Hi all,

In preparation of becoming a site vendor, I'm working on some of my vapor dash mounts for the DRZ. My bike has the standard 7/8" bars, and that's what my part is made to fit. But before I run a batch of these... I thought I would ask what the bolt measurement is on a bike with the fat bars.

So... if you have a newer bike with factory fat bars... and you have a set of calipers... can someone give me the center to center measurement on the front handlebar clamp bolts?

Thanks in advance.

Just an FYI... I'm making up a set with and without the indicator lights, and will be anodized in black, blue and red. (and any other color on request) Hopefully by the time these are done, the admins will have the vendor site running. :thumbsup:

my bike is a 09SM so its got the 1 1/8 bar right? if so ill measure it tonight, someone else will probibly help ya sooner tho.

dinoman55 said:

Yes it should... Thanks :thumbsup:

ok so finally got to it, and my caliper's battery is dead.
tried to just read it but its not too accurate but as far as i can tell ya its. 96mm wide, and 40mm tall.I know lame but best i could do, sorry i couldnt do better.
Looks like a good product, ill probibly hit you up for one in the coming months.
height:

width:



dam pictures suck too:banghead:

Dinoman55...

Thanks :thumbsup:

That's the same width as the 7/8th bars... so one mount will fit both. Once I get set up, and I'm able to take some orders... remind me, and I'll send you a new battery for your calipers. :p

Tip on the pics: on your camera, there is a button with a little flower on it. If you push that, it will let you take close-up pictures.

haha thanks, yea it was on the flower, just a real shoddy camera

hey have these mounts come in to production? im in need of one just like this at the moment

Yes, but I'm still waiting on the site owner to implement the store front system.

Note: the SM's with fatty's have the "clamp" system that clamps across all 4 bolts similar to this.....



You might want to include spacers as you cant just use the top 2 bolts.

Bice part from the picture looks pretty clean. How thick did you go?

Here's one from Josh19k shows the stock clamp and his vapor mount on the SM. Dont know what the plastic bracket on the clamp is for, maybe a GPS?

http://im1.shutterfl...3D550/ry%3D400/

This one is from Keelow:



If you go off the stock speedo mounts with that 90 degree bend you can use the same part for S and SM unless they go with an aftermarket upper triple that doesnt have the mounts.

My DTD and the Zeta ones both retain it.


Sorry, cant help chiming in I'm an industrial designer!

Goebz...

On the first pic... what would the "Spacers" need to be? It looks as if nothing wold get into the way? Please elaborate. Is the OE clamp countersunk?

I was going to make one up with a bend... but I didn't feel like making a bending jig for the small production levels I would be dealing with, so the flat to the top mounts was quick and easy. (needed it to finish my project)

I'm using 0.1875 (3/16) but I mill off 0.020 to give it a nice machine finish on the face... but it backfired on me. I got a little chatter in the cut. The hand full I made up are functional... but not as pretty as I wanted them to be.

I'll post a pic later today.

I think these look great and someday I would like to install a vapor. Have you thought about making some with a marine 12 volt power supply (cig lighter) to run a gps or cell phone etc?

And/or....Someone on TT made a one off ignition switch bracket with a marine 12 volt power supply that kept the sock instument cluster?

Just some ideas:banana:

EDIT: here it is

http://www.thumperta...ight=marine+gps

Here's a pic of my pre-production parts. I made a few, and sent them to get anodized to see if I liked them.

Nice, man!

Nice design, Tony.

I think the appearance of the cosmetic surface could be improved by putting a brushed finish on it before anodizing. You could save some machine time by not facing the part - leave the surface in the mill finish until you brush it.

Brushing could easily be accomplished by light pressure on a belt sander, or perhaps a flap wheel on a pedestal grinder.

It would also cut down on reflections.

Another thought would be to use a very large diameter fly cutter to put a consistent texture on it.

Thinking waaaay outside the box, if you're using CNC, an engine-turned finish would be dead easy programming. (like the cowl on Lindberg's Spirit of America) Clamp a pot of fine valve grinding compound in a known spot, put a 3/4" wooden dowel in the tool changer, and program the step-over, and a dip in the compound!

Roadracer Al...

You are right. I don't like the top either. I made up a few to see if I was going to like it. The real problem is, I was getting a little tool chatter because the plate was so thin. (it needed better support) if you look just under where the indicator lights would go... you can see a spot that is not uniform. They are functional, but not as pretty as I wanted them to be.

I think... in the future, I will just give it a "Brushed" look. If you look at my original part... that's what I did, but when I tweaked the program, I added the surface cut. Originally, it was with a 4" face cutter, but the chatter was even worse, so I changed to a 3/4 endmill.

I've done a burnished look on a few custom parts for people. Normally I use an abrasive cup brush, and have it just poke the surface with an overlap, but for a part like this... it would add $5 to the end price. (time on the mill)

I think I'm going to put a blue one on my Bike tonight, just to see what it looks like.

Once I get set up here, I'll sell these ones cheap, and probably change the final product. (brushed surface, and a little bevel on the edge)

Looks good! Post a pic of how the blue one looks on your bike. Im starting to think about getting a vapor now..

Here's a pic of the blue one mounted on my bike. Sorry for the crappy lighting. (with and without the flash) I'll take a better pic once the sun comes out.

I second the request, with all the folks putting 12v accessory outlets on their DRZs, it might be good (if possible given space constraints) if you left a little metal above the keyswitch for a 12v accessory outlet. Or not, up to you of course, but I think it'd be a great addition.

Spacers would be so all the bolt heads are at the same level, I'm kind of anal that way.