Wisdom Requested for a Teardown
Posted September 20, 2000 - 05:23 PM
Thank you for taking the time to answering my questions.
The riding season here in NY is coming to a close in the next 3-4 weeks, and I'd like to do a complete teardown on this bike and prep her for winter. This is what I have thought of. I'd appreciate your candid feelings on yeas, or nays, do's and don'ts...
1. Remove, inspect hubs
2. Change Sprokets
3. Change Chain, Chain Guides
4. Remove Swingarm
4. Inspect Swingarm bearings/bushings, replace if necessary, lube well.
5. Clutch rebuild w/Hinson Basket
6. Inspect front hub
7. Replace stock exhaust with either Pro-T4
8. Check fuel tank.
9. Front Forks
10. Front steering bearings.
Now for what will probably be viewed as typical dumb rookie questions...yes Im laughing too!
What do y'all suggest for sprocket sets?
What do y'all suggest for chain sets, and how many links on YZ426....sounds familiar don't it...how many licks to the center of a tootsie pop...sorry.
Replacing the Basket is fine...what about pressure plates, etc. Stock Yammies, or is there a better aftermarket substitute?
What type of Lube oil do you recommend for the bushings, bearings, etc.
What can you offer about the fork oil changing?
I use stock Yammie oil filters. I've heard both sides of the argument concerning their effective filtration ( microns ). Any suggestions here?
Any special tools needed for the above?
Have I left anything out?
I appreciate all that anyone can offer up!
Thank you so much!
Yes I did read the forumn on what to do to a new bike...
Posted September 20, 2000 - 07:46 PM
Hey there. I thought I'd throw in my .03 cents for your concerns.
As far as inspecting your hubs, I wouldn't worry too much about those unless your rear sprocket has come loose before. Just make a quick look at it when taking off the rear sprocket for replacement.
Now, as far as gearing, the stock gearing I believe is 14-49, but don't quote me on that. I know my brother is going with a 14-50, so up one in the rear for a little more torque off the bottom. Who really needs to go 90mph on a motocross track? I would definitely change the rear sprocket bolts and nuts as a precautionary measure though. Also, use a locktite substance on them when assembling. Torque them to the required spec's, don't overtighten, as the locktite is designed to keep them in place. I think some guys were using red locktite. I'd ask others about this though. Red loctite is very hard to get loose once you use it. So, maybe blue would be better.
As far as your chain, I went with an O-Ring 520 DID chain. I think it's 114 links, but the shop will know when you tell them what bike it's for. The master links are kind a pain to get on since the have to be pressed together. Be sure to use the O-Rings they give you for the master link. Also, make sure your chain is properly tensioned. I use the three finger rule too, but if you have to measure, then measure. Check the manual on correct adjustment. The O-Ring won't stretch like the stocker and it will make your sprockets last longer. Just be aware, when pressure washing, be careful not to blast the chain since the O-Rings can be hurt by that kind of pressure. Just throw some WD40 on it after you wash the bike and she'll be ready to ride for your next outing.
Swingarm: Take the rear linkage apart and pull the swingarm off of the bike. Be carefully since there are loose needle bearings in most of these, so all you really need to do is wipe out the stuff if it still looks clean and apply some Bel Ray waterproof grease to all of your pivots. You shouldn't have to replace any of those bearings. Just lube them and reassemble.
Do the same for the headset. This is a little tougher, but just have someone help you, since the forks and bottom triple clamp will want to fall away from the bike when your getting to the bottom bearings. Reassemble and remember to leave the headset a tiny bit loose when tighting the top triple clamp bolt, since this will tighten it up a little once torqued. Then be sure you properly torque your top triple clamp bolts around your forks to 17 ft. lbs..
Clutch: Replace that clutch hub with a Hinson. This take a little mechanical know how since you have to remove the gear off of the stock hub. Your Hinson will come with directions, but you may want to have a shop grind off the rivets for you. You'll either need a grinder or a large drill bit to get the rivets off. I've also heard of guys drilling from the inside of the basket since you know your not going to reuse the thing, just drill the heads of the rivets off so you can get the rear gear and springs off it to put on the Hinson. Use red locktite again on the three Hinson bolts to assemble the gear and spring plate to the new basket.
