Trying to understand the hub/chain logic



28 replies to this topic
  • flyinguitars

Posted October 19, 2000 - 07:27 AM

#21

Hick,
The bolts come pre-drilled or you can get a neat little vise like tool that will hold any bolt head so it can be drilled for safety wire. If I needed one, I used a machinists vice and a drill press. I didnt look at the hub bolt before I asked the question, but I suppose you could use a castle nut and cotter pin for the same end result. I should have said that safety wire is used on bolts that that arent fastened with nuts. I plan on going over my new bike tonight (lube, chain tension, safety wire, lock nuts, etc.)and I'll share any "bright" ideas or most likely dumb ideas in the next few days...By the way...this bike is a beast!!! Later,
Mike

  • YZ426_Kicks

Posted October 19, 2000 - 05:39 PM

#22

Hey Guys!

Thanks for all the great replies. Im learning a lot. Thank you! with all my heart!

Now, for the what will seem the ridiculous...

What is this "safety wire" y'all are talkin' about?

I know, I know....rookies! eeek!

Randy

  • Boit

Posted October 20, 2000 - 01:03 PM

#23

Hick: I also have the TM Design chain slider and rollers. Do you find that the bottom roller is extremely noisy under acceleration? I removed the lower shock mount to properly adjust the chain and then tested again. It's better but still noisy. It's quiet on decel. I'm embarrassed that spectators can hear the noise?

  • Hick

Posted October 20, 2000 - 02:32 PM

#24

If new I’d say the slider is definitely the source of the noise.

I’m guessing that, when new, the links in the chain rub the slider and guide and make all that racket. Once the links wear a groove deep enough for the chain rollers to make contact they take up all the friction with the plastic and the noise goes away. That’s my theory, anyway.

Once the chain made a deep enough of a groove to allow the rollers on the chain to make contact with the slider the rate of wear seemed to stop altogether. I’ve had them on for probably 6 months now and they all look like they’re good for another 6 minimum.

The bearings in my rollers did seem a bit stiff when new but they work fine now.

That slider is worth every penny, dollar for dollar the best thing I ever put on a my 426 (and boy have I put a lot of stuff on there).

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • MikeOK

Posted October 20, 2000 - 03:34 PM

#25

My chain makes a lots of racket. The stocker didn't but I added a Renthal works chain and if it gets too loose it really rattles on light to medium acceleration. Seems like I spend alot of time on this bike adjusting the chain and it's hard to get it just right. I'm still on the stock sprockets and I suspect they don't really like the Renthal chain. Next time I'm gonna try going to a tooth or two bigger on the rear...

Mike

  • Boit

Posted October 20, 2000 - 04:08 PM

#26

I went out and looked that slider and roller over in detail. After some thought, I'm convinced that the bottom guide roller is the noise culprit since it has that raised ridge down the middle that the chain rollers contact.The noise is a tat-a-tat noise so it must be from each chain roller tapping against that ridge. When under acceleration, all the slack is transferred to the bottom section of chain and as it comes around off the countershaft sprocket, it immediately has to turn upward to go over the guide roller. I think you are right hick that the noise will fade as that ridge gets worn down. Mike: my stock chain and sprockets weren't on the bike for very long to begin with. I don't recall that set as being noisy at all. I just installed a set of Sidewinders(sprocket and chain) in hopes that chain stretch will be minimized. The DID ERT chain stretched quickly. The Sidewinder rear aluminum sprocket doesn't have tapered mounting holes so the stock tapered head allen bolts wouldn't work and they didn't supply new bolts. I used flange head bolts with nylon nuts. I went to two moto practices Wednesday and Thursday with no problems at all. I kept a close eye on those nylock nuts and they are still very tight. The flange head bolts work well but they only clear the swingarm by about a third of an inch.

  • motoman393

Posted November 03, 2000 - 02:28 PM

#27

try this guys instead of buying a new bottom chain guide slider...buy a chain roller thats right a chain roller and modify it to fit on to the stock aluminum unit! I have done this on my bike and others bikes and it works great it wears out just a tad quicker but talk about QUIET and very cheap only $8-10 i use large or small moose chain rollers hope this helps!

motoman393

------------------
I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!

  • Boit

Posted November 04, 2000 - 02:45 AM

#28

Motoman: That sounds like a good idea. Seems like less friction as well. Did you use just one roller in place of the guide block? Why not 2? Not enough room?

  • motoman393

Posted November 04, 2000 - 07:24 AM

#29

I just use one because if you use 2 it pushes chain up to high... but i guess you could use a big roller up front and a little roller close to the chain! Be creative and see what works trust me the chain roller idea is soooo much better than chain slider! Im sure the manufacturers will catch on to this fairly soon! Hope this helps!

------------------
I get my kicks on a 2001' YZ426!





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