Honda

New guy with some fourtrax questions



10 replies to this topic
  • Incognito

Posted December 23, 2006 - 06:26 PM

#1

Hey all, While searching on the net to find some good info on my newly aquired 250 I found this site. I know nothing about quads except how to ride them.:bonk:

Hopefully someone can help me out. I just got a 1986 fourtrax 250 for the total price of FREE. It starts and runs, but won't drive. I've ridden it in the past ,but recently the shifter quit working. Don't know anything about what it could be or anything else for that matter. My uncle just said "If you want it, come pick it up" I was all over it!

Anyway, I am having a hard time finding any specs on it. I have seen the 250x and the 250TRX but mine just says FOURTRAX250.

Can someone help me out on what I've got? Is it Junk? A Jewel? Also were to start looking for my shifter problem.:bonk:

Thanks
-Chad

  • Incognito

Posted December 24, 2006 - 12:01 PM

#2

Ok I found out it is a trx250. I was working on it today and couldn't get it started so while jacking with the choke I broke the little switch. I finally got it started and it reved real high and it never dropped to idle. The throttle is working cause I can rev it even higher with the throttle but it just won't wind down to an idle and then after about 2 min. of running at a high rpm it just dies. I'm leaning toward the choke but I took it apart and it appears to slide. Does the carb need a rebuild?
Oh and the shifter will click and act like it is shifting, I can even find neutral but it won't move in any gear, although I haven't tried reverse yet. I'm about to open up the side of the case but I want it to run first.

I'm still open for suggestions.
Thanks,
-Chad

  • joedit

Posted December 24, 2006 - 06:39 PM

#3

I assume you have a trx250r( 2 stroke). The choke knob is also the idle adjustment, get a manual, it will explain how to adjust it better then I can.
As far as the shifter you will have to pull the clutch cover and check to make sure all the parts are where they should be. Again you will need the manual.

  • Incognito

Posted December 24, 2006 - 07:01 PM

#4

It's the 4 stroke. I plan on getting a manual pretty soon. Is there more than one manual? If so what is the best one?

-Chad

  • j28d

Posted December 25, 2006 - 11:17 PM

#5

Hey, the float may be sticking-is gas running out the overflow while it idles real high? Clean the bowl out and make sure the needle in the middle of the float can move freely. It looks like a utility, right? Your best bet for a manual is a clymers and the cheapest place to buy one is amazon.com. Is it shaft drive? Stick the rear end on a milk crate, start it up, and try putting it in gear. If the tires start to turn, the shaft and rear end should be ok. If the wheels don't turn, check to see if the shaft is turning. If it's not, then the autoclutch is fried or the gears stripped. The shifter also may be broke inside, take the side cover off and make sure the arm is hitting the detent-it's a roller sitting on a star shaped piece. Every time you move the shifter up or down it should go to the next opening on the star. If it is, then the autoclutch is hopefully fried as a tranny will require splitting the cases. Here is a pic of the tranny, it may help-

OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1986~model_dept_mfr~Honda~model_dept_id~189018~model_dept_name~TRX250+%28Fourtrax%29.asp' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://houseofmotorc... (Fourtrax).asp

Look around their site, sometimes seeing the diagrams will help understand how stuff works. You may also want to look by the steering stem or on the left side of the frame for a vin # or silver sticker with the year and model on it. Good luck with it.

  • Incognito

Posted December 26, 2006 - 05:50 AM

#6

Hey, the float may be sticking-is gas running out the overflow while it idles real high? Clean the bowl out and make sure the needle in the middle of the float can move freely. It looks like a utility, right? Your best bet for a manual is a clymers and the cheapest place to buy one is amazon.com. Is it shaft drive? Stick the rear end on a milk crate, start it up, and try putting it in gear. If the tires start to turn, the shaft and rear end should be ok. If the wheels don't turn, check to see if the shaft is turning. If it's not, then the autoclutch is fried or the gears stripped. The shifter also may be broke inside, take the side cover off and make sure the arm is hitting the detent-it's a roller sitting on a star shaped piece. Every time you move the shifter up or down it should go to the next opening on the star. If it is, then the autoclutch is hopefully fried as a tranny will require splitting the cases. Here is a pic of the tranny, it may help-

OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1986~model_dept_mfr~Honda~model_dept_id~189018~model_dept_name~TRX250+%28Fourtrax%29.asp' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://houseofmotorc... (Fourtrax).asp

Look around their site, sometimes seeing the diagrams will help understand how stuff works. You may also want to look by the steering stem or on the left side of the frame for a vin # or silver sticker with the year and model on it. Good luck with it.


Hey man, thanks for the info. Yes it is shaft driven, and when you say "utility", Its deffinatley not sporty:ride: so I would say it's a utillity. I know it's a torquey SOB, but far from fast. I'm definatley getting a manual. I'm gonna work on the carb today. I'll try the milk crate trick too. The shifter will click in the detents like it should, I can even find neutral, the light on the console comes on. But it always feels like it is in neutral reguardless of its position. I really hope it's just the autoclutch too.

  • Incognito

Posted December 26, 2006 - 02:22 PM

#7

Well got it running but still not going. I'll be getting a manual Friday. I did however get it to move under its own power for about 60 feet. Kinda wierd, I had it up on a crate and once I got it to run I shifted it into first and the wheels started to roll, hit second, still rolling. Then I took it off the crate and decided to take it for a ride. I got out of my driveway, rapped out first, hit second, almost pulled a wheelie and then hit thrid and....nothing, went back to second, nothing same in first. Can't even start it now cause the Neutral safety switch is not engaging.:bonk: Oh well I guess I'll hit it again Friday night

-Chad

  • trx125

Posted December 26, 2006 - 04:10 PM

#8

Try adjusting the autoclutch. its is on the right side opposite the shifter side. there is a increase and decrease direction. loosen the lock nut and increase tension until a slight drag is felt, then go back off about 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut while holding the screw to keep it in place. Don't overtighten the nut just snug it up good. You can search the forum for more detailed info on this procedure!

  • Incognito

Posted December 30, 2006 - 02:50 PM

#9

Ok, I got a manual today and tore into the clutch. The Clymers i got tells how to tear down the 250 and says "see table 1 for tolerances" well table 1 is all for the 200, not the 250. In fact there was no specs for the 250. I made a call to the local Honda shop and got the min/max specs. My drum is with in specs but I think my weights are shot. However i'm not sure if I'm checking them right. Has anyone done this on the cintrifgual clutches? Where should I get my measurements from? I'll post some pics of how I'm doing it later tonight. Also where is a good source for aftermarket kits? Honda whats 110 bucks for thiers.

Oh does anyone know if the trx250r plastics can easily be adapted to the trx250 utility model?

Thanks,
-Chad

  • Incognito

Posted December 31, 2006 - 08:45 AM

#10

Ok I got some pics. Factory specs for the weights are .116in to .120in. If I'm reading it right mine are at just under .11in.

Am I taking my measurements from the right place? Does it look like I need new weights? The dealer has to order them prepaid, so I can't just go compare a set. By the symtoms of my problem I don't think it is the clutch. I think I would experience slipping at the worst like it is now. I'm getting no movement at all in gear. Should I look more at the shifter mechanisim rather than the clutch?

Posted Image

Posted Image

Thanks
-Chad

  • Incognito

Posted January 21, 2007 - 07:06 AM

#11

I put everything back together and it does the same thing. I think my shift shaft or a shift fork is bent. Is it true I have to completely disassemble the engine to get it out? That is what my Clymer manual says. That sounds like a real pita just to replace a shaft in the tranny.





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