new engine pre start up
Posted 17 January 2010 - 09:31 PM
Posted 18 January 2010 - 01:25 PM
Also make damn sure you've got the oil pump bled out and if it's a fresh bore and rings mix your first tank of gas @ 100:1 just to be on the safe side during break in. AND ABSOLUTELY NO SYNTHETIC OIL ON BREAK IN!!!!!!!! Use cheap mineral based oil like valvoline 2 stoke, castrol green 2 stoke, or any of the mineral based oils from the snowmobile manufacturers. Synthetics are great for normal operation but are too slippery to properly seat your rings. Trust me I lost an entire top end on a motor due to this very thing, the rings never seated and then the pistons couldn't transfer the heat to the cylinder walls effectively, piston swells up with the heat and seizes up tighter than heck. Motor had about 12 miles on it and 3 heat cycles easily enough to seat rings normally.
Then the first time you fire it up (actually every time you ride) let it warm up to operating temp and then shut it down and let the heat "soak" into the crank and throughout the motor normally 20 minutes or so. You'd be amazed at how long your crank will remain cold. Then ride it like a rental to get your rings seated fully. Hard short bursts of WOT and acceleration, keep blipping the throttle to make sure it's always got plenty of fuel to keep the cylinders running cool, the hard loads on the motor will seat your rings as quickly as possible.
Posted 18 January 2010 - 07:33 PM
Posted 19 January 2010 - 01:31 PM
Posted 25 January 2010 - 01:47 PM
Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:21 AM
I just helped a friend do a top end on an Arctic Cat F7 due to a torn rad hose, and was amazed how much water it took! Keep an eye on those temp guages guys- these lock up quick when hot!!!