Ebatt vs Turntech


17 replies to this topic
  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted November 04, 2009 - 01:14 PM

#1

Well, I believe my battery may have given up the ghost. Two different chargers show within minutes that the battery is fully charged and then goes to float mode, yet the estart will only turn over maybe a couple of times before it's done cranking.

So I'm wondering about both Turntech and Ebatt 2.5 amp batteries. Currently the Ebatt is $80 and the Turntech is $100. Aside from the plastic case that the Turntech comes in, are there any major differences? I don't think I'd need the 5 amp battery as I kick it over when cold anyway. I'm guessing these are pretty similar but don't know. Any charging issues with these batteries either off the bike's system or via a charger that's important to know? The websites state that a regular charger can be used so I'm assuming the circuitry is built in to allow a lithium battery to charge from a normal charger? Hate spending this much on a battery, but would be nice to lose some of that weight.

  • 123BigcoopDawg576

Posted November 04, 2009 - 01:41 PM

#2

So I'm wondering about both Turntech and Ebatt 2.5 amp batteries. Currently the Ebatt is $80 and the Turntech is $100. Aside from the plastic case that the Turntech comes in, are there any major differences? I don't think I'd need the 5 amp battery as I kick it over when cold anyway.


Brett
Ill shoot you an email with more detail but for 50 bucks, we can build you a "TurnTech" battery :smirk: (Email sent)

Also, there is a big difference in the cells that the E-batt uses vs what cells the TurnTech uses (A123 vs K2)

A123 have a lot more cranking amps than the K2 (If I remember correctly, its close to double) So if you did go with the TurnTech, you would want a 5.0amp to especially sense you run HID's.

  • JoeT

Posted November 04, 2009 - 05:24 PM

#3

No meaningful power difference between the "Power Cell" of either manufacturer. K2 does make an "Energy Cell" that will only produce about 1/2 the amps of either power cell.

Edited by JoeT, November 04, 2009 - 05:46 PM.


  • tribalbc

Posted November 05, 2009 - 09:12 AM

#4

Well I haven't had any problems with my Ebatt. It cranks a little slow when it's really cold, less than 45. But the more you crank it, it actually warms up and starts spinning faster.
I have no experience with the trail tech.
But it sounds like Bigcoopdawg has had good results with his homebuilt version. For $50 you can't go wrong.
You'll enjoy the weight savings in the high COG. These battery's have alot more cranking power in them over long periods then the stock battery as well.

One thing I've noticed with the ebatts that didn't happen with stock is when the bike hits the dreaded compression stroke the battery goes dead for a split second and the odo resets. Kinds a PITA in races when I'm tracking the distance. it's done that with both my Nicad and Lithium Ebatts.

  • OUTERLIMITS

Posted November 05, 2009 - 10:15 AM

#5

One thing I've noticed with the ebatts that didn't happen with stock is when the bike hits the dreaded compression stroke the battery goes dead for a split second and the odo resets. Kinds a PITA in races when I'm tracking the distance. it's done that with both my Nicad and Lithium Ebatts.


Holy cow, I was wondering why that was happening. I only noticed it on my last couple of rides, but would find that I would have different mileage readings between both the odometers even after zeroing them both out at the start. Fortunately, it seemed like one of them didn't reset and the other did.

I'm all for less weight. Coop says it's an amazing difference in feel. Good to know that your battery is working out well for you and holding up. I think my stocker may have been a little suspect from when the bike was new. I really haven't done anything to kill it and always put a charger on it before each ride. My only problem is that my rides are about 3 weeks apart, but I wouldn't think that would matter.

  • tribalbc

Posted November 05, 2009 - 10:23 AM

#6

Holy cow, I was wondering why that was happening. I only noticed it on my last couple of rides, but would find that I would have different mileage readings between both the odometers even after zeroing them both out at the start. Fortunately, it seemed like one of them didn't reset and the other did.

I'm all for less weight. Coop says it's an amazing difference in feel. Good to know that your battery is working out well for you and holding up. I think my stocker may have been a little suspect from when the bike was new. I really haven't done anything to kill it and always put a charger on it before each ride. My only problem is that my rides are about 3 weeks apart, but I wouldn't think that would matter.



Yeah the second one doesn't reset. Just a pain in the race to have to click it over to the second one, and you lose your time.
I don't remember my stocker ever doing this but I only ran the stock battery a few months before switching over to ebatt.

As Coop said, amazing difference in feel, especially if you have gotten rid of your stock exhaust for more weight loss. I've gone one step further with a YZ Ti spring.

