400 vs 426 vs 450



13 replies to this topic
  • Henrik

Posted April 24, 2003 - 07:33 PM

#1

Ok, so I was going to buy a '01 426, YZ or WR. Now, I can't find one that is in my price range. So - what about a 400? Besides the power - what are the main differences?

Oh, and another thing - if I can't get my hands on a WR...Is there anyway I can convert my YZ to a WR besides the gearbox?? I was thinking electricsystem (lights and so on...)

  • Indy_WR450

Posted April 25, 2003 - 07:36 AM

#2

They are all very good and can be made to be competitive with each other. Just find the one in the best condition and be happy. You wont feel that much difference if they are jetted right they all run fast. :)

  • Sean_McCutcheon

Posted April 25, 2003 - 07:49 AM

#3

I own a 2000 WR400 and a buddy of mine has a 2002 WR426. There is no difference in power. The only thing I know is different is that you can get to the oil filter without taking the header off on the 426. Also his might be a little bit lighter. I do know they both have plenty of punch.

  • Henrik

Posted April 25, 2003 - 08:54 AM

#4

Ok...What about the wheels? Are they interchangeable between the 426 and 400?`I saw an add that stated that Yammi changed something on the 99 YZ and 00 WR and that the newer wheels wouldn't fit the older bikes. True or false? Big difference? I was thinking of a set of motard wheels (well ok, if I buy a brand new set this won't be any concern). Also - I'm not sure what to buy. YZ or WR. Mainly, I'd like a YZ with lights...Just a teenie-tiny front light and a brake light...Possible on a YZ or? Any solutions?? I really don't want to ride around with a battery - it doesn't have a starter so why should I...Do I need the WR stator/coil or is there someother "thingy" I could hook up??

  • Henrik

Posted April 25, 2003 - 09:09 AM

#5

Ok... I checked out www.electrexusa.com and their Dualsport kit looks ok. Onething though - why do you have to modify the WR stator/coil?? Just curious...

  • JamesD

Posted April 25, 2003 - 12:00 PM

#6

The stator mod is an AC vs DC thing if I remember right.

  • Gadsen

Posted April 25, 2003 - 04:36 PM

#7

All stators produce AC, it will be rectified via a rectifier, usually done with diodes. The WR coil should be OK, but for brighter lighting, ie 50-60 watts VS 30 watts, it need to be rewound. Another outfit is the baja kits also. You can pick these up from http://www.bajadesigns.com/ and they will have a complete kit for about $450, but if its only a light and a rear running lamp, you can buy just what you need. The entire kit is what is requires to make it street legal, lots more than you'd need. :)

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  • JamesD

Posted April 25, 2003 - 05:55 PM

#8

Here is what the docs say about the stator mod:

"Fortunately, Yamaha made the WR stator powerful enough to run a dual sport lighting kit. Unfortunately, they grounded the lighting coil to chassis. This ground needs to be disconnected so that we can rectify the alternator's output to DC."

  • JamesD

Posted April 26, 2003 - 05:13 PM

#9

Mainly, I'd like a YZ with lights...Just a teenie-tiny front light and a brake light...Possible on a YZ or?



FWIW, the WR has a heavier flywheel, different cam timing, coolant overflow/reclaim container, different gearing, stator to drive lights, lights and a spark arrestor.

For long rides the coolant catcher is nice. The heavier flywheel reduces wheel spin. The cam timing adds torque but at the expense of some power so it's a trade off (easily changed for $0). A YZ would need a different stator and lights. If you want to trail ride you should have a spark arrestor.

If trails are what you want the WR is the better option. If you don't need some of it's features a YZ is fine. Adding WR features to a YZ can add up $$$ fast.

  • bigdev426

Posted April 28, 2003 - 05:03 PM

#10

I have a 2002 wr426 and my dad has a 03 wr450. He previously road the 426 and he says there is little or no difference in power. i think his wieghs less though.

  • Cideous

Posted April 28, 2003 - 05:19 PM

#11

I have just returned to dirtbikes after about a 10 year layoff. I first bought a 2001 CR250r...I didn't like it. Not one bit. Freaky 2 stroke hit, and a *VERY* cramped riding space. I rode it about 5x and tried very hard to like it. I just didn't. Disheartened I sold it and took a few months off to think about my next purchase. I didn't find it, it found me. A 2002 WR426F that had 43 miles on it...basically in new condition. The front tire still had the injection moldie things still on it, and the back tire looked new. I got it for a very good price $4300, as the new WR450's are going for over 6k. Still not sure if I was going to like it, I just couldn't pass it up. I have ridden now 5 good rides on it, and I can tell you from a squiddy, newbie, out of shape, just returning to the sport perspective. The bike just rocks! It fits me *perfect* <6'3", 250lb>. The power is tracktable, smooth and very predictable. I am much much faster on it then the CR, simply because it is predictable. I know what I am going to get and how much I am going to get when I twist that throttle. I'm sure this is true for all 4 strokes, but I have no desire to make mine a yz timed bike, as I am in love with it just like it is. Oh..and it starts first kick virtually every time. I just memorized the start procedure from Yamaha's webisite and it works like a charm. I'm sure the 450 is a great bike, but for me..and the price, I am very happy and I dont miss the electric start at all. I can't wait to start running in enduros. :)

Good luck!

  • Gadsen

Posted May 01, 2003 - 06:50 PM

#12

You will only need to remove the ground if you want to use a "full wave" rectifier, but one side grounded, you can still change it to DC with a half wave rectifier. :) Basically, just run the output through a diode with enough rating to handle the load, the end of the diode without the stripe goes toward the stator, the end of the diode with the line goes to the accessories (anode and cathode). Ideally, would be a full wave, this will take some of the flat areas or ripple out of the DC, but I'm sure its not real critical on a dirt bike anyway. :D

  • JamesD

Posted May 02, 2003 - 08:20 AM

#13

I figured the stator mod was only needed for their setup but never thought about what would need changed.

All you'd need to do to one of the DS kits is add the proper diode to the wire that attaches to the new wire you add to the stator and then attach it to the frame (ground) instead.

However... wouldn't this cut the power generated in half?
The battery (or a capacitor?) would even out the pulses.

  • Don400426

Posted May 05, 2003 - 12:19 AM

#14

Hi, I've been riding a 2000 WR400 for the last year & just got a late 2002 426 - They are very different:-
1/. Big power difference - my 426 will generally pull 1 gear higher than the 400 at low speeds. (top speed is about the same).
2/. 426 runs erratic at a constant throttle opening (hunts) I'm told this is std. I haven't cured this yet.
3/. my 426 is unstable at high speed - it goes into a 'tank slapper' when riding over small ridges (on road above 60mph).
4/. swing arm & suspension linkage is different.
Both bikes have same tyres & suspension set up & both have airbox top removed & engine breather re-routed into airbox (400 sucked water up into the engine when riding in a stream at Isle of Man last year - needed instant oil change).The 400 has tapered titanium header & white bros silencer renthall bars.426 has std. exhaust, aero tapered bars (these make bars @1" higher on std. top yoke due to risers).
Off road the 426 is much better, on road I prefer the 400.
Hope this info. helps you. I'm off mud digging now - Cheers - Don.




 
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