you guys got any recomandations for a CAI for a 2002 chevy silverado, i am not sure about the whole oiling thing, i would not like the oil the filter, it seems like it would be a pain in the ass oiling one of thoes filters with all the ribs:foul:but everyone else seems to be getting along fine with them...i was gonna wait till spring but i ordered a HID lighting kit and i dont want to have to remount the right ballast when i get it
Cold air intake
Started by Berm-Saw, Dec 14 2009 09:39 AM
14 replies to this topic
Posted 14 December 2009 - 09:39 AM
you guys got any recomandations for a CAI for a 2002 chevy silverado, i am not sure about the whole oiling thing, i would not like the oil the filter, it seems like it would be a pain in the ass oiling one of thoes filters with all the ribs:foul:but everyone else seems to be getting along fine with them...i was gonna wait till spring but i ordered a HID lighting kit and i dont want to have to remount the right ballast when i get it
Posted 14 December 2009 - 11:11 AM
Berm-Saw said:
you guys got any recomandations for a CAI for a 2002 chevy silverado, i am not sure about the whole oiling thing, i would not like the oil the filter, it seems like it would be a pain in the ass oiling one of thoes filters with all the ribs:foul:but everyone else seems to be getting along fine with them...i was gonna wait till spring but i ordered a HID lighting kit and i dont want to have to remount the right ballast when i get it
Stock.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
Posted 14 December 2009 - 12:18 PM
I got the K&N intake on my Excursion.....said it was supposed to help with mpg but i think it actually went down since i like to just gas it to hear that deep air sucking sound :busted:
The cleaning part isn't that bad and I bought the k&n recharge kit and it takes about a few hours to maybe a day cuz you have to let the filter air dry before you reapply the oil. The kit for our V10 was like $340 or somethin don't remember the exact price.
I've heard a lot of good things about the AEM oil-free ones though :thumbsup:
I would also recommend a dry filter wrap to put on it as well those are like $10-20
The cleaning part isn't that bad and I bought the k&n recharge kit and it takes about a few hours to maybe a day cuz you have to let the filter air dry before you reapply the oil. The kit for our V10 was like $340 or somethin don't remember the exact price.
I've heard a lot of good things about the AEM oil-free ones though :thumbsup:
I would also recommend a dry filter wrap to put on it as well those are like $10-20
Posted 14 December 2009 - 10:16 PM
chickenhauler said:
Stock.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
+1 i hate k&n filters they are a huge P.I.T.A and cost way to much .
Posted 15 December 2009 - 12:45 PM
chickenhauler said:
Stock.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
That is very well stated point you made.
I've dealt with air filters in my career. Though it be industrial. The level of dry filters is much more efficient than wet (oil) ones. The life of the A/F is prolonged as well.
Here's an example why.
If you leave a dry filter in ambient conditions (i.e. parked) it will not hold on/attract as much dirt/dust particles as a wet "oiled" one will in those exact conditions. SEE WHY AND HOW BELOW
Pour oil on the ground in a 5 inch size puddle.
Now pour saw dust on and around it in about 10 inch size circle.
Note the amount of saw dust on that inner puddle and note the dust on the outer circle.
Which area has more saw dust? Hopefully about the same
NOW use a leaf blower or your breath move the saw dust away.
Which has more dust after you blow on it to remove the dust?
Common sense applies.
For about decade we stopped using media filter (oiled) around our filter houses. They always clogged and held onto things that would normally just not be there.
Also, note your filter is designed to make a good seal. A new one will make a better seal than a 6 year old K&N around the filter housing any day.
Just my opinion and life experiences. (I do use Twin Air filters and Bio Oil. Though it is good stuff I change my A/F after every ride regardless.)
Posted 15 December 2009 - 06:23 PM
jbusa8 said:
the oiling takes several minutes. you just spray it on.
thats really not the problem, its just the fact that i dont think oil belongs on a road vehicles air filter
Posted 17 December 2009 - 09:20 AM
Stock.
I put a K&N on my 05 Hemi Ram, mpgs dropped....so I took it off, sold it, put the stock one back on. Felt like I lost some low end as well.
Took the money from the intake and bought 2 10's, 1000 watt amp and a custom sealed box....
