Bike won't stay running - help!
Posted May 04, 2003 - 02:25 PM
Two questions for anyone who has the knowledge:
1) Why won't my bike idle?
2) Do I need new rings? I am losing compression as I am able to kick through without having to use the release.
Ever since I YZ timed my bike a couple of years ago, it really never has idled well at all. It always had to be turned in (slide up) and it still wouldn't idle when stopped.
Well today I pulled the carb and removed the octopus. I changed out the pilot air to 100 and the starter to 65 per Clarkes instructions. Plugged up what you are supposed to and cleaned it all out. I have an EKQ #3, 160 main, 40 pilot and screw out 3/4 to 1 1/4.
It took forever to get the bike started. With the choke on, it warms up fine. It will start reving quite a bit and then I turn the choke off. The bike runs a little and then dies. Like it always has. Everything is on the carb correclty according to the book and microfiche pictures.
Then today, as I was kicking my ass off, it started to kick through with no resistance. I was able to use my hand to push it down. I did notice the bolt on the kick starter was loose and I tightened that down. That seemed to help a little but I'm wondering if I need new rings or is my kick starter stripping.
As I said, if anyone in CO wants to do a good deed, I would gladly pay you. I at my wits end.
I remember the good old days when all I would do to bikes is change the oil. Never had any problems with them. Only when I started learing to work on them am I having these problems.
Posted May 04, 2003 - 05:31 PM
The thing that gets to me is why it won't idle, at any jetting. Ever since I YZ timed it over two years ago. It runs and would always kick over when it stalled. It never quit on a ride unless I stopped. I even tried moving the TPS all through it's range and nothing helped.
My kingdom for a fuel injected dirtbike. What the hell are they waiting for?
Posted May 04, 2003 - 06:32 PM
As for the loss of compression, I've heard from other people, that the piston rings could move out of stock alignment position, and could come close to aligning with another rings end gap, which would can cause a loss of compression.
Posted May 05, 2003 - 03:43 AM
I agree with CU...you're wickedly too lean now on your pilot circuit with that 100PAJ...try 38PJ/65PAJ...or 40PJ/70PAJ...or 42PJ/75PAJ. I recommend the 38 option though...
Cant speak to that decompression issue...keep me posted on how things are going...
FYI...move to MN went OK...except for the fact that my truck's "check engine light" came on right before the twin cities. I think my Tahoe is just about "kaput" (sp?)...
Posted May 05, 2003 - 04:34 AM
Larry, glad the move went ok. I tried putting the ACV back to stock with the EKP needle #3 and my bike still didn't want to run with the EKP . I disabled the ACV again, put the EKQ #2 back in and then did the JamesNOW mod to take care of the slight bog when I snap the throttle open. Works great and the JamesNOW mod seemed to give me a little bit more low end response.
Posted May 05, 2003 - 05:40 AM
Posted May 05, 2003 - 06:54 AM
But as I look at Curt's Sig., you are YZ timed and deoctopussed too. Looks like you left the start jet alone at 60? Where is the MAJ? What is stock MAJ? So if I can summarize what I should try - EKQ #2, 38 pilot, 65 PAJ, 155 main, 160 MAJ, 60 SJ and a whole lot of hope.
HP, I'll readjust my decomp lever and see it that helps.
Thanks guys. I'll keep you posted.
Posted May 05, 2003 - 08:55 AM
1 1/4 out on screw
I want to get opinions before I put it back on. I won't be able to get a 160 MAJ or 60 PAJ until probably next month, so this will have to do. If anyone has suggestions on what would work with the 75 PAJ and 200 MAJ, I'm all ears.
I can't find the decompression adjustment instructions anywhere in the manual. Anyone direct me to the page number? But if I remember, I want about a 3-5mm play in the lever, which it has. Are there other instructions on the actual adjustment at the engine?
As far as idling goes, I checked the throttle slide against the manual for the 1000th time. It all appears to be correct. The plate is not upside down (hole is at the bottom). I've moved the TPS all over the place trying to get it to idle.
Is the slide plate, which is facing the engine, supposed to open up at all through the idle screw adjustment. I noticed the back of the slide, towards the airbox, does open as the screw is turned in. But the plate side never clears the bottom of the carb. Not sure if that is how it works or not.
One other question on the lack of compression. Am I going to ruin it if I run it that way? I am not going to have time to get it fixed before my trip to Moab over Memorial Day.
Posted May 05, 2003 - 08:59 AM
Also, depending on the altitude that you are running, I would try the 150 mj/160 maj. The EKQ is one size larger on the portion of the needle that affects the 0 - 1/4 throttle location so the 150/160 combination that I and others in this area are running will work the same no matter if its EKP,Q or R...
Posted May 05, 2003 - 10:26 AM
Posted May 05, 2003 - 10:49 AM
I'm going to go to Thunder Valley on C470 tomorrow. I'll try to mess around with it there. We are going to Rampart on Saturday around 1pm if anyone wants to hook up. That is if it is running.