anbody have a lowering link for my te510 06 thanks

Try this:
http://koubalink.com...4%20Stroke.html

I used the 1.5" to lower an '04tc250 for my wifey. Had to clearance the swingarm a bit, no problem. Lowered it great, but it makes the rear feel "dead". My wife could care less but I missed the travel.

Plan on having the fork lowered also or you will be riding a chopper!

Gotta do the front the same amount or it will handle like trash

I've lowered a few dirtbikes in my day (I'm 5'1") and I have to say that the only decent way to do it is via internal suspension mods. The links might be fine for a beginner rider that just needs to be closer to the ground in order to get comfortable on a bike, but if you're a decent rider that knows what a bike is supposed to feel like you are probably going to be disappointed with it.



WoodsChick

jawboneklx said:

I would strongly suggest you call and talk to Norm Kouba about his link on the TE510 before going that route.

I know Norm and have uses his links on a couple bikes, when set-up correctly per their recommendations, Kouba Links can work well (really help Suzuki DR's handling, when not used for lowering), but maybe not the way to go in this particular case.

Happened to run into Norm one day back at the truck after one of our desert rides, and while talking, mentioned my '05 TE510 was a bit taller than I liked on mtn single track, so ask him about links for the Husky. He explained the fitment problems with the '05-'07 TE510, so decided against it on my bike. (they state issues on the site too)

I finally ended ended up sending front and rear to LT Racing. Internal spacers were put in to reduce travel 1" (for 1.5" lower seat), plus complete revalve and springs for my needs......quite a bit more $$ than just throwing some link on, but worth it.

Lowering the rear does not mandate raising the fork tubes in the clamps an equal amount; changes to rake/trail affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear.

On average, lowering the rear 1 inch on a linkage bike with a connecting rod or rocker usually means the forks are raised 3 to 6mm to get "balanced" handling. If you do not raise the forks you will get understeer aka a chopper.

The more a link lowers the bike the more plush it will be due an increased leverage ratio but it will also bottom easier. Those in need of a heavier spring rate with the stock setup may require a heavier spring rate with the aftermarket link.

Internal spacers decrease overall travel. A link with an increased leverage ratio does NOT decrease overall travel.

As for beginners and those who benefit from a lowering link, many tall go-fast type racers use lowering links - not in the 1.5 and 2 inch version, but more sub-1 inch - from companies like Pro Circuit; almost every pro SX and MX bike I've seen in the past few years changes their suspension link based on the track and conditions. It helps decrease front end weight transfer and allows the rider to keep the bike lower on jump faces and keep the power on longer through the square edge and chop.

Bolt-on artists or those who do not like to alter or mess with the stock setup should stay away from lowering links. But for some it can increase speed, traction, cornering, stability and confidence. To each their own.

YamaLink said:

Both statements are false. While the term 'LINK' is commonly used, it is not the leverage ratio link that is changed, it is the lengnth of the straight pull "dogbone" that is changed (lengthened). This puts the leverage link into its more aggressive area. However, so does internally spacing the shock. The Linkage doesn't care how it got to that area wether by holding the shock from extending or allowing the swingarm to ride lower.

Internal spacers do always limit travel. However often a lowering link will allow the tire to contact the fender, effectively limiting travel.

The Kouba link doesn't change the leverage ratio other than starting in a more aggressive portion of the stock leverage ratio.

If you are afraid of a little grinding, this link isn't for you.

If you have Les lower it internally, he will take into account the more aggressive linkage curve starting area, and adjust the valving accordingly to avoid harshness. It would be the best way.

36MotoMarc said:

OR in cases like my old DR350, where factory stock dogbones only allowed 9" of the claimed 11" of travel, (the Kouba Link in my case, used only for improved handling, not lowering) did revise suspension geometery and allowed the full 11" of travel.....which, yes did contact fender under hard hits. (never did/could stock)

Handling was improved and plusher, hits off of jumps were more controlled and gone was the nasty Suzuki side kick on rebound........found this to be true on several DRZ's I've ridden also (when set-up up correctly).

But again, can't comment on how they work or not on Husky's