wr426f help?????????

90 replies to this topic
  • jbrooks26

Posted January 01, 2010 - 05:53 PM


Also, don't go cutting any wires without good reason. If you suspect the keyed ignition, simply do a spark test. There are many reasons that could cause your ignition spark to fail. The switch is only one of them. While you have the spark plug out, check it for spark by holding the plug against the exhaust or a head bolt and kicking it over. Might need another person to see, unless you can turn the lights out and make it dark. You should see a nice blue spark when the bike is kicked over and the plug is held on a good ground such as the exhaust or a head bolt.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted January 02, 2010 - 02:06 PM


got the spark plug out the threads were all oily and it was black. went to the dealer and got some spark plugs. then i did the straw test for tdc and it turns out i was on the wrong revolution and the cams are upside down at tdc. i really hope that this is the only problem and nothing major has been damaged. going to line up the cams again put the new plug in and say a few prayers before i kick the bike. thanks guys

  • jbrooks26

Posted January 02, 2010 - 03:32 PM


You mean the lobes were facing each other at TDC? Make sure you turn the engine over by hand several times before kicking it through. This is easier if you do it with the plug removed, then way you can easily tell the difference between an obstruction (valve) and engine compression. I hope this works out for you, sounds like you are learnign a lot anyway. Good Luck.


  • bakeyz426f

Posted January 02, 2010 - 04:39 PM


i was out working on the bike taking the cam caps back off and and i had a magnet to catch the the clips that are on each cam. got one clip but didnt even see the other one. didnt hear it fall anywhere and i had a magnet right by the cam to catch it. i cant remember for sure if i had the clip on there the last time i put the bike together but i thought i did. then i thought about it and i was thinking it proboly fell out some time when the cam cap wasnt torqed down right, but again i thought i had it when i retorqued everthing down last time. where could the clip be if its in the engine?? the only place it appears it could go is down by the crank gear but i looked down the engine the best i could and didnt see it, i also stuck i magnet down the engine with no luck.:smirk::moon::smirk: ethier the clip is in my garage some where or in the engine. looks like ill have to take out the stator and rotor to check.:cheers:

  • jbrooks26

Posted January 02, 2010 - 06:15 PM


When I did mine, I had one of the clips fall into one of the cam cap bolt holes. It almost swallowed it whole, and if I hadn't seen it drop in there I may have never found it. Otherwise, I would do my darndest to find that little bugger before I put it back together again. If that clip is in the motor, it could be the reason that your starter gets stuck sometimes. Hope you find it.


  • bakeyz426f

Posted January 02, 2010 - 10:01 PM


is there any where the circlip could be besides down by the crank gear or in one of the holes somewhere on the head?

  • jbrooks26

Posted January 03, 2010 - 06:58 AM


It could be trapped behind one of the Cam Chain Guides, or anywhere in the cam chain cavity. Otherwise, it must be in the engine or on your garage floor somewhere.

One other place it could be. I've seen them get stuck to the flywheel because it is a large magnet. You may find that it is stuck to the FW, and that is why you can't pull it back with your stick magnet. If you can't find it easily, I would go ahead and pull the stator and flywheel to make sure it is not in the engine.

  • matt4x4

Posted January 04, 2010 - 06:11 AM


Like stated - it can be in 1 of 3 places - down the cam chain slot and in the flywheel, under a cam in the hole for the head bolts or on the shop floor.

I don't understand how your cams could have been set up wrong....your flywheel shows TDC while the cams showed the right position in your pics...if you turn the flywheel one revolution, your cams will face inward (more or less) and it will look like they are set up wrong, but turn it another revolution and they will be lined up pointing outwards again....it's the way a 4T works, cams do one revolution for every 2 the flywheel does, so the flywheel hits TDC twice while the cams only do one revolution.

Don't put carb cleaner in your spark plug hole - it will wash your cylinder walls dry and possibly cause a loss of compression as well as some damage, just use a new plug or keep cleaning your old one until you have the oil burned off then replace it with a new one.

Are you getting spark (plug out and held against a good ground) Try checking your kill switch if you are getting NO signs of spark.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted January 06, 2010 - 06:03 PM


found the circlip lying on the rotor right when i pulled off the cover. put everthing back together and a new plug. the bike still wont start and now it has little compression. i can kick it over without the decompression lever but it has to be a hard kick. it still got stuck on a few kicks before it went all the way through its motion.im thinking oil got into the cylinder or something while the plug was out. if i cant get it to start this time it looks like ill have to take it somewhere.:moon:

  • matt4x4

Posted January 07, 2010 - 05:18 AM


take the plug out, tape a qtip on a straw and stick it down the plug hole at tdc - if you have significant oil in the cylinder, the qtip will come out soaked.