I put a K&N on my 05 Hemi Ram, mpgs dropped....so I took it off, sold it, put the stock one back on. Felt like I lost some low end as well.
Took the money from the intake and bought 2 10's, 1000 watt amp and a custom sealed box....
Posted 21 December 2009 - 04:16 PM
YFZ450_725 said:
Stock.
I put a K&N on my 05 Hemi Ram, mpgs dropped....so I took it off, sold it, put the stock one back on. Felt like I lost some low end as well.
Took the money from the intake and bought 2 10's, 1000 watt amp and a custom sealed box....
I put a K&N on my 05 Hemi Ram, mpgs dropped....so I took it off, sold it, put the stock one back on. Felt like I lost some low end as well.
Took the money from the intake and bought 2 10's, 1000 watt amp and a custom sealed box....
trying to boost mpg on a dodge:lol: about a 10% mpg gain and you might be up to 4:busted: (exadurated of course)
a good setup with 2 tens would run you atleast $900, how much you spend on it, i will be getting a setup like that too this summer, rims/tires first tho
Posted 22 December 2009 - 04:56 AM
bentsprocket said:
That is very well stated point you made.
I've dealt with air filters in my career. Though it be industrial. The level of dry filters is much more efficient than wet (oil) ones. The life of the A/F is prolonged as well.
Here's an example why.
If you leave a dry filter in ambient conditions (i.e. parked) it will not hold on/attract as much dirt/dust particles as a wet "oiled" one will in those exact conditions. SEE WHY AND HOW BELOW
Pour oil on the ground in a 5 inch size puddle.
Now pour saw dust on and around it in about 10 inch size circle.
Note the amount of saw dust on that inner puddle and note the dust on the outer circle.
Which area has more saw dust? Hopefully about the same
NOW use a leaf blower or your breath move the saw dust away.
Which has more dust after you blow on it to remove the dust?
Common sense applies.
For about decade we stopped using media filter (oiled) around our filter houses. They always clogged and held onto things that would normally just not be there.
Also, note your filter is designed to make a good seal. A new one will make a better seal than a 6 year old K&N around the filter housing any day.
Just my opinion and life experiences. (I do use Twin Air filters and Bio Oil. Though it is good stuff I change my A/F after every ride regardless.)
I've dealt with air filters in my career. Though it be industrial. The level of dry filters is much more efficient than wet (oil) ones. The life of the A/F is prolonged as well.
Here's an example why.
If you leave a dry filter in ambient conditions (i.e. parked) it will not hold on/attract as much dirt/dust particles as a wet "oiled" one will in those exact conditions. SEE WHY AND HOW BELOW
Pour oil on the ground in a 5 inch size puddle.
Now pour saw dust on and around it in about 10 inch size circle.
Note the amount of saw dust on that inner puddle and note the dust on the outer circle.
Which area has more saw dust? Hopefully about the same
NOW use a leaf blower or your breath move the saw dust away.
Which has more dust after you blow on it to remove the dust?
Common sense applies.
For about decade we stopped using media filter (oiled) around our filter houses. They always clogged and held onto things that would normally just not be there.
Also, note your filter is designed to make a good seal. A new one will make a better seal than a 6 year old K&N around the filter housing any day.
Just my opinion and life experiences. (I do use Twin Air filters and Bio Oil. Though it is good stuff I change my A/F after every ride regardless.)
Unless the filter is exposed, it shouldn't collect any significant amount of dirt parked.
Try your experiment again, take an old MC air filter you were going to throw out, clean and oil it like you normally would. Put it in your workshop on the bench with a bucket over it.
Now, take another disposable automotive filter and stick that in the same place, with a bucket over it.
In six months, compare which has more dirt/dust on it? Should be about the same - next to none.
Anyway, I've got a K&N on my daily driver and love it. I like being able to leave it alone for a year and a half or more and not do anything to it. When you drive 30,000+ miles a year it's nice to have a long service life on any part. Now if only I could avoid changing my oil for more than two months, I'd be really happy. (three cars + too many bikes = oil changes all the time).
