WR450 2003 oil spewing out of dipstick
Posted October 29, 2009 - 02:20 PM
Posted October 29, 2009 - 02:40 PM
Someone probably let the bike sit a day or two or three, and when they found out there was no oil on the dipstick, they added some. Then, once the bike started and ran, the oil that had drained to the crankcase while it sat was returned to the tank, resulting in the condition you have now.
The bike has a Dry Sump Oiling System. Oil is filled into the crankcase, while the actual oil storage during operation is the frame oil tank, where the dipstick is. On the steel frame bikes, oil will drain fairly quickly from the frame to the crankcase, and may show on the dip stick as being significantly lower than normal after as little as 8 hours.
Oil should always be checked within 10 minutes after shutoff to avoid inaccurate readings.
Posted October 30, 2009 - 04:13 AM
Posted October 30, 2009 - 05:26 AM
thank you, i changed it out to 10w30 for now with the correct amount and seems to be fine:banana:
I hope that isn't automotive 10w30 oil. Almost all 10W30 automotive oil contains friction modifiers that will damage the clutch. If the bottle has the "Energy Conserving" emblem on it drain it right away and refill with proper oil. You may want to even flush it a few times. There are a bunch of threads on oil preference so I won't go into what to use. Rotella T is one but do a search and you'll find more info than you want.
Posted October 30, 2009 - 06:48 AM
That isn't entirely true. In the first place, while it is true that oils labeled EC II may cause clutch problems, it doesn't follow that they will. Still, they aren't recommended.
Almost all 10W30 automotive oil contains friction modifiers that will damage the clutch. If the bottle has the "Energy Conserving" emblem on it drain it right away and refill with proper oil.
Interesting that you warn against automotive oils and then recommend one. The number of automotive oils labeled EC II is nowhere near "almost all", but it is becoming more common. The real problem with automotive and commercial (C grade oils) is that most of them are not blended for use as a gear lube, and will not retain their viscosity for very long at all in the WRF/YZF engines because of this. Rotella, for example, while it is otherwise a very good lubricant, will drop below its labeled grade in as little as 2 hours or less. If you use it, you should change it often, probably every ride.
See page 9 of this study: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G-2156.pdf
One concern I have is that you used a 10w-30. 30 wt is not recommended for outside temps above 70 degrees, and even if the weather stays cold, it's pretty light inside a hot engine and trans. A 10w-40 will cover you down to the same -10 degrees while protecting the engine to outside temps as high as 110.
Posted October 30, 2009 - 07:21 AM
Posted October 30, 2009 - 12:04 PM
Posted October 30, 2009 - 01:13 PM
Are you talking Rotella full synthetic?
Rotella, for example, while it is otherwise a very good lubricant, will drop below its labeled grade in as little as 2 hours or less. If you use it, you should change it often, probably every ride.
Posted October 30, 2009 - 01:19 PM
Either one of the two.
Are you talking Rotella full synthetic?
Posted October 31, 2009 - 10:21 AM
The PDF didn't list Rotella full synthetic. Which product tested is = to Rotella 5w40 FS?
Either one of the two.
Posted October 31, 2009 - 10:42 AM
Based on the used oils analyses I've seen, Rotella (either of them) compares roughly to Lucas, Royal Purple, or Valvoline 4 stroke *w-40 in so far as it's viscosity retention.
Posted November 02, 2009 - 07:06 AM
The UOA's suggest changing every ride (1-3 hours) would be wiser. It just doesn't stay in grade well.
Good thing I change it every 2 rides then eh??
Posted November 02, 2009 - 07:39 AM
Edited by PBDBLUE, November 02, 2009 - 09:23 AM.
Posted November 02, 2009 - 10:41 AM
I know that it's significantly better than Rotella in several ways, including shear stability, but may not be as good in that regard as M1 V-Twin (the 20w-50 equivalent of M1 Racing 4T 10w-40).
So does anyone have any meaningful REAL data on M1 15W50? Or is all this just internet lore?
What you can always do is test your own used oil. Blackstone Labs offers test kits for free, charging you a fee only when you send a sample in. The cost is around $20, and you'll get a full report on the oil's condition.
You'll get complete instructions as to how to take the sample, but one thing in particular that's important to pay attention to if the oil's viscosity is going to be something you're looking at: take the sample only after the engine has been run for AT LEAST 30 minutes since the last cold start up, and preferably, since a start up of any kind, since fuel residue will often reach the oil supply in quantities that may be sufficient to affect the results.
By sampling your own oil at your own change interval, you will know for certain.
Posted November 02, 2009 - 01:39 PM
Posted November 02, 2009 - 04:02 PM
I must have missed that, and I know I've said no such thing myself, mostly because I don't have on hand any facts on which to base such a statement, or the contrary, for that matter. I was speaking only of Rotella, and of the general deficiency of most automotive engine oils with regard to shear stability. The testing I remember (vaguely) was a user UOA or two that seemed to support the notion that M1 EP was fairly durable, certainly more so than Rotella.
I am a little skeptical of all this talk about how bad Mobil 1 is with respect to shear.
I also couldn't find the Amsoil sheet on 10w-30 oils, so I can't speak to that test specifically. One thing to bear in mind is that there are a few different ways of testing for shear stable viscosity. There is a certain level of shear stability that's acceptable in an engine oil, and a tougher standard for transmission lube, because of the greater shear forces at work in a gear box. The D-6278 test used in the motorcycle test is very tough, but is typically used on gear lubes, so it was applied in the MC test. I can't say what test was used in the report you mention, but it's likely to have been one focused more on the level of shear resistance an engine oil is expected to have.
That doesn't mean M1 EP will fare poorly in a transmission, but it also doesn't say it won't. Pending better info, my mind is open on that concern.