My son has a 01' kx500that shifts terribly.To upshift the bike rpm's must drop to almost idle to successfully shift.We've had the bike to our local mechanic and he's had it apart.According to him the parts all appear new and straight in the trans.The only thing we've heard that might be causing this [that makes sense]is the clutch might not be dis-engageing fully on shifts.By the way shifting without clutch usage is no help.Any suggestions??:foul::foul:
kx500 trans issues
Started by 99raptor, Nov 02 2009 11:26 AM
6 replies to this topic
Posted 02 November 2009 - 11:26 AM
My son has a 01' kx500that shifts terribly.To upshift the bike rpm's must drop to almost idle to successfully shift.We've had the bike to our local mechanic and he's had it apart.According to him the parts all appear new and straight in the trans.The only thing we've heard that might be causing this [that makes sense]is the clutch might not be dis-engageing fully on shifts.By the way shifting without clutch usage is no help.Any suggestions??:foul::foul:
Posted 02 November 2009 - 01:59 PM
It's easy enough to check the clutch. Look for notches in the hub and basket from the clutch plates, also look for warped discs as they will bind causing the same effect.
Posted 02 November 2009 - 05:06 PM
I'm covering all my bases as I have the same question in on Kxriders.com also.
Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:29 PM
I am with Jeekinz on this one -- time for inspection of clutch plate, steels, and basket.
drain transmission fluid, remove clutch cover, remove pressure plate, and remove plates one-by-one. Look at all plates and steels for warpage. Inspect clutch basket for grooves, etc.
You can do a better job of inspection if you remove the entire cover, it just takes a little longer. Also, depending on light and workspace, you might do better by laying the bike on its side. Just shut off the fuel first.
drain transmission fluid, remove clutch cover, remove pressure plate, and remove plates one-by-one. Look at all plates and steels for warpage. Inspect clutch basket for grooves, etc.
You can do a better job of inspection if you remove the entire cover, it just takes a little longer. Also, depending on light and workspace, you might do better by laying the bike on its side. Just shut off the fuel first.
Posted 17 November 2009 - 09:40 PM
Those are all good suggestions.
Some other things to look for are the little clutch arm that actuates the clutch.
Make sure it is not worn.
If the clutch arm, clutch lever, clutch cable, clutch basket and plates are all good then you will need to dig a little deeper.
From there you will need to examine your shift cam mechanism. I have had several bikes that had excessive wear causing similar problems to what you are having.
Last, you will need to split the cases and check out the shift drum, shift forks, and last look at all the dog ears on the gears.
Hopes this helps.
Some other things to look for are the little clutch arm that actuates the clutch.
Make sure it is not worn.
If the clutch arm, clutch lever, clutch cable, clutch basket and plates are all good then you will need to dig a little deeper.
From there you will need to examine your shift cam mechanism. I have had several bikes that had excessive wear causing similar problems to what you are having.
Last, you will need to split the cases and check out the shift drum, shift forks, and last look at all the dog ears on the gears.
Hopes this helps.
Posted 21 November 2009 - 12:21 PM
not a clutch problem as would have problem engaging first gear and should change up gears with no clutch anyway, check the easy stuff first with clutch cover off, make sure the shift shaft is not bent [can get bent if bike every threw drive chain or was dropped hard on left side
