YZ400/426 websites



14 replies to this topic
  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted August 03, 2000 - 03:59 AM

#1

Does anyone know of any other YZ400/426 websites?

  • MikeOK

Posted August 05, 2000 - 06:02 AM

#2

I have started a real bad one, getting some stuff up that's worth seeing though I think... it's here:
http://www.geocities.com/mdwsr/

Mike

  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 07, 2000 - 01:58 AM

#3

I CHECKED OUT YOUR SITE, I'TS REALLY NOT BAD AT ALL. KEEP IT COMING. SOME GOOD LINKS. I LIKE THE ONLINE PARTS MICROFICH. IS SOMEBODY GOING TO GET A SERVICE MANUAL ONLINE?
I BOUGHT MY YZ400F IN JAPAN AND THE MANUALS HERE ARE UNREADABLE. ABOUT ALL I KNOW IS FROM ALL THE GUYS HERE, AND WHAT I READ IN ALL THE MAG's. I COULD USE ALOT MORE....

HOW ABOUT SOME RIDING TECHNIQUES TOO. I'M TRYING TO ADAPT TO THE 4 STROKE MYSELF AND COULD USE SOME POINTERS. LIKE HOW TO KEEP FROM STALLING THE BEAST IN THE CORNERS. I'M AFRAID I'M GOING TO ABUSE MY CLUTCH KEEPING THE REVS UP.

[This message has been edited by JPNTHUMP (edited 08-07-2000).]

  • Hick

Posted August 07, 2000 - 09:28 PM

#4

Originally posted by JPNTHUMP:
HOW ABOUT SOME RIDING TECHNIQUES TOO. I'M TRYING TO ADAPT TO THE 4 STROKE MYSELF AND COULD USE SOME POINTERS. LIKE HOW TO KEEP FROM STALLING THE BEAST IN THE CORNERS. I'M AFRAID I'M GOING TO ABUSE MY CLUTCH KEEPING THE REVS UP.


QUIT SHOUTING!! :)

(Just kidding!)

Try turning your idle up a bit. Too high will make it hard(er) to start, though.

Also, instead of brake sliding, clutching and ripping like a 2-stroke try "rolling" through the corner, in gear, with gas on. Pretty hard to stall it this way, it takes advantage of compression braking and its easier to get back on power exiting corner.

Just a thought...

MikeOK: I like your page also, good links.

  • Johnny_W

Posted August 07, 2000 - 04:14 PM

#5

Definetly don't ride it like a 2smoke, for sure to stall it! I have found that letting the engine do a lot of the braking is a much smoother and faster way to go, especially in 2nd and 3rd gear on tighter tracks. It will take some time to quit clutching in every turn, but you'll get used to it and be much happier with the way the bike performs.

  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 08, 2000 - 12:04 AM

#6

I tried to turn the idle up (knob to the right) to help from stalling like everyone is saying to do. It started to rev too high so I backed it off again. Then it stalled on me. When I tried to kick it again, it wouldn't stay started. It took me an hour to find a sweet spot to where it would start again and run. Where is a good starting point for the idle. (Ie. Two turns out? Three turns out?) I wish I had checked the original location when I started messing with it. It'll start now cold, I don't know how it will act when I get it out again and get it hot. I definatly need to learn this things quirks. It seems kinda finiky. The two stroke was alot simpler in that regaurd. Just kick it and go. I only have one ride on the 4stroke so bear with me guys. I'm eager to learn. This web site has helped me tremendously.

  • Matt_Porritt

Posted August 08, 2000 - 12:27 AM

#7

Originally posted by JPNTHUMP:
IS SOMEBODY GOING TO GET A SERVICE MANUAL ONLINE?
I BOUGHT MY YZ400F IN JAPAN AND THE MANUALS HERE ARE UNREADABLE. ABOUT ALL I KNOW IS FROM ALL THE GUYS HERE, AND WHAT I READ IN ALL THE MAG's. I COULD USE ALOT MORE....


I'm in the process of scanning it in and sorting a Online manual as we speak..
Expect some more news later this week.


------------------
--
**Ride it like you Stole it!**
Matt Porritt
99 YZ400F
Vist the Rubber Chicken Racing Online Shop
Discounts for ThumperTalk members.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 08, 2000 - 02:14 AM

#8

Good news Matt. I'll be looking out. I assume you'll post it at your Rubber Chicken Site?

[This message has been edited by JPNTHUMP (edited 08-08-2000).]

  • Hick

Posted August 08, 2000 - 01:49 PM

#9

Originally posted by JPNTHUMP:
When I tried to kick it again, it wouldn't stay started. It took me an hour to find a sweet spot to where it would start again and run. Where is a good starting point for the idle.


Soon all your stalling/starting woes will be long forgotten. You will either learn to overcome or learn to live with it (actually probably a little of both).

The 426 is a finicky starter. If cold or hot it is easy to figure out. Anything in between that and you may have to kick for a while.

