First time changing fork seals


11 replies to this topic
  • oscarthemouse

Posted November 07, 2009 - 01:36 PM

#1

Today i went ahead and jumped into changing my fork seals because they were both leaking and it was time. At first i was nervous about something going wrong. But after researching on here and watching a couple how to videos i felt more confident in doing it. The job itself is not that hard of a job. The only think i didnt have was a seal driver, so i just used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half, it worked great. Everything on here was so helpful to me. I greatly appreciate all the information you guys have on here. Thank you :smirk:

  • mywifefarts

Posted November 07, 2009 - 07:25 PM

#2

I bet it's hard to believe you actually once paid someone good money to do this for you! No offense suspension tuners. I still need you!

  • INJURY_69

Posted November 07, 2009 - 09:58 PM

#3

You didn't need any (other) special tools?

  • oscarthemouse

Posted November 08, 2009 - 02:30 PM

#4

Well i had some big wrenches that we have on our farm to take the big caps off, they did the job, but after i had completed the job i did order the Tusk took off rocky mountain to take them off the next time i need to do a for service. Other than the seal driver i had to fab up i just used regular tools around our shop.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2009 - 02:42 PM

#5

On '98-'04 models, no special tools are needed other than the seal driver, unless you want to remove the damper and/or base valve. That's not necessary to replace the seals, though.

The later models are another matter. You really should not use anything other than the correct octagonal wrench to unscrew the cartridge from the top of the fork, and you'll need a base valve wrench if you want to do a full oil change.

And "real" seal drivers work vastly better than jerry-rigged plastic ones do, with far less risk of damage to the seals.

  • oscarthemouse

Posted November 08, 2009 - 06:55 PM

#6

Gray is right, a real seal driver would work much better than my plastic one. But being a hour and half away from a dealership that would have no idea what i was talking about and waiting if i ordered one online, i just used my resources. But will most likely buy a good driver for future references. But i did not do a full oil change, so i didnt need a base valve wrench.

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  • Wiz636

Posted November 08, 2009 - 09:15 PM

#7

I use a PVC pipe coupling cut in half lengthwise. Works fine for my occasional use.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 08, 2009 - 10:18 PM

#8

48mm seal driver: $50 (or less)

Used 9 times: $5.56 per use

Having the right tool: priceless

  • Wiz636

Posted November 09, 2009 - 11:37 AM

#9

2" PVC pipe coupling = $0.68

Not spending $50 on a tool = three cases of Budweiser

  • grayracer513

Posted November 09, 2009 - 11:50 AM

#10

.... Budweiser

eeew! Posted Image

:smirk:

  • Wiz636

Posted November 09, 2009 - 01:02 PM

#11

eeew! Posted Image

:smirk:


Aw, c'mon on now Gray. It's winter. When the weather is warm I switch to Pacifico.

  • FinchFan194

Posted November 09, 2009 - 08:35 PM

#12

2" PVC pipe coupling = $0.68

Not spending $50 on a tool = three cases of Budweiser


LOL!:smirk:





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