How do you kick start this beast?


14 replies to this topic
  • Wooten57

Posted February 05, 2010 - 05:14 PM

#1

Hey,
I just got a 99 WRF400. Still waiting on some carb parts bofore it will run right. I'm a big boy, 240 elbows, and this is my 59th bike. But it is by far the biggest kick start single I've ever had. I'm not afaid to say this thing has massive compression. First time I tried to kick it I had on sneakers and I thought I broke the arch of my foot. So now with proper boots I am still not sure how to effectively kick start it. I use the compression release to position the engine to some position, reset the kick start and nail it. Still it hits compression and stops me cold. So my question is:
1. Where do I position the engine?
2. Do I have to hold the comp release a little or try to kick it through with using the comp release?
Thanks,
Dave

  • jayh300

Posted February 05, 2010 - 07:01 PM

#2

you take the kick starter and slowly kick it until you hit a the hard spot, then pull the decomp lever and push it just past that point, release the decomp lever, reset the kick lever to the top, and give it a good long kick. on mine, it was fuel on, choke on, do not touch the throttle, in fact i would kick start it with my hand on the brake m/c to avoid twisting while kicking.. some bikes like a twist or two for prime, some don't.. there are a couple of vidoes on here about that

cold start
http://www.yamaha-mo...troke_vid_a.mpg
hot start
http://www.yamaha-mo...troke_vid_b.mpg

the best thing to do to those is put a hot cam auto decomp exhaust cam in it... makes it way easier to deal with. but Once you learn the drill, they fire right up...

be very careful starting it in tennis shoes... and never kick it with the throttle wide open (dont ask)
have fun and welcome..

jay

  • Birdy426

Posted February 05, 2010 - 07:58 PM

#3

+1 on the hotcams, and also on not toughing the throttle while you kick. My 426 likes a blip or 2 to prime it, but after than it's hands off. One thing I found on both my 426 and son's 250 is that a PowerNOW really helps starting. It really didn't do much for adding power or response down low like the add says, but it did make starting a whole bunch easier. Another plus with the autodecomp cam is it makes flaming out a thing of the past...

  • Derwud

Posted February 06, 2010 - 07:16 PM

#4

Man I miss my 99 400!!!

  • silky666

Posted February 07, 2010 - 03:25 AM

#5

Not sure if this helps.. and it probably highlights my lack of technical knowledge.. BUT:
My 99 WR400 seems to randomly have 2 'top of compression strokes'.
Some days it will hit the hard bit, then I decompress it past that bit by 'an inch' and then kick and fire.
Other days it will hit the hard spot.. I decompress past, go to give it a kick and it stops dead again.

In my simple head I do the same thing no matter:
1) Kick it down until it locks solid.
2) Pull in decompress lever and push kick start down one inch max.
3) Release decompress lever and return kick start to top.
4) Give it a good hard kick

If it locks/hits top of compression again then repeat above.

  • l_campionero

Posted February 07, 2010 - 06:36 AM

#6

....In my simple head I do the same thing no matter:
1) Kick it down until it locks solid.
2) Pull in decompress lever and push kick start down one inch max.
3) Release decompress lever and return kick start to top.
4) Give it a good hard kick

If it locks/hits top of compression again then repeat above.


What he said....
Posted Image
I've owned a BSA B50MX 500cc single, a Yamaha TT500, a DR350, a YZ400F, a WR400F, and a YZ426F. Using the above method EVERY TIME, I've never had a problem starting either of them. If you use ANY OTHER SEQUENCE of starting techniques, the bike WILL NOT START!
I could start any of them in Wal-Mart Velcro sneakers.

  • Butta

Posted February 07, 2010 - 08:16 AM

#7

Well said, 'Nero! Once you figure it out, you'll wonder what all the fuss was to begin with.

For instance, after being well versed in my '99 YZ400 starting techniques, I bought a brand spankin' new '05 YZ450. The first day at the track, and the first time I started it, it took me 45 mins to get it started. I was lost....pissed....embarassed, etc etc etc. However, once I learned that 450, I could start it in flip flops. In fact, I remember one time I went to reposition the motor by slowly moving the kickstart down so I could feel where the piston was in the stroke and the bugger fired up.....

Technique technique technique....and a little bit of verification of propper jetting...makes for an easy start every time.

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  • Wooten57

Posted February 07, 2010 - 07:53 PM

#8

Thanks for the responses, it all makes sense except for one thing.
I don't have the float chamber needle valve here yet, so cannot actually try this yet, but when I setup for the kick as described, when I kick it through the engine never makes a pass thru the NEXT compression cycle, so what does the EC do, light off the previous power stroke, which is in a vaccuum during the start phase? I can't wait for my $75 needle valve to arrive so I can confirm this. I couldn't start this bike when I bought it, but watched the previous owner start it first or second kick...and the carb was pissing gas out as fast as the tank could supply it. When I had a look at the carb I found the float NV was not moving att all - it was corroded badly. Got a new one due here late next wek. We'll see how it goes then...
-Dave

  • Butta

Posted February 08, 2010 - 11:16 AM

#9

By EC, what are you referring to? If you can kick the motor through slowly without feeling any compression, you've got bigger issues.

  • pablo83

Posted February 08, 2010 - 03:46 PM

#10

With all the corrosion in the carb there's a good chance the accelerator pump will not be working right which will cause the bike to bog on acceleration. Just something to look out for.

  • Wooten57

Posted February 08, 2010 - 08:31 PM

#11

I was refering to the Electronic Ignition "Engine Computer".

  • Wooten57

Posted February 08, 2010 - 08:34 PM

#12

Good call Pablo. The accel pump does pump. Saw it myself once I got the carb off and on the bench. Didn't bog on accel, but was flooding badly and would not idle at all.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 09, 2010 - 02:39 PM

#13

...when I setup for the kick as described, when I kick it through the engine never makes a pass thru the NEXT compression cycle, ....

Old school methodology was to find compression, use the compression release to move it past the entire compression stroke, then kick from the bottom of the power stroke. That would give you a full revolution to build momentum, and teh older engines had such heavy cranks and so much lower compression that that momentum would drive the engine past compression and fire it. You can't do that with a WRF.

Again, the way it works is, find compression, and use the compression release to move the lever 1" farther. You DO NOT want to pass TDC or the point of ignition. You simply want to move the piston 1/3 to 1/2 way up in the compression stroke. From that point, you can actually kick it through what's left of the stroke, past the ignition point where it will hopefully fire.

  • Wooten57

Posted February 09, 2010 - 07:21 PM

#14

OK thanks ya'll. I got the carb parts today and it fired up on about the 8th kick. Doesn't ide too well. Will run for a few seconds then spit one thru the carb and go out. Anyone seen this before?

  • pablo83

Posted February 10, 2010 - 06:39 PM

#15

my guess is you're running lean. But it's just a guess. try moving the mixture screw out more.




 
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