How to remove oil injection pipe (hose) from PW50


9 replies to this topic
  • jcm3

Posted December 25, 2009 - 05:14 PM

#1

Hi there,
Just bought my four year old a 2001 PW50 for Christmas. They are cool little bikes, and he was off and riding after about 30-40 minutes of practice with stop and go to make sure that he got the hang of the throttle.

I did some cleanup on it today (changed oil, cleaned air filter, spark plug and carb), and replaced the gas with a fresh tank. It runs fine, starts right up and seems to run well. I will likely replace the top end, but other than that it should be fine until he gets bored with it and needs more speed. Then I'll either do some light hop ups to it or replace it with a better bike.

When I took the carb apart, I could see the oil hose (owners manual calls it an oil injection pipe) coming from the oil pump into the carb. It doesn't appear to be held on with screws or bolts, or threads of any kind. I didn't want to mess with it, and was able to take the carb apart enough without messing with it today. But, in the future if I want to take it off completely for any rejetting or just to reduce the chance that I will damage the oil hose with it still connected, anyone know how to remove it from the carb side?

Thanks for any info.

  • Smacaroni

Posted January 02, 2010 - 06:31 PM

#2

leave the oil injection system in place. The oil injector will work way better than premix (adjusts ratio based on engine speed and throttle position) and you won't have to go through the hassle of rejetting the bike.
The tube is a friction fit and you'll find is firmly held in place, it takes a bit of force to remove it.
The injection system works great, why mess with it?

  • Wes Woodin

Posted January 03, 2010 - 06:57 PM

#3

leave the oil injection system in place. The oil injector will work way better than premix (adjusts ratio based on engine speed and throttle position) and you won't have to go through the hassle of rejetting the bike.
The tube is a friction fit and you'll find is firmly held in place, it takes a bit of force to remove it.
The injection system works great, why mess with it?


Is there anything else that can go wrong with the oil pump. How can you tell if it's working? I bought a 2004 model and it was run 4-5 times. I picked it up today and it wouldn't run. My friend told me it sat for 5 years. I brought it home and started to take it apart. Air filter disintegrated in my hand and dirt all in it. I took the carb off and couldn't believe it. The main jet was totally closed of and reeked of bad fuel. I cleaned it up and reinstalled the carb. I took off the oil supply line to the pump and the oil flowed freely. I drained the gas tank and put fresh fuel in it. New plug. Put it all back together and after 15-20 kicks, it started! It ran for 15 seconds and cut off. I couldn't get it started again. I believe I will get a carb rebuild kit. New float, seat, gaskets. I didn't get a manual with the bike. There is a stop run and start switch. What is the difference between the start and run switch and do you have any thoughts on why it isn't running? I'm thinking there might be more trash in the carb.:moon:

  • kunafish

Posted January 03, 2010 - 09:09 PM

#4

Is there anything else that can go wrong with the oil pump. How can you tell if it's working? I bought a 2004 model and it was run 4-5 times. I picked it up today and it wouldn't run. My friend told me it sat for 5 years. I brought it home and started to take it apart. Air filter disintegrated in my hand and dirt all in it. I took the carb off and couldn't believe it. The main jet was totally closed of and reeked of bad fuel. I cleaned it up and reinstalled the carb. I took off the oil supply line to the pump and the oil flowed freely. I drained the gas tank and put fresh fuel in it. New plug. Put it all back together and after 15-20 kicks, it started! It ran for 15 seconds and cut off. I couldn't get it started again. I believe I will get a carb rebuild kit. New float, seat, gaskets. I didn't get a manual with the bike. There is a stop run and start switch. What is the difference between the start and run switch and do you have any thoughts on why it isn't running? I'm thinking there might be more trash in the carb.:moon:


Has the gas tank been cleaned too? Might be some crud floating around in there and getting sucked into the carb...

  • Smacaroni

Posted January 04, 2010 - 09:25 AM

#5

Is there anything else that can go wrong with the oil pump.

Sure, like any thing, something can go wrong. However, oil injection systems typically do not fail.
I've seen one case where one did, on a TS185 that was abused and neglected for 30 years when it finally took a dump. If you'd like to read that story, I'll find the link.
The injector is one of the most reliable parts of the oil injection two stroke bikes.