Now as to the OP's question. You have to be very cautious about cold air intakes, too many of them are poorly designed and while they may flow more air, it's warm air which is not what you want. That's why I built my own using as little stock components as possible, fully enclosed and the intake begins outside the engine compartment.
Mine starts under the fender, through the side of the EC into a sort of stock looking air box (had to do it that way because of how the EC is built), to the MAS and then through modified stock air tube - again I had to do it that way or spend $$$ to pay someone else to do it.
If I had the skills and wanted a modified look, I'd have gone with a scoop through the hood. But I want a sleeper, not a ricer.
Posted 22 December 2009 - 06:30 AM
I had a cold air intake on my cavalier and with the winter conditions around here, all the salt and all I noticed some deposits on my throttle body, NOT GOOD. I replaced it with the stock intake and guess what noticed nothing power wise, and no more salt deposits. In my opinion it makes the engine bay look better but other than that it pretty much does nothing. JMO though :excuseme: I'm sure you can gain a few HP's but its not something you would notice
Posted 22 December 2009 - 07:42 AM
Smacaroni said:
I don't know why you're putting saw dust in your vehicle's air intake, running or parked.
Unless the filter is exposed, it shouldn't collect any significant amount of dirt parked.
Try your experiment again, take an old MC air filter you were going to throw out, clean and oil it like you normally would. Put it in your workshop on the bench with a bucket over it.
Now, take another disposable automotive filter and stick that in the same place, with a bucket over it.
In six months, compare which has more dirt/dust on it? Should be about the same - next to none.
Anyway, I've got a K&N on my daily driver and love it. I like being able to leave it alone for a year and a half or more and not do anything to it. When you drive 30,000+ miles a year it's nice to have a long service life on any part. Now if only I could avoid changing my oil for more than two months, I'd be really happy. (three cars + too many bikes = oil changes all the time).
Now as to the OP's question. You have to be very cautious about cold air intakes, too many of them are poorly designed and while they may flow more air, it's warm air which is not what you want. That's why I built my own using as little stock components as possible, fully enclosed and the intake begins outside the engine compartment.
Mine starts under the fender, through the side of the EC into a sort of stock looking air box (had to do it that way because of how the EC is built), to the MAS and then through modified stock air tube - again I had to do it that way or spend $$$ to pay someone else to do it.
If I had the skills and wanted a modified look, I'd have gone with a scoop through the hood. But I want a sleeper, not a ricer.
Unless the filter is exposed, it shouldn't collect any significant amount of dirt parked.
Try your experiment again, take an old MC air filter you were going to throw out, clean and oil it like you normally would. Put it in your workshop on the bench with a bucket over it.
Now, take another disposable automotive filter and stick that in the same place, with a bucket over it.
In six months, compare which has more dirt/dust on it? Should be about the same - next to none.
Anyway, I've got a K&N on my daily driver and love it. I like being able to leave it alone for a year and a half or more and not do anything to it. When you drive 30,000+ miles a year it's nice to have a long service life on any part. Now if only I could avoid changing my oil for more than two months, I'd be really happy. (three cars + too many bikes = oil changes all the time).
Now as to the OP's question. You have to be very cautious about cold air intakes, too many of them are poorly designed and while they may flow more air, it's warm air which is not what you want. That's why I built my own using as little stock components as possible, fully enclosed and the intake begins outside the engine compartment.
Mine starts under the fender, through the side of the EC into a sort of stock looking air box (had to do it that way because of how the EC is built), to the MAS and then through modified stock air tube - again I had to do it that way or spend $$$ to pay someone else to do it.
If I had the skills and wanted a modified look, I'd have gone with a scoop through the hood. But I want a sleeper, not a ricer.
Not once did I say "putting saw dust in your vehicle's air intake, running or parked." Maybe you should slow down your reading and understand that was the end result of the examples.
Nowhere did I state an "air box/housing" was being used in the examples.
ANYTHING and I do mean ANYTHING "wet" OILED will hold on to dust particulates more than ANYTHING "dry" non-oiled.
