Store my YZ450


6 replies to this topic
  • Nitrox

Posted November 23, 2009 - 07:08 PM

#1

I need to store my bike for 6 to 12 months. What type of storage prep should I do? I live in AZ so it's very dry.

Craig

  • davcon

Posted November 24, 2009 - 06:26 AM

#2

Drain all the fuel (tank, float bowl). WD-40 the chain and exposed metal. Do all your normal prep (oil, filter, air cleaner) so you know its ready to go when you get back!

  • Nitrox

Posted November 24, 2009 - 08:38 AM

#3

When you drain the carb, do you think there is more of a chance that o-rings, seals, gaskets will dry out and crack than if you left gas in it? Maybe drain prior to getting it ready to run again?

Would leaving fuel in with a stabilizer work better? I also remember when winterizing our boat that we would fog the engine with an oil till it died. Everything inside was coated with a oil. A pain to start in the spring and always required new plugs afterwards.

Any other thoughts?

cb

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  • Sparky_So_Cal

Posted November 24, 2009 - 04:49 PM

#4

I need to store my bike for 6 to 12 months. What type of storage prep should I do? I live in AZ so it's very dry.

Craig


Drive it to my house. I'll take care of it for you... :excuseme:

  • saccityfire

Posted November 24, 2009 - 08:03 PM

#5

I recommend NOT using WD40 for corrosion prevention. WD40 is a moisture remover and not a long term corrosion inhibitor. WD stand for Water Dispersion. I learned this the hard way by using it to prevent corrosion on my bike one year...Tons of rust and corroded aluminum later I realized my mistake.

I recommend removing the chain and soaking it in quality motor oil in a tupperware. All other exposed metal should be coated with the same oil or a light lithium based grease which will all wash off easily with some engine cleaner when you're ready to go again.

I like Sparky_So_Cal's plan the best though.

Good luck.

  • pscook

Posted November 25, 2009 - 03:53 PM

#6

Definitely drain the gas. If you don't, it will evaporate away leaving a thick nasty varnish. Fog the engine with a good marine fogging agent per the instructions and tape a new sparkplug to the tank or seat with the plug wrench for the moment you are ready to start it back up. Coat the chain with a good chain lube on both sides, you should be good. A lot of road racers have suggested filling the crankcase completely with oil, all of the way to the top so that your transmission and other parts don't have a half-n-half rust/clean situation.

My oil storage story: I bought an RZ350 from California, allegedly well taken care of. Very clean externally, but when I drained the oil from the gearbox this nasty goop came plopping out. I split the cases to discover that there was enough oil to submerge exactly half of the gears and bearings in the transmission, leaving the other half to happily gather enough rust to make the bearings notchy.

What I took from this experience is that if I plan on storing a bike for any length of time, fog the cylinder and top up the crank case to submerge as many bearings as you can. Oil is cheap, bearings, gaskets, and your time is not.

  • Nitrox

Posted November 27, 2009 - 01:20 PM

#7

Thanks all,

Drain the gas, fog the engine and a good maintenance sounds like the process. Hope I can stay off of it till next year!

Craig





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