How can you tell if it's working?

If it's smoking, it's working.

I bought a 2004 model and it was run 4-5 times. I picked it up today and it wouldn't run. My friend told me it sat for 5 years. I brought it home and started to take it apart. Air filter disintegrated in my hand and dirt all in it. I took the carb off and couldn't believe it. The main jet was totally closed of and reeked of bad fuel. I cleaned it up and reinstalled the carb. I took off the oil supply line to the pump and the oil flowed freely. I drained the gas tank and put fresh fuel in it. New plug. Put it all back together and after 15-20 kicks, it started! It ran for 15 seconds and cut off. I couldn't get it started again. I believe I will get a carb rebuild kit. New float, seat, gaskets.

Not a bad idea.
I'd bet that the carb is gunked up again. In addition to cleaning the carb and draining the fuel, you'll want to inspect the filter that's connected to the petcock. To do this, drain the tank again. Remove the screws that hold it on the tank. It's a simple screen that likely is covered in gunk, clean it anyway you can think of.
In addition to this, I install an in-line filter when it's possible, simple $2 lawn mower style is fine.

I didn't get a manual with the bike. There is a stop run and start switch. What is the difference between the start and run switch

Start position keeps the bike from revving up. On a clutchless bike, junior starts it with the throttle cranked, it could end badly. Start prevents this from happening.
This switch is a known issue, behind the number plate is three wires, make sure they're well insulated and water tight.

and do you have any thoughts on why it isn't running? I'm thinking there might be more trash in the carb.:moon:

Carb would be the first place I'd look again, just to be sure. It wouldn't surprise me if there's some build up in the crank case which is making it run rich, once you get the carb cleaned, a new clean oiled air filter, put a new plug in it. Check the crank case oil level. Then clean the exhaust pipe (unlikely, but might as well check it due to condition). Reassemble. Start it and immediately ride it to clear out some of that build up of gas/oil in the crank case.

Good luck.

  • William1

Posted January 04, 2010 - 10:17 AM

#6

To confirm the pump is working:
Most injection pumps have a bleed screw. You rotate the wheel with the bleed screw removed and can pump any/all the air out and confirm flow. You should do this anytime the oil tank is run dry or the tank is removed. With the engine runningm, the wheel will rotate on its' own and the plunger will move in and out.

The biggest problem I have seen with oil injection is they are often mis-adjusted, pumping way more oil than need be. Adjusting consists of adjusting the cables to the carb and pump (get them sync'd) and the pump stroke.

  • Tomsti

Posted January 09, 2010 - 09:20 PM

#7

Our PW has been running for a couple of years on 32:1 mixed gas. If your system works its just as easy to stick with it. Changing over doesn't gain that much for little guys just starting out.

Have Fun!!

  • hunt1moore

Posted January 14, 2010 - 07:11 AM

#8

To answer your question...
Yes, you will probably break the line at the carb nipple when trying to remove it. The plastic/rubber line gets hard over time and looses it's plyability.

  • jcm3

Posted January 16, 2010 - 07:18 PM

#9

leave the oil injection system in place. The oil injector will work way better than premix (adjusts ratio based on engine speed and throttle position) and you won't have to go through the hassle of rejetting the bike.
The tube is a friction fit and you'll find is firmly held in place, it takes a bit of force to remove it.
The injection system works great, why mess with it?


I didn't plan to remove the system, just the carb so that I could clean it better. I didn't realize that the little metal tube thing came off, allowing the hose to come off.

Funny thing happened just after I made the first post though. My son dropped it, and somehow managed to break the little oil injection brass fitting off. %$#@!~ It doesn't come as a separate part, so I ended up buying a new carb. The bike actually runs much better now.

At least now I know how to take off the oil injection 'pipe.' :banghead:

  • Smacaroni

Posted January 18, 2010 - 07:20 AM

#10

Total bummer. Check ebay, PW parts are plentiful and thus cheap. I'd send you one of my spares, but I only have 80 parts, no 50 stuff.




 
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