I would definitely stick with stock Yamaha OEM clutch plates. Just replace the fibers, you should be able to reuse your steel plates that you currently have. Other's can comment on this if they'd like. When I replaced my Hinson, I only had one ride on my bike, so my fiber and steel plates didn't have any real wear on them. If your clutch is making all kinds of noise right now, I may just say replace all of the fibers and the steels to be safe. It will work great once you have the Hinson in there.
I wouldn't worry about your gas tank unless you visibly see gas leaking or you can smell it over the smell of your three week old jersey.
You could replace the fork oil with some good Golden Specto stuff. Not sure what they use as the stock fork oil weight though. Check the manual on that and on how the fork oil levels should read.
Other than that Randy, I wouldn't worry about much else. The stock air filters are fine and I bought a Uni Filter to have just so I don't have to wait for one to dry to put a new filter in. Do make sure to put grease on the lip though when putting a fresh filter back in, along with the proper amount of filter oil of course.
Let me know if you have any other Q's. I'm happy to help. My info may be a little off and all you other guys can correct me if you'd like. I'm not perfect, never claimed to be.
Posted September 20, 2000 - 07:52 PM
Posted September 21, 2000 - 06:53 AM
That’s a lot of questions.
That’s a lot of answers
One of the things I love about Regina o-ring chains is the master link is easy to get on and off, you don’t need a press (like on a DID).
You may want to also try a Sidewinder stainless rear sprocket. They are considerably heavier than a Renthal but I am amazed at how well the one I have is wearing. Well worth the extra $$ IMO, although I still use Renthals front and back too.
As for the arm guard mine only lasted a month. T.M. Designworks makes a replacement that looks like it will outlast the bike, about $70 I think. The stocker is around $30. I don’t have the number for T.M. but Montclair Yam carries their stuff 800-743-3926. They also make rollers and a solid plastic guide. All four as a kit goes for over $200 (ouch). I bought it but my guide was pretty bent up.
Pipes are all about personal preference IMO. I have a PC T4 and I love the better low and mid power. Pipes won’t improve overall power but will change how it is delivered. As loud as your bike is stock most of the aftermarket pipes are louder (except maybe the WB Hawkins). My PC is noticeably louder than stock. It will make your ears ring with your helmet off. I think money spent here would be better put to use on a Scott’s stabilizer, but I have both. All the aftermarket headers pose a greater “pant-melting” threat than stocker. I resorted to header wrap after I ruined a pair of Thor vent pants
I replaced my clutch basket w/ Hinson after a good amount of hours (prob. at least 50) and my clutch looked fine, but I don’t moto. To me the clutch is the “don’t stall it” lever, I rarely slip it. If your discs are scratched and plates worn thin you should replace them. I think the stock parts work fine.
Hinson also makes (I believe) a pressure plate, I think it is around $175. I am still amazed at how much better my clutch works after changing the basket only, I don’t know what advantage the Hinson pressure plate offers (but I’m sure it is sturdy). While you are checking your clutch check the torque on the main gear retaining nut, mine was loose. If it is loose then you should also check/replace the straight key that holds the counterbalancer drive gear (behind main gear). I’ve probably mentioned this a hundred times here. Anyone tired of hearing it yet? Maybe a pic of my rounded off key needs to go in the tech section…
I can’t think of anything else except lubing your cables, use silicone lube and not petro based (like WD-40). If you are going to be storing the bike for awhile you may want to squirt a little oil in the cylinder and then find TDC (to close the valves).
I’ve changed my front brake fluid out but not the rear. There are a million tricks and tools to aid in bleeding, I just used firm resolve, determination and patience (I bled them over and over again). I did use a large syringe (Hicks use large syringes on cattle and dirt bikes, not themselves ) to fill the master cylinder from the bottom up (shoot fluid in bleeder hole). Then I held the master up and tapped the line to get bubbles out. This helps but you still need to bleed and rebleed, IMO, to get them working right.
That’s all I can think of…
[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 09-21-2000).]
Posted September 21, 2000 - 02:03 PM
Posted September 21, 2000 - 02:51 PM
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