Posted December 21, 2009 - 05:22 AM
Almost makes me thing at some point prior to this adventure - the center 2 bolts on that cap were overtorqued....
I agree - work with what you got, if the head does go - there's usually plenty on ebay to be had for a decent price - just gotta be real sure you're getting a good one. For the 30 bucks it costs - buy another timing chain, who knows what kind of weird stresses acted on the old one during this!
Make a list - check it twice - not because it's Christmas but because - if you work off a list of steps that you have to perform and inspect and check off - you tend to make less mistakes.
Posted December 23, 2009 - 03:47 PM
Posted December 23, 2009 - 04:30 PM
Posted December 24, 2009 - 04:17 AM
Stuck tends to be an indication your bottom end bearings might be on tehir way out, however, in your case, I think you may need to check some other things.
I would say because of the strange situation that occurred, it may well be that your cam gear spun and you are now connecting with a valve.
First, press your decompression lever, put a ratchet on your crank and see if you can turn your motor over forwards, if it moves smoothly - good, if it doesn't move, see if you can free it up by moving it backwards, if it frees up, try moving it forwards again beyond the point where it was stuck, if it moves beyond, it may well be bearings since those would be inconsistent in where/how they jam, however, piston/valve jamming will occur in the same spot.
Next, I would remove the cam cover, and have a look to see what is what when it's turning over - where are the cam lobes pointing at TDC, where are the cam lobes pointing when getting stuck, also - before you disassemble everything again, look up some pics of cams and cam gears for the bike (there are plenty on this forum) that show you the approximate location of timing marks vs cam lobes.
Also - if you do take the cams off again, it might be beneficial to see if all your valves are moving smoothly and freely - place a socket slightly smaller than the bucket onto it with extension and ratchet attached, cup the ratchet and push down and release slowly - you should be able to get a good feeling of how each valve is moving and be able to see if it is moving through it's full stroke.
Posted December 24, 2009 - 02:22 PM
Posted December 24, 2009 - 10:10 PM
Posted December 25, 2009 - 08:39 PM
Posted December 31, 2009 - 12:50 PM
Posted December 31, 2009 - 03:20 PM
Posted December 31, 2009 - 07:36 PM
Also, your cam lobes should be opposing each other, if they are facing the same direction, then one of your cams is 180 degrees out of time. This will cause all of the valves to open at the same time. Your cams will only line up every 2 revolutions, or 4 strokes. Hope this helps.
Posted December 31, 2009 - 08:54 PM
Posted January 01, 2010 - 06:50 AM
I'll try to explain the process of the 4 stroke motor for you. There are "4 Strokes", 1 for intake, one for compression, one for power (Ignition) and then one for Exhaust. The cams configure which is intake and which is exhaust by opening the valves at the proper timing intervals. The piston will rise to TDC twice in each cycle, and the spark plug will fire on both the Compression and the Exhaust strokes when the pistion reaches TDC.
I hope this helps, if you have any questions let me have it. Thanks,
Posted January 01, 2010 - 09:29 AM
Posted January 01, 2010 - 09:43 AM
Posted January 01, 2010 - 11:21 AM
Also, while you have the tank off to change the plug, do a quick visual to be sure you haven't accidentally disconnected any electrical conections.
Posted January 01, 2010 - 12:01 PM
Posted January 01, 2010 - 02:00 PM
Posted January 01, 2010 - 02:26 PM
A 5/8 spark plug socket with a universal attached to a 6" extension will do the trick.
im not sure i have the right socket for the spark plug. do you have to buy one made for the bike or will a certain size deep well socket work.