Warm your bike up before you ride it. I usually start mine before I put on my helmet, gloves and goggles. Then I turn the idle up so it will run unattended (what do you think they made that big knob for?).

Once it is warm I back off on the idle speed. At this point I can shut the bike off and it will relight w/ one kick.

My point is (finally, you say) twofold:
1)that bike should be at operating temp. before you try new things with idle speed and mixture
2) bike should fire readily (no choke, no hot start, one/two kicks) if it was warmed up and recently killed at idle. Even if idle is a "bit" high.

If it doesn't a little tweaking with the idle mixture (ck. your manual) may help. Before you mess w/ this find the orig. position (should be 1.75 turns out, the more turns out the richer it is). And 1/4 turn makes a lot of difference so be prudent.

If bike starts easier when hot w/ a little throttle then your idle mix is probably lean.

If bike needs hot start even when it hasn't been dropped or flooded then idle mix is probably too rich.

If you had the idle so high that it surged in gear when backing off throttle then that is probably too high. It is also harder to kick at higher idle due to larger volume of air being compressed in cylinder.

If you find yourself kicking in despair then do this:

1) stop and rest your foot for God's sake!
2) pull in compression release
3) hold throttle open (I know you're not supposed to do this but bear w/ me).
4) kick 10 to 15 times (throttle on, comp. release pulled simultaneously).
5) NOW try again like nothing has happened

And of course be patient. The longer you let a hot, unstartable YZF sit the greater the odds of it starting again (as you have already discovered). And don't waste any kicks (follow through).

Just some rules of thumb...

Hope this is helpful

[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 08-08-2000).]

  • Matt_Porritt

Posted August 08, 2000 - 02:33 PM

#10

I'm not sure where it will be hosted but there will be access from my website to it..
I'm up to Chapter 4.. so about 3/5 through it! :)

Is everyone after the FULL manual or the important stuff?
I've skipped the bits about 'where is the gear lever' and 'whats the clutch' and got to the good stuff..

You guys have the say.. I'm just a pawn! :D

------------------
--
**Ride it like you Stole it!**
Matt Porritt
99 YZ400F
Vist the Rubber Chicken Racing Online Shop
Discounts for ThumperTalk members.

  • Derwood

Posted August 08, 2000 - 07:13 PM

#11

Hick,
Great tips on starting the YZ. I still don't open the throttle though. No need to add any more fuel to the fire.
I had to learn the hard way. Three months into ownership, the bike slid down on it's side while helping out a friend during a ride. I went to restart the bike and it lost compression during starting. I was in horror. It was my first ride and I killed it. After some study and thought. I changed the oil, or should I say FUEL/Oil. and the bike ran fine after that.
But, I wouldn't trade it.

  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 08, 2000 - 11:08 PM

#12

Great help guys. Kudos to all. Keep 'em coming.

  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 09, 2000 - 01:05 AM

#13

Is everyone after the FULL manual or the important stuff?

Hey Matt,

I need the good stuff. I'm not mechanically retarded. Just new to the YZ400. I need the repair/maintenance/servicing capacities/troubleshooting/torque specs/ actually anything technical. I know where the clutch lever is. My CR had one of those too.



[This message has been edited by JPNTHUMP (edited 08-09-2000).]

  • JPNTHUMP

Posted August 09, 2000 - 01:16 AM

#14

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hick:
[B If it doesn't a little tweaking with the idle mixture (ck. your manual) may help.

Thanks Hick,
I'm working with Matt on the manual problem.
Like I said earlier, I'm in Japan and bought the bike from a Japanese dealer, and my manual is writen in chicken scratch. Kinda hard to read in other words. No books from Climer are available that I can find.

  • Hick

Posted August 09, 2000 - 06:48 AM

#15

Sorry JPNTHUMP, I forgot you don't have a manual.

Why don't you just call a US shop like North County Yam and order a manual? (800-225-1629) Shipping it across the ocean may equal the manual's cost but, despite the Yam shop/owner's manual's numerous shortfalls and awful English (what's that saying about glass houses?), I could not have gotten by without it.

In the meanwhile to adjust idle mix you need to find a way to get a straight slot screwdriver under the fuel bowl. The mix screw protrudes down through the front portion of the float bowl but is hidden in a recessed hole. It is angled about 10 degrees up/away from perpendicular towards front of bike.

It is a tight fit. I use one of those cheap compact multi-driver things and leave the handle off. The shaft with a bit in it is just short enough to get under the float bowl. I marked a line on the bit driver w/ nail polish so I can count the turns.

Try the HLSM online parts microfiche and take a gander at the carburetor picture, mix screw is part # 24.
http://216.37.204.3/...00YZ426FMB4.GIF

MikeOKs site also has the same microfiche pictures.
http://www.geocities...dwsr/carb32.htm


I suppose its a good thing Yam didn't hire ME to write the manual...

But if anybody knows of an alternative or addition to the standard Yamaha owner's manual I'd love to hear about it.





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