DR650: Splitting the cases - how much work and $?


14 replies to this topic
  • LukasM

Posted November 07, 2009 - 03:41 PM

#1

Hey guys,

I am probably going to pick up a second DR next week, I think it's a 96 model but has low kms on it. Old school paper base gasket though, which is leaking pretty bad. I was considering putting in the updated 3rd gear when I have it torn down for putting in the metal gasket. Of course this will require going a step further, gotta split the cases.

I have never done this, so would appreciate some pointers on what to expect time wise and extra parts needed like gaskets, bearings that should be replaced etc. And do I need any special tools other than the rotor puller?

Thanks,
Lukas

  • ProCycle

Posted November 07, 2009 - 09:12 PM

#2

I haven't had the bottom end of a DR650 apart yet but on most any single cylinder bike motor once you have the top end, clutch assembly and flywheel off splitting the cases is no big deal. With the bottom end laying on its right side the left case half will lift off leaving all the internals in the right case. It usually takes a bit of work to break the seal between the case halves. With luck the left end of the crank should easily slide out of the bearing or the left crank bearing will slide out of the case. There are special 'case puller' tools designed to bolt to the case and push the crank out - kind of like a gear puller. Whenever I have needed a case puller I've found it is easy enough to make one out of a piece of thick scrap steel.

  • mxrob

Posted November 08, 2009 - 06:02 AM

#3

+1 Mine hasn't had a need to come apart either... I have the case splitting tools and Procycle is right... not a big deal to make up your own variation. You certainly do not want to bang on the crank in anyway while disassembling your engine. :ride: You may find that a multi-puller like used for removing steering wheels may fit the bill depending on the puller boss spacing in the cases. You'll just need some long bolts to reach the threaded case puller bosses. Or http://pitposse.com/pocrsp.html :smirk:

  • Older and Slower

Posted November 08, 2009 - 06:32 AM

#4

I'm trying to remember, but don't you also use the tool to seat the crank into one half of the case before assembling the unit?

  • TallPaul

Posted November 08, 2009 - 06:34 AM

#5

I've had 2 kickstart engines apart and TBH, they're very simple jobs to do. The only special tools I used were the flywheel puller and a bearing puller for the crankshaft. If the engine is out of the frame, you'd easily have it apart, inspected, cleaned & ready to reassemble in a day, maybe even back together if you push on. Dont use cheapy ebay gasket kits like I did first time- they all failed and I had to change them for genuine ones.

  • TallPaul

Posted November 08, 2009 - 06:39 AM

#6

If you're going to keep the bike once its done, replace all the bearings whilst you are at it. Get them from a specialist bearing supplier (not a Suzuki dealer), they'll be a quarter of the price, I'd guess at less than $150 for them.

  • brianwheelies

Posted November 08, 2009 - 05:41 PM

#7

I would love to pull mine apart as well and do the bearing and transmission treatment. Maybe even paint the cases and cylinder/head black! Keep us posted on what you do. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to do mine but it's a cost thing. Tranny parts are expensive and I've invested around $500 in an entirely new clutch.

  • Icelander-DR650

Posted November 08, 2009 - 05:59 PM

#8

Hi Lukas,

Had to split mine to repair it, definitely needed the case splitting tool to separate the cases, the rotor puller and special socket to get the nut off the crank. I borrowed one from a Honda shop that fit (Suzuki didn't have one). Take careful note of all dowels. Change the bearing and seal for the output shaft when in there, the plastic oil pump gear too. The bushing on the end of the torque limiter likes to pop out of the case. Took a while to find where the little dowel pin came from :smirk:.

Go slow, cases didn't want to come apart squarely they wanted to twist and bind. Support the motor on blocks to keep the crank from hitting the bench, my crank actually slid a bit and the balancer was hitting the crank slightly. Pushed it back in with a press.

If I can help you with any other info let me know. I'm not on here much any more, not by choice just no time. Feel free to email me as I'll get it on my Blackberry. I'll PM you my address in case you've lost it.

  • JamminJay

Posted December 07, 2009 - 12:36 PM

#9

Hey guys, I'm doing a full engine refresh (26K miles) in preparation for a 2 year trip thru LatAm and Africa. Main reason is wanting to make sure nothing fails during the trip - I'm all about preventative maintenance :banghead:

I'm going in to replace the 3rd Drive Gear and since I'm there, sounds like a good idea to replace all bearings and oil seals, shift forks and primary gear.

If you're going to keep the bike once its done, replace all the bearings whilst you are at it. Get them from a specialist bearing supplier (not a Suzuki dealer), they'll be a quarter of the price, I'd guess at less than $150 for them.


These are all the bearings I can think off in the engine that I'm planning to replace. Am I missing anything? I see 2 small bearings on the clutch - should I replace those?

Posted Image

It's coming to around $220 on RonAyers. Going to shop around locally to see if I can get them cheaper.

__________________________________

Change the bearing and seal for the output shaft when in there, the plastic oil pump gear too.

Which plastic oil pump gear are you referring to? #2 or #7 or both?

Posted Image

  • TallPaul

Posted December 07, 2009 - 12:56 PM

#10

When I had my engine apart, I took all the bearings and oil seals to my local stockist & he matched them up there and then. The only oil seal he couldnt get was one for the decompression spindle on the rocker cover, due to the heat rating, he said a genuine Suzuki one was the best.
Although I didnt actually replace the clutch release bearing, in hindsight, its so cheap I would if I was doing it again.
You probably will need a special "blind" puller to lift out the balancer shaft bearings.

