powerslave73 said:

I gotta try the home brew unit first. Don't go and blow my grand scheme of having the finned body anodized blue to closely match my frame ya party pooper! :moon: One of the tool and die guys in my division at work has a son that builds custom knives. He has a complete anodizing system and said he'd try to match my frame color as close as possible on my FP housing. Hell, that's worth a couple of burnt up $10.91 pumps ain't it? :lol:

Agreed!!! your pump set -up is way trick.

Why not just thread the end of your aluminum housing and make a matching open ended cap to thread on? You could use a small hex screw for a set screw to secure the cap. Make the opening in the cap just large enough for the electrical connector on the pump.

Your pump housing is a work of art! I personally would go with red anodize so it stands out. It will make a great talking point when someone asks "what's that??" :smirk: I might do something similar down the road.

Here's a quick drawing of the tach input from the pickup coil to Microsquirt's opto inputs:



The 5.1 Volt zener diode is needed because at higher RPMs there's a small (under 5 Volt) signal from the stator magnets. If you see super high RPMs (8 times normal) that's the cause. I added a trimpot in series as an adjustment if it becomes a problem. You can get the zener just about any where, but the Digikey part number is 1N4733AFSCT-ND. It's only $0.17 in single quantity. I've got a bunch of the 2.5k trimmers if you need one. PM me and I'll mail you a couple.

We have a major snow storm here in the DC area (12 inches so far), so I'll be working on my EFI :smirk:

mx_rob said:

Homebrew anodizing of small aluminum parts is actually pretty simple. Not that you need to add another facet to this project :smirk:

[quote name='msiddalingaiah']Your pump housing is a work of art! I personally would go with red anodize so it stands out. It will make a great talking point when someone asks "what's that??" :smirk: I might do something similar down the road.
[/quote]

Thanks...I'm hoping it works nearly as good as it seems to look. :busted: I'm not a big sticker/gawdy-it-up kinda guy I guess... red would certainly stand out. :shocked: :smirk:

[QUOTE]
Here's a quick drawing of the tach input from the pickup coil to Microsquirt's opto inputs:



The 5.1 Volt zener diode is needed because at higher RPMs there's a small (under 5 Volt) signal from the stator magnets. If you see super high RPMs (8 times normal) that's the cause. I added a trimpot in series as an adjustment if it becomes a problem. You can get the zener just about any where, but the Digikey part number is [URL="http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1N4733AFSCT-ND"]1N4733AFSCT-ND[/URL]. It's only $0.17 in single quantity. I've got a bunch of the 2.5k trimmers if you need one. PM me and I'll mail you a couple.
[/QUOTE]

:worthy: Very cool! So the stock DR pick-up is a VR right? I'd think a hall effect pick-up would be really confused with all the AC stator magnets. :busted: I can pick-up the components at my local electronics shop. I was heading down there anyway hoping to see if the sparky geeks there might be able to help me with figuring out if I can take the IAC stepper motor from the TB and set it up for a constant position of my choice. The stepper control was removed from the Microsquirt to make room for the second injector and ignition channels. Darn Harley riders anyway. :lol: It can either do PWM or on/off control. I was looking at the stepper... I can do a mechanical travel limiter if I need to but I'm not sure what type of current draw I might create doing that. It would be cool to be able to just make an adjustment in megatune to adjust the valve opening constant when it's energized. I know I may not absolutely need the IAC but I need to suffer the full frontal lobe headache whenever possible. :bonk: :lol: Do you (or anyone) have any thoughts on this?

Now, how the heck am I going to get that MAF sensor mounted in the air box?:thinking:

[QUOTE]
We have a major snow storm here in the DC area (12 inches so far), so I'll be working on my EFI :smirk:[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]

I hear ya. It's dropping white crap here as well. :foul:

ProCycle said:

Yeah, I think I'll leave the call to Caswell Inc. alone for right now. :p

donwann said:

Because I'm too damn lazy to set the lathe up for threading! You really should have known. :lol:

Seriously though, that is another good idea... I would have had to leave a step in the base of the housing to prevent the pump pick-up from bottoming on the end. I gleefully machined the interior fairly open for my "fuel surround" so that's out in housing V1.0. If I end up making another housing I'd certainly consider the screw on cap. Certainly a more secure method of holding the pump in place. :thumbsup:

mx_rob said:

The cap wouldn't have to thread on. If it was slotted on one side it could be secured to the housing with a nice aircraft style hose clamp.

LT-A700 "Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor" (with rubber holder) from Suzuki. $118.20 sold as "Vacuum Operated Switch" (with rubber holder) on ebay. $8.95 :banana: That's what I'm talking about..... :smirk:

Here's the silly little expensive thing attached to the TB.

