more oompphhh!



4 replies to this topic
  • Taffy

Posted October 15, 2000 - 10:11 AM

#1

lads i think you'll find it worth your while going over to the WR site & looking up a piece i've just done by the name of the above title. i would have copied it here but the "select all" & "copy" doesn't seem to work for me!

it's about more power so i think you'll like it!

Taffy

  • Boit

Posted October 15, 2000 - 11:00 AM

#2

Taffy, I remember you mentioning the Falicon cam wheels a few weeks ago. What is the general procedure for installing the Falicon components since the stock sprockets are pressed on? Did you do it yourself? On page 4-18 and step 3 of my service manual, it states; "loosen: camshaft sprocket bolts, tensioner cap bolt". Makes me wonder if originally the engineers intended to use bolts instead of pressed-on sprockets and then changed their minds at the last minute. Must be a conspiracy!

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  • Taffy

Posted October 15, 2000 - 02:29 PM

#3

i knocked the standard camwheels off without too much trouble. in the open jaws of the vice, tap the cam out of the wheel while the wheel sits atop the vice jaws.

the falicons come with I & E on them just the same. i tapped them on & put them back on the bike. easy!

i checked where on the camshaft itself, the top dot lined up with. i did it purely by eye. tapped them on & the timing was nearly spot on from the off. there is the equivelant of 2 1/2 teeth of adjustment on the slot.

sounds like yamaha saved themselves 6 yen per machine by going to pressed on!

Taffy

  • Boit

Posted October 15, 2000 - 04:58 PM

#4

Taffy, I'm a little confused. Does the Falicon component(s) consist of an adpator that the cam wheels are bolted to? If the Falicons are pressed on as well, why couldn't you just remove the stock sprockets and press them back on where you want? Is there a slot or keyway involved? I didn't think to examine my cams closely when I was adjusting the valve lash. Dang!

  • Taffy

Posted October 15, 2000 - 10:38 PM

#5

boit

as my first letter indicates, you can just pull the sprocket off & put it back on if it can be measured to a very, very fine accuracy-like .1mm!

i would imagine, given that i know how little pressure it took to get the camwheels off that it would be better to measure the timing,guage how far you want the camwheel to move around, then go have an engineer hold the cam tight & force the wheels around.

the cam timing was out by 4dg on the inlet & 8dg on the exhaust (although tests may improve this) that is degree's at the crank so you will have to turn the inlet cam exactly 2dg & the exhaust 4dg because it is half speed for the cams.

the falicon wheels (known to them as sprockets by the way) have a press on inner wheel with a shoulder for a camwheel very similar to the standard one to sit on. it has two curved slots that allow adjustment of over two teeth in distance. there are two 6mm pinch screws.

Taffy





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