  • 54321

Posted December 08, 2009 - 07:21 PM

#11

Hey guys, I'm doing a full engine refresh (26K miles) in preparation for a 2 year trip thru LatAm and Africa. Main reason is wanting to make sure nothing fails during the trip - I'm all about preventative maintenance :banghead:

I'm going in to replace the 3rd Drive Gear and since I'm there, sounds like a good idea to replace all bearings and oil seals, shift forks and primary gear.

It's coming to around $220 on RonAyers. Going to shop around locally to see if I can get them cheaper.


I've used Ron Ayers but have found a couple Suzuki dealers that are cheaper.

Here are a couple I've used with good luck:

http://www.suzukipar...iche_select.asp

http://www.babbittsonline.com/

Good luck. Rather than rebuild my DR before traveling, I'm buying a near new '08 for $3500 with less than 1000 miles on it. Selling my '06 for $2000. Transferring all the good stuff over to new bike. Well worth the $1500 investment, IMHO.
:cheers:

  • JamminJay

Posted February 19, 2010 - 02:43 PM

#12

In preparation for an upcoming trip I got the engine rebuilt to replace this suspect 3rd Drive Gear. Engine had 26K miles on it.

Parts needed:
24231-12D21 Gear 3rd Drive ($58)
09380-25003 Circlips (at least 2) ($2)

Parts recommended:
25211-37401 Fork, Gear Shifting No. 1 ($44)
25221-37401 Fork, Gear Shifting No. 2 ($44)
16321-32E00 Oil Pump Plastic Gear ($15)

Oil Seals: there are 3 oil seals that should be replace if splitting the cases
09283-25096 Oil Seal, Drive Shaft to Sprocket 25x44x7 ($6)
09282-16002 Oil Seal, Crankshaft to Clutch Cover 16x30x6 ($5)
09285-12006 Oil Seal, Gearshift Cover 12x22x9 ($4)

Gaskets to be replaced when splitting the cases:
11400-32874 Gasket set (includes below items) ($76)
11485-12D01 Gear Shift cover Gasket
11241-04F20 Crank to Cylinder Gasket
11141-32E00 Cylinder to Head Gasket
11482-32E00 Clutch Gasket
11483-32E00 Magneto Gasket
11177-44B01 Valve Inspection Gasket
12837-24A10 Tension Adj Gasket
14181-22D01 Exhaust Gasket
09280-15007 Oil Filter Gasket
09280-17003 Oil Filler Gakset
09280-46002 Intake O-ring
09280-72001 Oil Filter O-ring


Tools needed:
50 mm Rotor Remover Tool, Dennis Kirk P/N 281965 ($80) (Note: 09930-33720 PN from manual is a 42 mm wide tool that will not fit)
09917-23711 Ring Nut Socket Wrench (or make your own)
Plate to split the cases
Transmission puller tool


My mechanic charged me $450 for the rebuild. He let me help out as much as I could and also taught me how to go about this in case I need to do this on my own.


Posted Image
Removing the engine from the frame. Pushed up from the bottom as she was slid out the side.

Posted Image
On the workbench at my mechanic friend's place. Her home for the next 2 1/2 months.

Posted Image
Old piston being replaced. 1998 stock with 26K miles, not bad.

Posted Image
The 50 mm rotor puller

Posted Image
The engine sitting level with bolted supports

Posted Image
Special tool made to release the ring-nut from pipe section

Posted Image
Ring-nut socket in place

Posted Image
Puller plate with threads to match the DR (also used for SV650 motor)

Posted Image
The cases being split.

Posted Image
Gus, twisting the threaded rod to split the cases.

Posted Image
And Voila! beautiful internal engine components.

Posted Image
The transmission. Left side: Drive gears (3rd gear in the middle), Right side: Driven gears (output shaft)

Posted Image
Cases put back together. Parts and new gaskets installed.

Posted Image
Putting the clutch basket on

Posted Image
Cam and chain installed

  • JamminJay

Posted February 19, 2010 - 02:44 PM

#13

Posted Image
One sweet rebuilt DR650 engine :ride:

Posted Image
Spinning the crank around and going through the gears to make sure everything is in its proper place.

Posted Image
Putting the engine back in the frame with the help of a buddy who acted as an engine hoist while I lined it up. Went in much easier than I was expecting, took about 15 mins only.

She fired up on the first try and sounds so sweet ::ride:


My original 3rd Drive Gear looked good, along with everything else in the engine: cylinder walls, valve seats, stems, cam, chain, etc. No marks or damage on any gears or parts . Good to know that there'll be no surprises from the engine (touch wood :lol: )

  • 54321

Posted February 19, 2010 - 05:56 PM

#14

Thanks for the great documentation on the re-build! Very nice job, especially on all the parts lists and all. Loved the pics and explanation on special tools.
You're lucky to have an experienced mechanic. I wouldn't try that job on my own.

I'm assuming you've loc-tited down the NSU bolts while you were in there? Some also have mentioned replacing that brown plastic oil pump gear. No idea if that is called for or not.

Did you go with a new Piston/Rings?

How was the Nicasil finish on the barrel?

Good luck with the shake down/break-in runs. How soon are you taking off?

EDIT:just re-read you post and I see you've done the piston and oil pump gear!!

Edited by 54321, February 19, 2010 - 06:16 PM.


  • mxrob

Posted February 20, 2010 - 05:30 AM

#15

+1 Nicely documented JamminJay! :ride:




 
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