YZ450f & YZ250 wheel question. Please help!!! *Pics*


11 replies to this topic
  • Justin89

Posted December 27, 2009 - 07:38 PM

#1

Hey guys, I have a set of blue excel wheels w/ gold talon hubs off of a 2006 yz450f. I also have a 2006 yz250 as well. I am trying to put the yz450f wheels on the yz250. Now, the front wheel lined up perfect. The rear...a different story. The wheel almost seems crooked. Everything is "pulling to the left". It hits the brake pads and assembly when you spin the wheel. I checked the "Wheel Interchange Thread" and it says that both the yz250 and yz450f have the same rear hub and have two identical spacers. Any ideas why they are rubbing? Axle and everything fits fine just a damn bear to fit in. Also, I just got these wheels today. What if the brake rotor and sprocket were put on the wrong side? Would this cause all the crooked-ness and rubbin? I cant really tell which one goes where on these Talon wheels because they are completely different than OEM hubs. Please, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!

Picture 1: Is the disk on the correct side in this picture?
Picture 2: Shows how rotor is pulling left and rubbing on the inside brake pad excessively (brake pads removed in this pic. When pads are in, rubbing significantly worse).

Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by Justin89, December 27, 2009 - 08:16 PM.


  • iamcanadain

Posted December 27, 2009 - 09:28 PM

#2

lengthen left side well adjuster or shorten the right side. and then mark them so when your chain loosens you just move everything back

  • myoung

Posted December 27, 2009 - 09:32 PM

#3

I noticed my Eagle hubs didn't put the rotor in exactly the same place as my stock one. However, the caliper is on pins and I was able to slide it over to line up with the rotor. I would check to see if your caliper is not moving smoothly or far enough over on the pins. Yours look a bit grungy, they might be rusted. Maybe they need to be re-lubed, they should be serviced once in a while, especially if you use a pressure washer for cleaning.

Your rotor is on the correct side. The rotor holes are threaded and smaller than the holes for the sprocket bolts.

BTW, you should flip your axle blocks around and get the bolts turned into the swing arm. That's why there's a short and long end, to keep the least amount of bolt exposed and reduce the leverage that can snap off the bolt head.

  • Justin89

Posted December 27, 2009 - 09:36 PM

#4

I noticed my Eagle hubs didn't put the rotor in exactly the same place as my stock one. However, the caliper is on pins and I was able to slide it over to line up with the rotor. I would check to see if your caliper is not moving smoothly or far enough over on the pins. Yours look a bit grungy, they might be rusted. Maybe they need to be re-lubed, they should be serviced once in a while, especially if you use a pressure washer for cleaning.

Your rotor is on the correct side. The rotor holes are threaded and smaller than the holes for the sprocket bolts.

BTW, you should flip your axle blocks around and get the bolts turned into the swing arm. That's why there's a short and long end, to keep the least amount of bolt exposed and reduce the leverage that can snap off the bolt head.


Thanks for all the info. I just aquired this 2006 yz250 and have been going through it for days finding all the crap the previous owner did wrong. (rust, grunge, etc) I have a new chain and sprocket kit in the mail so I havent bothered with the axle blocks yet. Thanks again...

  • myoung

Posted December 27, 2009 - 09:42 PM

#5

Ah, ok, yeah it's always fun fixing other people's messes. :cheers:

Sounds like it's in a good home now. :moon:

  • Justin89

Posted December 27, 2009 - 10:03 PM

#6

Any more ideas anyone?:moon:

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  • grayracer513

Posted December 27, 2009 - 10:14 PM

#7

The single most important question to be addressed is whether the rear sprocket aligns with the front correctly. Use the method Swatdoc outlines here:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=548940

After that, check the rotor alignment with the caliper. If the caliper still sits as it does in the picture, and the caliper will slid inboard on its pins no farther, you have two options:
  • Narrow the brake side wheel spacer, and shim the caliper hanger away from the swing arm, toward the wheel. This will likely become a nuisance while replacing the axle, and have to be changed by leaving the shim out if you use an OEM wheel at some time.
  • Space the rotor over on the hub toward the swing arm. This may prove to be difficult to accomplish in a workmanlike manner. Be critical.


  • Justin89

Posted December 27, 2009 - 10:42 PM

#8

The single most important question to be addressed is whether the rear sprocket aligns with the front correctly. Use the method Swatdoc outlines here:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=548940

After that, check the rotor alignment with the caliper. If the caliper still sits as it does in the picture, and the caliper will slid inboard on its pins no farther, you have two options:

  • Narrow the brake side wheel spacer, and shim the caliper hanger away from the swing arm, toward the wheel. This will likely become a nuisance while replacing the axle, and have to be changed by leaving the shim out if you use an OEM wheel at some time.
  • Space the rotor over on the hub toward the swing arm. This may prove to be difficult to accomplish in a workmanlike manner. Be critical.



