911...911... MAYDAY MAYDAY...EJECT... EJECT... EJECT... Oh No!
Posted May 16, 2003 - 02:19 PM
It appears that the individual that put the 10 oz flywheel on used an air wrench and severely over torqued the end of the threaded shaft. Not knowing this, I put my trusty 3/8ths socket and ratchet on the nut and began to loosen...on the second turn it snapped and off it came.
This is a crazy thought I know.....But what if I take the bike to my friendly master welder and have the new flywheel welded to the end of the shaft.....Will it work? I have ordered a new left side crank, bearing, full gasket set, and a new timing chain......But my local shop wants $575.00 for the labor and that is just not in the cards at the moment.
So what do you guy's think ? I could always race the WR for the rest of the season, but It's way too high compared to the YZ and much heavier.
Posted May 16, 2003 - 02:32 PM
That ain't right, That brought me to tears
Man tough call Kaze, honestly, What if it fails just worst case scenario
I would wait but thats me, I can afford a worst case scenario good luck
Posted May 16, 2003 - 02:37 PM
Posted May 16, 2003 - 02:45 PM
In my books you have enough thread for a nut to work. The problem is the flywheel face sticks out flush with the brake. If you can get the face of the flywheel machined with a countersink of slightly larger diameter than your socket you might have enough meat to lock the flywheel down to the tapered crank shaft. Not seeing the part I hope you can countersink 3/8" deep for the nut to grab the remaining threads fully. Forget welding it. It will brake since Yamaha makes these shafts just large enough to handle the stresses or hard riding. I hope this helps. Sorry to hear about the Monkey that did not use a torque wrench!
Posted May 16, 2003 - 02:52 PM
Posted May 16, 2003 - 03:23 PM
I think it would work even as a permanent fix if done carefully (again, hardness is an issue). I've managed to keep other machines going with similar mods. Good luck!
P.S. Be sure the end of the shaft is trimmed enough so the bolt-head/washer when fully torqued does not contact it.
Posted May 16, 2003 - 06:24 PM
Posted May 16, 2003 - 07:04 PM
These guys seem to have a fix for ya. Best of luck.
Seek and destroy the geek with the impact wrech!!!!
Posted May 17, 2003 - 02:28 AM
If you like the chassis better on the YZF, put the WR motor in it, have fun and buy some time on your solution.
Posted May 17, 2003 - 04:17 AM
Posted May 17, 2003 - 09:41 AM
Posted May 17, 2003 - 05:53 PM
You've got a few options: You can either jimmy rig it, ride the WR or swap motors.
If you want to jimmy rig it pull the good ol wire feed and weld it back to gether grind the bead down even with the metal and rethread it.
Me i would just ride the WR and just wait for the moo to get it fixed right. Or if your lucky you know someone with a metal lathe and you could have a new one made.
This is all i can say
Posted May 18, 2003 - 01:15 AM
Posted May 18, 2003 - 11:24 AM
Posted May 18, 2003 - 03:47 PM
Just my .02.
Goodluck with your decision!!
Posted May 19, 2003 - 04:12 AM
Yikes!!! Not being mechanical in any way shape or form, is there a kind or reverse stud that you might be able to screw onto the shaft? This stud would then have the same diameter threads extending out so you could use the new threads that you just screwed on????
Posted May 19, 2003 - 07:28 AM
Just my 2 cents
Posted May 19, 2003 - 12:38 PM
Posted May 20, 2003 - 04:43 AM
A good friend and a Certified Yamaha Mechanic has picked up my bike and given me what I think is an extremely fair price to R&R the motor from the bike and have it race ready by this coming Sunday.
Parts: at Cost $235.00 (Left Side Crank/Nut/Bearing/Timing Chain/Complete Gasket set)
Total for Repair: $585.00
Which includes replacing the timing chain and checking the valves (shim as necessary)
Way Cool.....My local Shop was charging $575.00 just for the labor. My buddy does Great work and has always treated me fairly.....I'm thinking Bonus on this one.