for the inner hub have gotten pretty hot, thus the bluing... I always thought that wet clutches can be slipped no problem.. Could be that the plates are not getting lubed well enough, you can drill a hole in each of the tabs on the basket to help with lubrication/cooling. I would drill em out for sure when you put it back together again, or you can get a new basket from hinson or something that already has much larger holes.

good luck buddy, when you get all the parts, if you want, give me a call and I could come over and watch you put it all back together again.

  • juliend

Posted February 20, 2010 - 03:16 AM

#4

Looks like great fun Nick!

FYI I don't believe your cylinder is plated, not unless they plated over that sleeve that's in there anyway....

My springs are blue like that, I assume they're stock. The metal clutch plates do look overheated. That's odd... Probably fine as long as they are not warped.

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 20, 2010 - 05:13 AM

#5

Does anyone make an aftermarket basket for the kdx? I know fredette was working on one but I don't think it ever came to fruition.

I noticed that the cylinderwas sleeved, I thought they were sleeved stock with the nikasil plating? Or is the nikasil just plated right onto the aluminum? I'm wondering if that's an oversized piston? It has some markings on the bottom. Is that sleeve steel? I guess that's a good thing is it not? You can't hone nikasil but i'll be able to hone the sleeve for a long time.

  • 250CC_ENDURO

Posted February 20, 2010 - 06:24 AM

#6

Thoses bikes stock come with electrofusion I think. Yea the plating still looks pretty good. Sweet project.

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 20, 2010 - 07:38 AM

#7

^^^Thats not a stock cylinder though. It's been sleeved. I wouldn't expect the cylinder to be okay after seeing the head and bottom end. The cylinder is probably the only part of the engine that I can reuse.

  • mxkid12

Posted February 20, 2010 - 07:58 AM

#8

Going to be a fun project my cousin loved his kdx when he had it

  • brentn

Posted February 20, 2010 - 12:12 PM

#9

Pretty sure that you can nikasil sleeved cylinders, nikasil holds up much better than just steel or aluminum by itself.

  • juliend

Posted February 20, 2010 - 06:44 PM

#10

Yes, you can nikisil plate a sleeve, and yes, it is much more durable than the liner alone. I gave my 2 cents over on KDXRider, but once again, best luck with your project!

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  • off_road_4_me

Posted February 20, 2010 - 07:01 PM

#11

is it miller time?

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 20, 2010 - 09:56 PM

#12

Well, just heard back from Ron at RB designs, he doesn't think the head is salvageable. Looks like I'll have to source one of those too. I hate how the PO thought it was okay to run the bike like this, and I (assuming everything was ok) rode it HARD. I guess it's a true testament to the KDX's strength...

Really on the sleeve vs. plating debate, I appreciate the arguments, but like you said, if it works and works well, just run it, so I will.

No one really commented on it yet, but does the porting job look well done, or half-assed? I wonder who did it? Fredette?

  • brentn

Posted February 21, 2010 - 10:13 AM

#13

This is a GREAT reason to do a top end when you buy a used bike. Even if the owner says it's already been done, has a reciept to prove it, doesn't really tell you anything factual. Take the jug off and inspect away before you start riding.

I should inspect mine just in case, probably not going to ride until Nick gets his running so I got some time :ride:

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 21, 2010 - 10:21 AM

#14

Ya man, grab a gasket kit, pull that jug and check the ring gaps. Even if it needs a piston you're making good coin now! :ride:

  • brentn

Posted February 21, 2010 - 04:47 PM

#15

Already did today, I pulled the jug for the first time and things looked pretty good. There are some small scuff marks that are not deep, can barely feel them with my finger nail, on the side of my piston. Not to sure what that's from.. Maybe a little bit of cold siezure, I don't know.
I didn't check the ring gap yet, I have my jug with the power valve taken out sitting in a vat of gasoline soaking up... Lots of spooge in there, but nothing really caked on. Very little carbon deposits as well on top of the piston, looks like it was rebuilt fairly recentley but there's no real way to tell.
When the cylinder is ready to be pulled out, I'll check it out further and go from there, but I'm re-using all of my gaskets as they are not torn and I want this back together asap instead of waiting for parts.
If the piston has to be replaced then I'll go all out and get a kit with gaskets.

When are you sending your cylinder out?
I checked out a new head for you and it looks like the thumpertalk store has it for 188$USD, if possible you could have it shipped directly to your guy with your jug. He could do the squish maybe at the same time?

  • Pork-n-Bean

Posted February 21, 2010 - 07:52 PM

#16

Great writeup & pics - thanks for posting!

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 21, 2010 - 08:31 PM

#17

Brent, I'm just gonna grab a used head off fleabay, and hone my cylinder myself. No point in sending it out for a hone. I need a new crank though, I'll probably have LRX here in town do the crank rebuild.

  • Slick_Nick

Posted February 21, 2010 - 08:49 PM

#18

Didn't get much done today, the hockey game was on (stupid USA...) Anyway, took some stuff off the frame, took it outside and hit it with the pressure washer again (I'm THAT anal.) Got into every nook and cranny I could find, this thing is spotless now. I might grab some kawi green spraybomb and touch it up, we'll see.

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Then I turned my attention to the swingarm. Took off the chain guide, and chain rub, cleaned both. The Chain guide I hit with some scotch brite to give it that "brushed" look. The chain rub was within spec, so it went back on. I'll be changing the decals to ones from a '98 model (I like the retro neon yellow) and painting the kickstand after I sandblast it.

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Onto the linkage bearings, I just greased them 2 months ago, expected them to be okay and they were. Cleaned thuroughly anyway and repacked. Old and shitty:

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New and greasy:

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The Swingarm bearings on the other hand... Nevermind, new ones are on the way.This is AFTER trying to clean them:

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That's all I really had time for, more to come tomorrow.

  • notarat

Posted February 21, 2010 - 10:08 PM

#19

Didn't get much done today, the hockey game was on (stupid USA...)


:ride: :ride:

  • tibo971

Posted February 22, 2010 - 04:34 AM

#20

Good job!





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