  • nhalbrecht

Posted November 05, 2009 - 06:15 PM

#7

Yeah the second one doesn't reset. Just a pain in the race to have to click it over to the second one, and you lose your time.
I don't remember my stocker ever doing this but I only ran the stock battery a few months before switching over to ebatt.



mine does that too. very annoying... i have the stock battery in tho. it will just randomly reset itself while im riding, or if i crash, when i get up and going again, the odo resets itself... anyway anyone knows of to fix/prevent this? I was thinking it was a connection that shakes loose or disconnects/looses ground of something for a split second, but i really have no idea

-nic

  • Demo_Slug

Posted November 06, 2009 - 03:20 PM

#8


One thing I've noticed with the ebatts that didn't happen with stock is when the bike hits the dreaded compression stroke the battery goes dead for a split second and the odo resets. Kinds a PITA in races when I'm tracking the distance. it's done that with both my Nicad and Lithium Ebatts.

I Made my own battery, but used larger cells. I'll look to see if mine resets.

when I get stuck on compresion stroke I can tap the starter button 4 or 5 times and it will clear.

  • Parx_400

Posted November 07, 2009 - 03:38 PM

#9

Are any of you guys running the yz cam with the Ebatt? I just put an Ebatt on and it wont start the bike. Volt meter says the volts go from 13.4- 5.4 when i hit the button. Battery is fully charged and has been n the battery tender. Starter just buzzes and wont even turn it over.

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  • Demo_Slug

Posted November 07, 2009 - 04:19 PM

#10

Are any of you guys running the yz cam with the Ebatt? I just put an Ebatt on and it wont start the bike. Volt meter says the volts go from 13.4- 5.4 when i hit the button. Battery is fully charged and has been n the battery tender. Starter just buzzes and wont even turn it over.


you are saying the battery voltage sags to 5.4 volts during cranking? if it does, its toast. on a functional pack you shouldn't see below 9.5V

  • tribalbc

Posted November 07, 2009 - 04:22 PM

#11

Are any of you guys running the yz cam with the Ebatt? I just put an Ebatt on and it wont start the bike. Volt meter says the volts go from 13.4- 5.4 when i hit the button. Battery is fully charged and has been n the battery tender. Starter just buzzes and wont even turn it over.


Yz cams in mine. Turns over just as fast as with WR cams. Mine can't turn it over if it's stuck on the compression stroke but there's no buzzing. Must be some other issue.

  • Parx_400

Posted November 07, 2009 - 05:05 PM

#12

you are saying the battery voltage sags to 5.4 volts during cranking? if it does, its toast. on a functional pack you shouldn't see below 9.5V



When I hit the button it sags to 5.4. Wont even crank it over. Batt is brand new.

Anyone know if its ok to use a battery tender on the Ebatts/

  • tribalbc

Posted November 07, 2009 - 05:16 PM

#13

Anyone know if its ok to use a battery tender on the Ebatts/




Shouldn't ever need to but I seem to remember reading you can use a normal charger on the Ebatt, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Contact Andre at Ebatt, he'll fill you in. And the battery has a warranty as well if it is defective.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted November 07, 2009 - 05:22 PM

#14

When I hit the button it sags to 5.4. Wont even crank it over. Batt is brand new.

Anyone know if its ok to use a battery tender on the Ebatts/


if you have one of the older nicad packs, then no. but if you have one of the newer lifepo4 packs, then a tender should work fine. I use a tender on my home brew pack.

  • Parx_400

Posted November 07, 2009 - 05:31 PM

#15

if you have one of the older nicad packs, then no. but if you have one of the newer lifepo4 packs, then a tender should work fine. I use a tender on my home brew pack.


I'm pretty sure its the new lifepo4 pack. Its the same on TrialBC just got.

  • Parx_400

Posted November 07, 2009 - 05:56 PM

#16

Yz cams in mine. Turns over just as fast as with WR cams. Mine can't turn it over if it's stuck on the compression stroke but there's no buzzing. Must be some other issue.


I think I messed this up. The Regulator is positive on both sides isn't it?

  • tribalbc

Posted November 07, 2009 - 07:12 PM

#17

I think I messed this up. The Regulator is positive on both sides isn't it?


If you mean the starter relay by the battery then it is directional. You want to plug into the same side your battery was plugged in.
Are you measuring your drop directly on the battery?
You might want to check your three pin connector into this relay. I had an issue of bike acting like a dead battery but battery showing 13.5 volts. Traced it down to the three pin connector. Turned out to be a bad connection that only a piece of tinfoil would fix :smirk:

How did you hook up your ground?

  • jlow

Posted November 20, 2009 - 03:06 PM

#18

tribal, just put an ebatt on mine. had the same problem you and the others had with the odometer going back to zero and clock reseting when starter would stop on compression stroke, but mine was with the stock battery that i kept charged with a battery tender. haven't had a chance to really test the new battery since i put in the ebatt due a new baby. but so far the voltage has only dropped from 13.7 to 13.4 volts after sitting for three weeks and checking it on a cold day. been charging the ebatt with the battery tender with no ill effects so far. the ebatt has been cranking right through the compression stroke so far, no problems. even when trying to start it cold for the heck of it. jlow




 
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