F/C also advised me to set my fork height at 4 mm measured from the top of the fork tube (not the top of the threaded cap) to the top of the upper clamp.
That is where I think i will run mine. I rode mine today and thought it didnt turn to easy around turns.
Went to the track today and my 2010 was like a whole new bike!......
i moved the tubes in the clamps to 3mm up and set the forks and suspension up by MXA settings and ran 100mm race sag with 32 static and it was so smooth on the track. Some how by setting the clickers more stiff made the bike feel softer. I would have never of thought that.
I was only 5 clicks out on compression on the forks and 7 out on rebound.
shock high speed damping was set only 1 turn out
low speed was 4 out and rebound was 8 out.
The bike turned so well and it kept the front tire right in the ruts and I railed the burms.
The only problem i had or issue with the forks were, on this one jump(triple jump) that is 90ft,...when i hit this jump the same way as i did last sunday and was clearing it good.......... is that the front end didnt seem to come up some after I left the lip (or face) of the jump.
In other words ......when i hit this jump the bike stayed flat and kida low in the front and didnt raise up any in the front and that caught me off guard and I panic reved to pic the front end up but it didnt come up any and when I landed at the end I was in the sitting position and was dreading the landing and was braceing myself but to my suprise when i landed it felt as if I never jumped.
Guess it was cause of the stiff settings on the shock and forks. I did turn the clickers on the compression on the forks 4 more out for a total of 9 out and that seemed to help the forks compress in some more on the face of this jump.
I highly reccomend the MXA settings cause they do work and like someone here said. "Gave the bike that magical feel"
Edited by CaptainKnobby, March 07, 2010 - 04:28 PM.