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  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 03, 2010 - 03:09 PM


i finally got some time to go and work on my bike a little and it didnt seem to get stuck any more when i kicked, i had it in a smaller that i got to about 50 degress. i tested the spark plug and when i had my key tured on and and the plug attached to the connecter i got a spark. i couldnt get the bike to start i think because it is lacking compression. there does seem to be a little oil in the cylinder because when i put a new plug in the bike ,after kicking the bike without the plug in for a while, then i put the plug back in and took it out without kicking it or anything and the bottom threads on the plug had oil on them. how can i clean the oil out of the cylinder? i kicked it without the plug in 15 or so times with a paper towel over the hole and only about half a drop oil was absorbed by the paper towel. could i spray a little starting fluid in there to get it started or is that risky?

  • matt4x4

Posted February 04, 2010 - 05:06 AM


a little bit of oil really shouldn't stop it from starting.
Try a little starting fluid through the carb intake and see if it fires - that should not hurt it.
No compression is something of concern though.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 04, 2010 - 08:42 AM


it has some compression i cant push it by had and it takes a good kick without the decompression lever

  • jbrooks26

Posted February 04, 2010 - 06:43 PM


Like Matt said, try some starting fluid of some sort into the carb intake and see if it fires. It won't take long for any excess oil to burn off. If you still can't get it to start, then you should do a leak down test to determine where the compression leak is and go forward from there. It could be as simple as the cylinder walls are not sealing against the rings which may correct itself once you get it to fire over. Hope this helps.


  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 04, 2010 - 06:47 PM


well i sprayed starting fluid down the the spark plug hole and still didnt get it to start.sprayed a little in the carb and it didnt fire. i know the spark plugs good. would not having enough compression cause it not to fire? i can push the kick starter down with my hand kind of if i use all my weight so it has far less than normal compression. what problems would cause compression loss? bad rings, bent valve or valves that need adjusted. should i take off the head and cylinder? im getting frustrated with the bike and thinking about having a mechanic look at it. i dont think the bike has a major problem, and if there is something wrong im pretty sure its not in the bottom end? im almost positive the bike is timed right so thats ruled out, and it has a spark. now i need to find out whats causeing the compression loss. is there any way to rule things out without taking off the head? thanks

  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 04, 2010 - 06:53 PM


where is the carb intake? i spayed a little in the hole where the gas tube connects? i also tryed to flood a little gas in the engine by leaning the bike over cause i wasnt sure it was getting fuel? could oil in the cylinder that sat there for 2-3 months cause compression loss that im experiencing?

  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 05, 2010 - 03:09 PM


if i do a compression test could it pin point where the compression loss is comming from? i dont have a tester but is this what i would need or will i have to take it to a shop to do a test to tell me where the compression loss is comming from? http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B00020BM28

  • Birdy426

Posted February 05, 2010 - 08:04 PM


No, you don't spray the starting fluid into the fuel tube. Take the air filter off and spray the starting fluid into the air intake tract. Hold the throttle open while you spray or it will just puddle in the air boot and evaporate. Close the throttle when you are done spraying, then don't touch it while you kick.

As far as what could be causing the compression problem, my guess is cam timing, as that's what you've been playing with.

  • bakeyz426f

Posted February 06, 2010 - 08:04 AM


i read in another post that a damaged would ruff key caused the rotor to become out of line. last time i was in that area it looked unharmed. i guess ill try spraying some starting fluid in the air intake, then if that doesnt work ill take the valve cover off and check the timming again. then mabye the woodruff key. thanks

  • Birdy426

Posted February 06, 2010 - 08:17 AM


i read in another post that a damaged would ruff key caused the rotor to become out of line. last time i was in that area it looked unharmed. i guess ill try spraying some starting fluid in the air intake, then if that doesnt work ill take the valve cover off and check the timming again. then mabye the woodruff key. thanks

Woodruff key shearing was really a problem on the '03 450s as a result of the extra torque that the e-start put on the flywheel. Unless the flywheel nut has backed off at some point while the bike is running, they really aen't an issue on the 426s.


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