Is there a product that your shade tree mechanic can use to thoroughly flush the coolant system? My heater core is marginal on functionality and I'm having other poor coolant flow problems. Engine is fine, but the other stuff isn't so great. I don't think the standard water flush is going to be enough.
Extreme Coolant Flush
Started by Smacaroni, Dec 07 2009 09:28 AM
13 replies to this topic
Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:28 AM
Is there a product that your shade tree mechanic can use to thoroughly flush the coolant system? My heater core is marginal on functionality and I'm having other poor coolant flow problems. Engine is fine, but the other stuff isn't so great. I don't think the standard water flush is going to be enough.
Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:32 AM
use air and water. make a nozzle from adaptors . easy on the air, but it should clear it out. I'm a mechanis and we use this method at work and it works great. take both heater hoses off and flush both ways. water than little shots of air. (IF YOU GO TO CRAZY WITH THE AIR THERE IS A CHANCE YOU COULD BLOW THE HEATER CORE) Fords and chevy blazers need it all the time. and if you have dexcool antifreeze in it flush it all out and put green back in,DEXCOOL is very corrosive and this is why the heater core plugs up.
Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:50 AM
This is a 90 Mazda Miata which crossed the 300,000 mile mark around Thanksgiving.
The biggest problem I have, is the mechanism for the ECU to adjust the idle depends on coolant. Don't ask me why, this is what I've been told. Since it's not getting any, or not getting much, the idle is currently 2,300 RPM. I've been told I should replace that, but since the heater core is also not getting much, I figured I'd try a real good flush first.
How do you suggest I clear out that throttle dealie?
How much is crazy on air pressure? 20 PSI? (rad cap is 15, IIRC)
The biggest problem I have, is the mechanism for the ECU to adjust the idle depends on coolant. Don't ask me why, this is what I've been told. Since it's not getting any, or not getting much, the idle is currently 2,300 RPM. I've been told I should replace that, but since the heater core is also not getting much, I figured I'd try a real good flush first.
How do you suggest I clear out that throttle dealie?
How much is crazy on air pressure? 20 PSI? (rad cap is 15, IIRC)
Posted 07 December 2009 - 08:17 PM
well my compressor will put out 175psi, so I do slow shots just to push the water more rapidly.I've never heard of the coolant temp adusting idle speed?and I'vebeen in this business awhile. to me it sounds like you have a vacuum/intake leak. If by chance the idle is controlled by coolant temp you would more than likely need to replace the ECT sensor
Posted 08 December 2009 - 04:31 AM
It didn't make sense to me either. This is the info I got from my mechanic/salvage guy. He knows I do most of my own work and I'm a loyal customer. He's been in business 30-some odd years. I trust him.
Also, he's one of my web work clients, so we have a stronger than average relationship. However, it's entirely possible that I'm not relaying the information correctly.
Also, he's one of my web work clients, so we have a stronger than average relationship. However, it's entirely possible that I'm not relaying the information correctly.
Posted 08 December 2009 - 04:36 AM
When a vehicle is first started it is in closed loop until it reaches operating temperature. When the vehicle is in closed loop it has a higher idle to help warm the engine up. The PCM needs to see a certain temp from the ECT to bring it out of closed loop so if his ECT sensor is not functioning properly the PCM wont see the required temperature to bring it out of closed loop and therefore he will have a higher idle.
Posted 08 December 2009 - 04:58 AM
So like the old school vacuum/bi-metal spring choke on the carb. That makes sense.
Still got a gummed up heater core, not bad at 30 degrees (-1C), 10 degrees (-12C) that's a different story.
Still got a gummed up heater core, not bad at 30 degrees (-1C), 10 degrees (-12C) that's a different story.
Posted 08 December 2009 - 07:15 AM
I had a significantly plugged radiator once on a toyota.
And the only thing that made it right was the chemical vat at a radiator shop.
Corrossion and buildup is firmly attached.......not like some easily cleared hairball stuck in a sink drain line.
