longer rear brake pedal


19 replies to this topic
  • cjxrider125

Posted December 05, 2009 - 12:50 AM

#1

i seem to be having a problem with dragging the rear brake with my boot. i wear a size 12, never had a problem with this until i bougt my 09. i suspect it has something to do with the fat pegs... im probly riding with a different foot position. anyways has anyone seen a longer brake pedal on the market that looks stock?

ps. i have also tried lowering it a few mm's but didnt really like how it felt.

  • stealman

Posted December 05, 2009 - 07:47 AM

#2

You can drill the rivet out that holds the part that you put your toe on and move it forward on the arm and bolt it on. There is another hole already there. This moves this part of the lever forward about 3/8".

  • mxridr450

Posted December 05, 2009 - 08:32 AM

#3

hammerhead designs makes all sorts of shifters and brake levers to accomodate for shoe size and what not....i know you said you wanted a stock design, but heres a solution that i know

  • FinchFan194

Posted December 05, 2009 - 09:47 AM

#4

Are you riding on the ball of your foot? You could do that more and have less of a problem maybe.

  • cjxrider125

Posted December 05, 2009 - 02:25 PM

#5

Are you riding on the ball of your foot? You could do that more and have less of a problem maybe.


i have been trying to do that more but the problem is when im exiting right hand corners and im up on the tank looking to get my foot back on the peg, i always hit the brake by accident

  • FinchFan194

Posted December 05, 2009 - 06:58 PM

#6

i have been trying to do that more but the problem is when im exiting right hand corners and im up on the tank looking to get my foot back on the peg, i always hit the brake by accident


focus!

  • cjxrider125

Posted December 06, 2009 - 12:28 AM

#7

im so used to the honda's pedal which is a little over an inch longer... i wonder if i can bolt up one of those:thinking:

  • RCannon

Posted December 06, 2009 - 07:26 AM

#8

You can drill the rivet out that holds the part that you put your toe on and move it forward on the arm and bolt it on. There is another hole already there. This moves this part of the lever forward about 3/8".


Your kidding, I never noticed that????

  • stealman

Posted December 06, 2009 - 07:36 AM

#9

Your kidding, I never noticed that????


No I am not kidding. The second hole is not really to use in this way. But it totally woks fine and is easy to do. I just picked up a used 08 yz450 to to go along side my 06 yz250. The previous owner did this to the pedal and told me once I try it I will do it to all yz's. I didnt believe him because I have size 8 feet. But after ridding with the custom pedal I think I may do it to my other brake pedal.

RCannon, I thought you new everything about yz's. I have sure learned plenty from you.

  • RCannon

Posted December 06, 2009 - 09:07 AM

#10

No I am not kidding. The second hole is not really to use in this way. But it totally woks fine and is easy to do. I just picked up a used 08 yz450 to to go along side my 06 yz250. The previous owner did this to the pedal and told me once I try it I will do it to all yz's. I didnt believe him because I have size 8 feet. But after ridding with the custom pedal I think I may do it to my other brake pedal.

RCannon, I thought you new everything about yz's. I have sure learned plenty from you.


Its 10 degrees in my garage, but I'm ready to go for it. What did you use to replace the rivet? I suppose a small bolt would work????? The short brake pedal really feels short once wide pegs were added. I love the idea of a 25 cent solution!

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  • stealman

Posted December 06, 2009 - 10:52 AM

#11

Just a small bolt and nut.

  • RCannon

Posted December 06, 2009 - 11:18 AM

#12

Thats a neat project. I used a bolt from the garage and tapped the hole thats already in place. The mod moved the tip about the same 10mm that the 149.00 dollar hammerhead brake pedal costs. Thank You!

  • cjxrider125

Posted December 06, 2009 - 12:18 PM

#13

Thats a neat project. I used a bolt from the garage and tapped the hole thats already in place. The mod moved the tip about the same 10mm that the 149.00 dollar hammerhead brake pedal costs. Thank You!


can u post a pic please?

  • stealman

Posted December 06, 2009 - 02:20 PM

#14

Thats a neat project. I used a bolt from the garage and tapped the hole thats already in place. The mod moved the tip about the same 10mm that the 149.00 dollar hammerhead brake pedal costs. Thank You!


Thats rad that you already did the mod and in that cold garage and it sounds like you may have cleaned up the re-mount. I thought it was a cool trick when I saw it. Hard to believe that we have not seen other people talking about it on here. Did you tap the lever or the peddle? And I assume no nut just a bolt threaded into the lever portion?

  • RCannon

Posted December 06, 2009 - 03:45 PM

#15

Thats rad that you already did the mod and in that cold garage and it sounds like you may have cleaned up the re-mount. I thought it was a cool trick when I saw it. Hard to believe that we have not seen other people talking about it on here. Did you tap the lever or the peddle? And I assume no nut just a bolt threaded into the lever portion?


I just tapped the aluminum portion on the lever. I used a 5mm metric bolt and some loctite. It fits really well and makes the brake feel more powerful. Better leverage, maybe???

The odd thing was seeing the spare hole in the lever. I never noticed it at a casual glance. I did drill a tiny spot ont he very end to hold a nub that stops the tip from rotating, but that may nto have been necessary.



I took a picture. The black lien represents the stock tip position from the rear portion of the assembly.

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  • cjxrider125

Posted December 07, 2009 - 11:58 PM

#16

did u put a nut on the end of the screw? i just did mine w/o a nut but i threw some JB Weld on it

  • mxracer206

Posted December 08, 2009 - 03:37 AM

#17

Actually the sanitary way to do it is with another rivet. The ones used to replace most window regulators in cars is perfect. If your rivet gun can't handle a rivet that size I bet your local car repair shop will throw one on for you. Also don't forget to make an indention in the lever to accomadate the dimple in the tip.

  • RCannon

Posted December 08, 2009 - 04:52 AM

#18

Actually the sanitary way to do it is with another rivet. The ones used to replace most window regulators in cars is perfect. If your rivet gun can't handle a rivet that size I bet your local car repair shop will throw one on for you. Also don't forget to make an indention in the lever to accomadate the dimple in the tip.


I did make the dimple for the tip to sit in with a 1/8" drill bit, so no problems there...However,this rivet thing....The best I have access to is a light duty pop rivet gun. I doubt that will do it??????

I did use a grade 10.9 bolt with hex head threaded in the lever. No backing nut as I did not want it chewing the clutch cover. I used a spring washer and some blue loctite. 5x0.8 tapped and I did not even have to re-drill the hole. I hope it does not cause issues, but a new rivet sounds foolproof. I will ask around....THANK YOU!

This is a great mod, especially if a person went to wide footpegs. Visually its easy to see the pedal is in he proper position now. Between that and the Faastco return spring on the master cylinder, the brake now feels very respectable and less on/off switch feeling. The stock brake felt like a 2x4 in the spokes. I wear a size 11 boot and the pedal now sits under the ball of the foot instead of feeling like it was in the arch.

Once the stock tip is off, you can see that there was an alternate spot make for the tip...well, halfway made to go in the long position.

I wish I coudl have froze it into position..9 degrees outside would handle things!

  • cjxrider125

Posted December 10, 2009 - 01:27 PM

#19

do you think the screw will hold up just as well as the big rivot?

  • RCannon

Posted December 10, 2009 - 06:50 PM

#20

do you think the screw will hold up just as well as the big rivot?


I think its worth a try. The shape of the tip lets itself rest against the aluminum so its not as if the bolt is taking all of the force. Plus, it feels so much better I woudl replace it yearly rather than deal with the stock one.





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