Have you ever drove through the desert or rode a dirt bike there? Even going through Yuma AZ the air box seems to fill with small amounts of sand... yes it makes it inside the housing. Now if that occurs (which it does) if an oil soaked filter is present IT will hold on to more than its dry counterpart. The dirt WILL stick to a "WET" filter AFTER the engine is shut off (Hence no suction the intake) on the dry IT will fall away/or out. If that wasn't true then why then does K&N state for desert environments use a "skin" for "added" protection? They are not better by any means over a good quality dry filter.
I believe you came here not adding anything other than "not wanting to be a ricer." Ironic since you more than likely you own a Japanese bike. Weird you're negativity towards Japanese yet you own there bikes..HUH?
Funny thing is your "ricer" comment is direct result of a "stupid rednecks" "PEP Boying out his Cavalier/Cobalt" to make it competitive with imports.
Now for your "shop work bench bucket" experiment. Your environment would not be a controlled one. We have done this several times over with standard practices for experiments in this manner. Please tell me how cutting off all moving air on an air filter is "Normal conditions"? The end results would be the similar for both, given the amount of measured debris prior to sealing off the bucket. But, that is not a good way doing it period it is rudimentary attempts such as those that give false results.
Let us do this instead...
Place a clear plastic bag over your head.
Have a child or adult throw,toss,sling,propel,hurl,chuck, or somehow kinetically move mud balls at your head.
Did any dirt/mud or like substance get on you?
Oh are you still able to breath? NO?
Your air filter doesn't remain in that state either.
So, your "shop work bench bucket" deal won't work.
Just giving my opinion back and since you didn't read the first post correctly. I am assured this one will be lightly skimmed as well. :p
Posted 22 December 2009 - 07:51 AM
whoa, sorry I must have struck a nerve. Calm down.
Ok, your example as to how dry filters are superior to oiled is they don't pick up dirt when parked.
Yes? That's what you said, right?
Now, before you blow a gasket again, a little about me:
I own many Japanese bikes and a Japanese car. There's a difference between owning a Japanese vehicle and being a ricer. Ricers like coffee can mufflers, stickers (not trying to start a fight here to be clear manufacturer decals on their cars as if they're sponsored, by both Toyo and Nitto - no less), neon lights, big wings. Get my drift?
Sleeper is the opposite of ricer.
And I did indeed add to the discussion. First off, I relayed that I use a K&N on my daily driver, how I did it and why I like it.
Secondly, I expressly encouraged the OP to do his research cause a lot of what's marketed exactly as he worded it, is junk.
Your experiment was as rudimentary as mine and it too leads to less than real world results. However, mine would be accurate for a "parked" condition.
As far as running condition goes, this will depend entirely upon the construction of the air box. Since the sand stays in the air box if it does fall down, it's going to end up on the filter again when the engine is running and the vehicle is bouncing around anyway.
Please skim this post and set the pressure cooker on high.
Ok, your example as to how dry filters are superior to oiled is they don't pick up dirt when parked.
bentsprocket said:
I've dealt with air filters in my career. Though it be industrial. The level of dry filters is much more efficient than wet (oil) ones. The life of the A/F is prolonged as well.
Here's an example why.
If you leave a dry filter in ambient conditions (i.e. parked) it will not hold on/attract as much dirt/dust particles as a wet "oiled" one will in those exact conditions. SEE WHY AND HOW BELOW
Pour oil on the ground in a 5 inch size puddle.
Now pour saw dust on and around it in about 10 inch size circle.
Note the amount of saw dust on that inner puddle and note the dust on the outer circle.
Which area has more saw dust? Hopefully about the same
NOW use a leaf blower or your breath move the saw dust away.
Which has more dust after you blow on it to remove the dust?
Here's an example why.
If you leave a dry filter in ambient conditions (i.e. parked) it will not hold on/attract as much dirt/dust particles as a wet "oiled" one will in those exact conditions. SEE WHY AND HOW BELOW
Pour oil on the ground in a 5 inch size puddle.
Now pour saw dust on and around it in about 10 inch size circle.
Note the amount of saw dust on that inner puddle and note the dust on the outer circle.
Which area has more saw dust? Hopefully about the same
NOW use a leaf blower or your breath move the saw dust away.
Which has more dust after you blow on it to remove the dust?