I think I will be narrowing the brake side wheel, as well as the shim once I get my new chain and sprockets on. Hopefully that works. Thanks a lot Gray:thumbsup:

  • grayracer513

Posted December 27, 2009 - 10:46 PM

#9

I think I will be narrowing the brake side wheel, as well as the shim once I get my new chain and sprockets on. Hopefully that works. Thanks a lot Gray:thumbsup:

That will mean lengthening the chain side spacer. Be sure the sprockets align.

  • myoung

Posted December 27, 2009 - 11:08 PM

#10

OK, so I went out to the garage to take a look and my caliper looks like it might possibly be over to left just a tad bit further than yours, but not by much. You can fit the pad in there, but it's rubbing, right?

Maybe take the rotor off and lay it on a flat surface and see if it got hot and warped or cupped toward the left.

If the sprocket is lining up, spacing the hub to the right will throw that off, you'd have to space the caliper mount or rotor like grey mentioned. If both the sprocket and the rotor are too far left then you could space the hub over. However, odds are if it's off on this bike it would have been off on the 450. You say you just got these wheels, so they were on someone elses 450? Maybe that guy was having problems too and sold them. Maybe the spacers are wrong.

The next thing I can think of is if the wheel actually is mounted crooked. Do a quick check on the blocks or with a measuring tape just to make sure the last owner didn't have them in two different settings.

  • Justin89

Posted December 28, 2009 - 08:54 AM

#11

OK, so I went out to the garage to take a look and my caliper looks like it might possibly be over to left just a tad bit further than yours, but not by much. You can fit the pad in there, but it's rubbing, right?

Maybe take the rotor off and lay it on a flat surface and see if it got hot and warped or cupped toward the left.

If the sprocket is lining up, spacing the hub to the right will throw that off, you'd have to space the caliper mount or rotor like grey mentioned. If both the sprocket and the rotor are too far left then you could space the hub over. However, odds are if it's off on this bike it would have been off on the 450. You say you just got these wheels, so they were on someone elses 450? Maybe that guy was having problems too and sold them. Maybe the spacers are wrong.

The next thing I can think of is if the wheel actually is mounted crooked. Do a quick check on the blocks or with a measuring tape just to make sure the last owner didn't have them in two different settings.


Good points.Yes, with the pads in the rubbing is even worse. The problem with using the Talon hubs is that the OEM spacers wont even begin to fit since talon has the "rod" going through the hubs so I cant compare the two. However, by eyeball they seem the same. Since Im getting a new chain any day now, I'm gonna take the adjusters all the way in back to start and see what that does. For some reason I have this feeling like whatever it is is something minor that I could have probably prevented:banghead:

  • myoung

Posted December 28, 2009 - 11:29 AM

#12

Something you could try when you get your sprocket mounted up. Find a large perfectly flat surface to balance the wheel on the spacer. Do this with the new wheel and the original. Measure from the surface to the edge of the sprocket and to the edge of the rotor and through the axle hole to the edge of the other spacer.

If they all measure out the same, it's your caliper pins or the wheel is setting crooked or something is up with your caliper bracket or there's some other thing causing the caliper to not cooperate. I don't suspect this because I'm sure you had the old wheel on with no problems.

If the assembled spacers measure the same, but the distance to the sprocket and rotor shows they're to the left, or if the spacers are measuring too wide and you were fighting to spread the swingarm to mount the wheel, then the spacers are wrong and it's never going to line up. Call a Talon supplier for replacements. This is possible if you don't know the wheel's history.

If everything measures the same except the rotor; I doubt it would be, but if it's a lot different, then you might have a warped rotor or possibly the hub was machined wrong, if it's only a little different, probably the case, then there's still the possibility of a warped rotor or it's the same as my Eagle hub where it was made a little to the left and again you're dealing with the caliper or the wheel is setting crooked and that little bit of difference gets increased at the caliper or even a combination of all these. I'm thinking this is what you're dealing with, but I also think the spacers could be wrong.

To give you an idea on my Eagle hub, I had to slide my caliper all the way in till it wouldn't move any more and it was still tricky getting the wheel mounted up with how close the inside pad was. However, with the wheel mounted and squared up, it doesn't drag even with a new pad. There's just enough inside movement on the caliper to let it float over and self align a new pad. If there was any problem with the pin, it could get stuck.

I can see where the reason for this is possibly the manufacturer is trying to eliminate some of the leverage the caliper puts on the pins by making it ride as close as possible to the attachment point of the pin. This means tight tolerances though and if something is off a little, there could be the problem you have.





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