Thoughts on good choices for high-bend bars?



6 replies to this topic
  • bart9505

Posted April 02, 2001 - 03:00 PM

#1

I'm 6'3" and am mostly arms and legs, so I need to get some more room. I've seen a lot of aftermarket high bars, but would like your thoughts on how certain brands hold up. I seem to bend mine everytime the bike thinks about falling over. (all low speed digressions so far) I would like to put a steering damper on in the future, so I want one that works with a damper. I'm also curious if the damper requires the removal of the trip meter or speedo.
On a side note, I've read the post about modifying the pegs to drop them to the lower part of the existing bracket, but I was wondering if there are any other options to drop the pegs.
I've also seen comments about adjusting the valve clearance. How do I know when this needs to be done? I have a little over 100 miles on the bike, over several short, relatively low speed western washington trail rides.

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  • bart9505

Posted April 02, 2001 - 03:05 PM

#2

Hey, now the signature is on.

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'01 426 with yz stop and baffle removed. No other mods yet.

  • Brian_in_Long_Beach

Posted April 02, 2001 - 03:14 PM

#3

do a search on my name & you'll come up with plenty of info.

Brian

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Marty

Posted April 02, 2001 - 03:30 PM

#4

Hey Bart,
I got a little bored sunday night (between hours midnight and 4am) so I figured I would check out my valves, for giggles. I have 98 miles on my bike and they seem to be in check. Exactly what the book said it should be at so Im cool with it.

Marty

  • Bill

Posted April 02, 2001 - 04:16 PM

#5

I run the Renthal Jummy Button high bend. I have also just installed a Scotts steering damper. I don't care for the pro-Tapers style bars.....to flexy for me.

The damper fits fine and the cross bar pad still goes on, but adjustments are not "on the fly" any more. Of course the only time I "fly" is, going over the bars :)

Bill

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97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards, Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC.

  • mcarp

Posted April 02, 2001 - 04:50 PM

#6

Bart- A bunch of us had the same dilemna. Here's a cheap way to raise your bars.

If you don't buy the Scotts damper, but another set of top bar "C" clamps. Turn one pair upside down on the top triple clamp. Mount the bar with longer bolts (50mm) and the new clamps on top.

If you do buy the damper, take the original
clamps, turn them upside down and use the Scotts top bracket on top. Buy the same longer bolts. This will raise the bars around .75-1.0".

I don't have pics on a website, but I can email you one if you want to see what I mean.
I'm 6'1.5" with long arms and legs too.

If you don't go this route, the Jimmy Button highs are about the highest you can get. I use the Jermey McGrath renthal (close to standard bend) with the above mentioned risers.

Godspeed, and let me know if you need pics (send me an email at: mcarpent@uu.net)

  • Ben_from_London

Posted April 03, 2001 - 05:12 AM

#7

I use TAG T2 'Double Hi CR bend' (115mm) these are the highest tapered bar I found (no crossbar good for use with a damper) and without too much sweep (62mm). I'm 6'3" and also have applied clamps with +15 bar clamps and special spacers (10mm) made from machined old bar clamps. Works great for me, Loads of room, can ride in the standing position all day long with no aches.

[This message has been edited by Ben from London (edited 04-03-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Ben from London (edited 04-04-2001).]




 
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