BB
And the only thing that made it right was the chemical vat at a radiator shop.
Corrossion and buildup is firmly attached.......not like some easily cleared hairball stuck in a sink drain line.
BB
Posted 08 December 2009 - 08:17 PM
BlackBuzzard said:
I had a significantly plugged radiator once on a toyota.
And the only thing that made it right was the chemical vat at a radiator shop.
Corrossion and buildup is firmly attached.......not like some easily cleared hairball stuck in a sink drain line.
BB
And the only thing that made it right was the chemical vat at a radiator shop.
Corrossion and buildup is firmly attached.......not like some easily cleared hairball stuck in a sink drain line.
BB
There are some stronger, more acidic flushing chemicals out there, but there is a risk that if the HC is that corroded inside, that this will eat right through what metal is remaining.
Posted 08 December 2009 - 09:09 PM
Disconnect the heater core at the fire wall (in & out) and flush it with a garden hose. Flush it until you see clear water coming out. You can also do the same with the cooling system. Just remove the thermostat first. (don't use cold water on a hot engine block)
IMO if the car is not over heating then the rad is probably not that plugged yet. Just remember Force = pressure x area (F=PxA) If you use compressed air to blow out the heater core are its clogged good you will pop it like an over inflated balloon. If you do go that route use a regulator and drop the shop air down to about 10psi.
KC
IMO if the car is not over heating then the rad is probably not that plugged yet. Just remember Force = pressure x area (F=PxA) If you use compressed air to blow out the heater core are its clogged good you will pop it like an over inflated balloon. If you do go that route use a regulator and drop the shop air down to about 10psi.
KC
Posted 09 December 2009 - 05:13 AM
shouldn't it be able to handle more than 10 PSI since the radiator cap is rated at 15?
And I think it's F=P/A. 10PSI on a 2" diameter pneumatic cylinder (area is pi) = 31.4~ lbs.
And I think it's F=P/A. 10PSI on a 2" diameter pneumatic cylinder (area is pi) = 31.4~ lbs.
Posted 09 December 2009 - 11:09 AM
15 psi is max system pressure. If your heater core has over 300k miles there is a good chance its rotted out. 15 psi might cause the heater core to leak.
Posted 10 December 2009 - 04:47 AM
CRAP! Crap, crap. It never occurred to me until now, but the heater core most likely IS rotted out. When I run the heater, occasionally I get a whiff of antifreeze. That's gonna be a pain in the butt to replace. Crap.
And on top of all that, I threw one out a few weeks ago that possibly was in better shape than mine. Crap. Crap, crap, crap.
Crap.
I think my best move at the moment would be to leave it alone, get my hands on a replacement and when I feel like spending six hours tearing my dashboard apart and putting it back together again, replace it.
And on top of all that, I threw one out a few weeks ago that possibly was in better shape than mine. Crap. Crap, crap, crap.
Crap.
I think my best move at the moment would be to leave it alone, get my hands on a replacement and when I feel like spending six hours tearing my dashboard apart and putting it back together again, replace it.
Posted 10 December 2009 - 09:36 AM
Smacaroni said:
CRAP! Crap, crap. It never occurred to me until now, but the heater core most likely IS rotted out. When I run the heater, occasionally I get a whiff of antifreeze. That's gonna be a pain in the butt to replace. Crap.
And on top of all that, I threw one out a few weeks ago that possibly was in better shape than mine. Crap. Crap, crap, crap.
Crap.
I think my best move at the moment would be to leave it alone, get my hands on a replacement and when I feel like spending six hours tearing my dashboard apart and putting it back together again, replace it.
And on top of all that, I threw one out a few weeks ago that possibly was in better shape than mine. Crap. Crap, crap, crap.
Crap.
I think my best move at the moment would be to leave it alone, get my hands on a replacement and when I feel like spending six hours tearing my dashboard apart and putting it back together again, replace it.
You want to put a new one anyway. Alot of work to put a used one in that might last a week.