Interesting. Where did you find data on the OEM MAP sensor? I've got one for the R6 TB, but it probably won't work well on a thumper. It would be nice to know something about it.

msiddalingaiah said:

The only actual data that I have on the A700's MAP sensor is what is in the manual for the ATV (resistive test readings, etc). I'm just making the assumption that the sensor, sensor port in the TB, hose size and length will all work well with the DR650 figuring Suzuki had the best combination of sensor response and dampening for the pulse as possible for the 700cc ATV. Even then they could have done something like Alpha-N blending in their ECU. I know the GM sensor would be way too sensitive to MAP pulses of the big thumper since they are designed for multi-cylinder engines.... just looking at the port size on the GM sensor compared to the port size on the A700's TB and MAP sensor is telling in this regard. To me it's vital to sense manifold pressure for cruise throttle fuel economy.... at least it makes the most logical sense anyway. I can set up a Alpha-N table for Idle, and once MAP falls completely off, the upper throttle range since both of those areas will not be running in the close to, or even above, stoichiometric range. The FI project for me is certainly not all about get-up-and-go performance.... although I'll gladly accept any thrown my way. :smirk:

I'm with you. I really like the idea of reverse engineering OEM stuff. I would love to know what's inside a stock DR CDI box. I don't like expensive black boxes. If anyone has a toasted CDI they no longer need, send it my way. I'll post anything I can learn about it.

Sensing MAP is a good thing, after all, that's what carbs do :smirk:. I see three pins, I assume it's power, ground, and output. If you can figure out what the connections are, the rest should be straightforward. As you say Suzuki has figured it out, so it would nice to leverage their engineering.

It looks like we are all trying to solve the same problem in different ways: Sam went with Alpha-N, HeadTrauma and Captain Midnight used an inline filter, you are using an OEM MAP sensor, I'm using an RC filter. It will be interesting to see how they compare.

Personally, I doubt that Suzuki had any filtering done inside the MAP except for perhaps temperature compensation, but that's often a standard feature of pressure transducers anyway. Instead, doing all the monkey business via the algorithms allows a standard sensor to be used across multiple engines.

HeadTrauma said:

That makes sense. It seems like map filtering could be added to MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt code, but since they are mostly used in cars, MAP filtering is not high on the list of priorities. I've done a bit of analysis to figure out what it would take, and it's not much. If I had the time, I could add it to MegaSquirt, but it's low on my list of priorities as well :smirk:.

msiddalingaiah said:

Yeah, that's the beauty of the stock wiring harness and manual. I got my wiring harness yesterday. It has the fuel pump relay and a couple of other relays still attached that I can use. All the powered 3 wire sensors are marked with +, - and output pins in the diagram. The rest I just traced out on the diagram. It also has the some other relay (haven't tyraced it out yet) and a really nice mini GM style fuse box with 8 circuits (3-15's and 5-10's) all mounted in a nice plastic covered set-up. I've got a couple of relay circuits on my bike now for my LM2 O2 sensor and my choked TPS circuit for the FCR-MX. It will be nice to strip all of that and use this nice tidy fuse panel and relay set-up. :busted:

Quote

Well I'm still expecting to have to do some Alpha-N blending for idle at the minimum... and maybe even for the upper throttle range based on how early MAP falls off.

HeadTrauma said:

The filtering I'm speaking of is the TB/MAP port and hose ID size. They are very small which will dampen the pulsation response of the sensor. Just changing the length of the hose will make a difference in response times. Even with that I'm nearly certain some Alpha-N blending will be needed to keep the fuel map from going nuts at idle. This will be interesting to play around with... :thumbsup:

The small MAP line has less damping effect than may appear. I was running a 1/8" ID line that was about 30" long and the signal swung around by about 40kPa.

I guess I should get into the old garage computer and dig up the datalogs and do a screencap of the wavy lines. ;)

i'm fascinated by both mxrobs and msiddalingaiahs threads on FI conversion. Thanks for sharing all this wonderful knowledge and trail and error. What does Alpha-N blending mean? I gather its some sort algorithm one would include in the ECU code to help manipulate sensor data to get things running smoothly...although thats just a guess. Where does Alpha-N term derive from? Whats a good resource to read up on this?

Yes, I'm certain blending will be required. Too much restriction and the MAP will be useless to control fuel fast enough..... I'm really looking forward to messing around with this. I'm drooling to see something more than 0's in the tables and maps on Megatune. :banghead: Anything you have I could lay eyes on would be great to learn from. :worthy: