Bark Busters & Brake Pads

8 replies to this topic
  • Rokatt88

Posted April 24, 2003 - 08:24 AM


All righty then! The Tusk D-Flex hand guards and brake pads for my BRP & my son's KDX 200 should be coming in from Rocky Mountain any day now. Need some input.

Hand Guards: When I take off the stock plastic hand guards, do I need to change or modify the bolts that hold them on the clutch and brake perches? Do I just unbolt, yank the old ones off and re-bolt? I know a lot off you guys run the hand savers. Any hot tips or suggestions for making a sano insallation?

Brake pads: I have never changed brake pads on a bike before. Seems pretty basic. Any tips or suggestions here as well?

Bleeding Brakes: What's the best way?

Thanks in adavance for any and all input, comments, etc. :)

  • sunnymex

Posted April 24, 2003 - 09:08 AM



Alllll rigghhhttyyy then. Here are my two cents on your ideas.

Hand guards. My friend kept his same bolt without any mods. Should work just fine. HOWEVER, the problems that I have seen with the hand guards that bolt on to the end of the bars is that is for some reason they get hit really hard they may bend and make your throttle stick. This can come as quite a surprise when you want to slow down going into that corner and then realize that you are stuck with your throttle wide open. I have decided to keep my stock guards. So far thay have worked great. I don't really do much woods riding, so I have never needed much more than what comes with the bike.

Brake Pads- Pretty simple, just take the old ones out and put the new ones in. Important note. When you have the calipers away from the brake rotor/disc, it is advisable not to pull in the brake lever as it can cause them to collaps. Then you have to mess in there with a screw driver and sometimes even have to re-bleed the brake lines.

Bleeding the brakes- Don't mess with it. Just kidding. Not that dificult, just takes time. It is much simple to do it with two people. There is a little bleed valve on the brake calipers that when opened releases pressure on the system. What will happen when you open it is that the brake fluid will squirt out. Stand back, it can come quickly sometimes. I would have a good rag standing by somewhere. If your brakes are soft have someone pump the brake a few times and then hold it in. While it is held in, open and let a little fluid out. Be careful not to let too much out or else you will have to put more liquid in the resevoir up top. Repeat the process until the brakes become as hard as you desire. Should not take you more than 15-20 minutes. Be sure to have someone help you it makes it a lot easier. Good luck.

When are you heading south. There is a race in about 10 days you should come down for it. Should be fun.

  • Rokatt88

Posted April 24, 2003 - 09:21 AM


Sunny Buddy!

Thanks for the input. Yeah, I wish I could make Dos Mares. I WILL make it down to ride with you, I just don't know when! It is one of my goals in life to do some rides in Baja. I have yet to do it so you KNOW I hafta! Plus we need to buy each other rounds of Brain Erasers! :D Ooooooh DOCTOR! :) :D

  • sunnymex

Posted April 24, 2003 - 09:29 AM



We are going to ride the Baja 500 at the and of May also. Should be fun pre-running it also. Anyhow, talk to you later. Good riding.

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  • stonewall

Posted April 24, 2003 - 10:09 AM


Hey Rokatt
The stock lever bolts will work fine after you take the hanguards off but you may want to get some bolts from a CR so they don't stick up so far. I went over the bars once in a GNCC and the bolt broke a finger and peeled the skin to the bone on a couple of others. It made for a long drive home. :)
Make sure you get the throttle tube cut right and install the guard so it doesn't cause it to stick. Most guards have a spacer to prevent this.
The brakes are real basic but make sure you pump the lever and pedal a few times after you install the new pads to get them back against the rotor. I know it sounds stupid but it can save you from providing entertainment for all the bystanders when you decide to blast down the street after installing your new stuff. :D

  • Rokatt88

Posted April 24, 2003 - 11:40 AM


Thanks for the good insight Stonewall. That bolt had me a little worried. Now I'm a whole lotta worried! :D I wouldn't want my hand turned into some kind of gross claw-like appendage :D Hmmm... see what I can come up with... :)

  • stonewall

Posted April 25, 2003 - 11:42 AM


Hey Rokatt
I swiped this from the 250/400 board. This is what you need to get rid of the finger manglers and make things look clean. :)

Red Riders,

When replacing stock handguards on either the XR2.5 or the XR4 the following list of Honda Parts are required to complete the job perfect.

1. Brake Lever Bolt - part #90114-166-006
2. Brake Lever Boot - part #53176-ML3-791
3. Clutch Lever Bolt - part #90114-428-870
4. Clutch Lever Boot - part #53177-430-000

Also you'll need 1 nut for each bolt, my dealer just gave me two with the little locking grooves cut into them.

Total cost for me was $14.00 + tax

This job can be done using the old bolts, but using the proper lenghth bolts along with the addition of custom fit boots makes the job slick.

I'm picky about things and I would guess there are some others out there who want to do the job right, if so this is what you need.

  • jws

Posted April 25, 2003 - 05:25 PM


try this :)

  • Rokatt88

Posted April 28, 2003 - 10:09 AM


Well Alright! Put on the new Tusk D-Flex hand guards over the weekend. They look great and feel solid. Hope I never have to test just how solid they are! As for the CR bolts and lever covers, I whipped out my trusty dremmel and trimmed off the stock hand guards thereby just leaving the plastic that covers the levers joint. This way I can use the stock bolts and for the clutch side for example the rubber boot is still functional. I wish I could get a picture for you but I don't have a digital camera. Anyway, it looks very clean & me! :)

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