Now, before you blow a gasket again, a little about me:
I own many Japanese bikes and a Japanese car. There's a difference between owning a Japanese vehicle and being a ricer. Ricers like coffee can mufflers, stickers (not trying to start a fight here to be clear manufacturer decals on their cars as if they're sponsored, by both Toyo and Nitto - no less), neon lights, big wings. Get my drift?
Sleeper is the opposite of ricer.
And I did indeed add to the discussion. First off, I relayed that I use a K&N on my daily driver, how I did it and why I like it.
Secondly, I expressly encouraged the OP to do his research cause a lot of what's marketed exactly as he worded it, is junk.
Your experiment was as rudimentary as mine and it too leads to less than real world results. However, mine would be accurate for a "parked" condition.
As far as running condition goes, this will depend entirely upon the construction of the air box. Since the sand stays in the air box if it does fall down, it's going to end up on the filter again when the engine is running and the vehicle is bouncing around anyway.
Please skim this post and set the pressure cooker on high.
Posted 22 December 2009 - 09:25 AM
chickenhauler said:
Stock.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
Less to mess with.
The oil-style air filters are prone to being over-oiled and the oil being sucked into the intake ducting and gumming up sensors.
Oil bath air filters for road vehicles went away with points ignition and 6 volt positive ground electrical. Modern filter media manufacturing has made them obsolete and pointless.
agree 100%... now understand i am old.... but i bought my truck with a k&n on it.. i swapped it out with a younger guy for his stocker. My mileage also went up as i kept my foot out of it....
now in my younger days I also turned the air cleaner lids over to hear the 4bbl carb, but now that i have gotten older.....
i also am old enough to have had a truck with an oil bath..... Nasty stuff...
Posted 22 December 2009 - 08:41 PM
Smacaroni said:
whoa, sorry I must have struck a nerve. Calm down.
Ok, your example as to how dry filters are superior to oiled is they don't pick up dirt when parked.
Yes? That's what you said, right?
Now, before you blow a gasket again, a little about me:
I own many Japanese bikes and a Japanese car. There's a difference between owning a Japanese vehicle and being a ricer. Ricers like coffee can mufflers, stickers (not trying to start a fight here to be clear manufacturer decals on their cars as if they're sponsored, by both Toyo and Nitto - no less), neon lights, big wings. Get my drift?
Sleeper is the opposite of ricer.
And I did indeed add to the discussion. First off, I relayed that I use a K&N on my daily driver, how I did it and why I like it.
Secondly, I expressly encouraged the OP to do his research cause a lot of what's marketed exactly as he worded it, is junk.
Your experiment was as rudimentary as mine and it too leads to less than real world results. However, mine would be accurate for a "parked" condition.
As far as running condition goes, this will depend entirely upon the construction of the air box. Since the sand stays in the air box if it does fall down, it's going to end up on the filter again when the engine is running and the vehicle is bouncing around anyway.
Please skim this post and set the pressure cooker on high.
Ok, your example as to how dry filters are superior to oiled is they don't pick up dirt when parked.
Yes? That's what you said, right?
Now, before you blow a gasket again, a little about me:
I own many Japanese bikes and a Japanese car. There's a difference between owning a Japanese vehicle and being a ricer. Ricers like coffee can mufflers, stickers (not trying to start a fight here to be clear manufacturer decals on their cars as if they're sponsored, by both Toyo and Nitto - no less), neon lights, big wings. Get my drift?
Sleeper is the opposite of ricer.
And I did indeed add to the discussion. First off, I relayed that I use a K&N on my daily driver, how I did it and why I like it.
Secondly, I expressly encouraged the OP to do his research cause a lot of what's marketed exactly as he worded it, is junk.
Your experiment was as rudimentary as mine and it too leads to less than real world results. However, mine would be accurate for a "parked" condition.
As far as running condition goes, this will depend entirely upon the construction of the air box. Since the sand stays in the air box if it does fall down, it's going to end up on the filter again when the engine is running and the vehicle is bouncing around anyway.
Please skim this post and set the pressure cooker on high.
I will let you stand in this all by yourself. I am not blowing out gaskets on you, just saying. It may have came abrasive to you but, that was not the intent. Informative at best. I will not continue to this you anymore. Some say it as "agree to disagree". Internet arguing is stupid... well just that.
