4 replies to this topic
  • JackAttack

Posted April 15, 2003 - 05:59 PM


You and I are the same weight(195 without gear) and both ride in AZ. Have you done anything to your suspension yet? I'm trying to "dial it in" without spending to much $$$. What do you think my chances are? :)

  • needsprayer

Posted April 16, 2003 - 09:32 AM



I added my weight (200lbs with gear on) and saddle bag weight (15lbs) for a total of 215 lbs. I am running .46 kg/mm Race Tech springs up front and a 10.5 kg/mm Eibach spring in the rear.

The Race Tech front springs are shorter than stock and required me to manufacture preload spacers from PVC pipe. It was extra work that I would rather have avoided. Eibachs' are the same length as the stock fork springs.

The stiffer springs make a huge difference when taking small jumps.

I also raised the forks 10mm above the top of the triple clamp for better cornering. Haven't had a problem with headshake at that height.

No revalving. Made minor adjustments from stock settings on the shock rebound (slower rebound) to handle kicker jumps better. No adjustments to the forks.

Wider footpegs is also a big plus, IMS Pro. The wider pegs make the suspension feel better because your footing is better.

I raised the handlebar a little for better feel. Cheap trick, take a second set of top bar clamps and turn them upside down.. Use longer bolts. There is a trade-off here, it raises the bar up and but also brings it closer to the rider. I'm only 5'-8" so this does not make me uncomfortable.

Hope this helps.

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  • JackAttack

Posted April 16, 2003 - 11:01 AM



Thanks for the info. I read your weight in another post and thought we were about the same. Although I'm 6'3" 200lbs.

I will go with the Eibachs front and back because of the length situation you spoke of. I am having good luck with the stock valving with some adjusting, the faster you go on this thing the better it is. But I can tell that I am riding low in the stroke, therefore stiffer springs are needed.

1. When you replaced the springs did you change out the fork oil also?
2. How many miles did you put on the stock fork oil before you did the change?
3. Was the oil snotty and yellow like some claim?
4. What new oil did you put in?

On my XR400 I just pulled out the old springs, pumped out the oil, filled with new oil, and dropped in the new springs. I was planning on doing the same with this bike. Do you see any possible problems I might have?

Any info. is appreciated. :)

  • needsprayer

Posted April 16, 2003 - 02:41 PM


1. When you replaced the springs did you change out the fork oil also?

Yes. However, I'm not sure what you mean by pumping so I will a little long winded. I removed the forks (loosen end cap while still in the clamp). After removing the spring, I hand pumped each fork to get all the old oil out.

2. How many miles did you put on the stock fork oil before you did the change?

About 400 miles, first fork oil change was done when the new springs were installed.

3. Was the oil snotty and yellow like some claim?

Not at all, however there was a lot a fine black particles in the oil.

4. What new oil did you put in?

Honda, 5W as recommended. However, I first flushed the forks with Automatic Transmission Fluid (much cheaper).

I may experiment with 2.5W next time just to see if I like it. However, I would play with the adjusters more or change the oil height first if I really had an issue with how it handles.

Be careful about torquing the top triple clamp bolts. Too much torque and you will crack the cast iron. I torqued mine to specs and it cracked. It was replaced free under warranty. Later I picked one up on e-bay (with a new a bar pad) as a spare for $5.00 + $6.00 shipping.

  • JackAttack

Posted April 16, 2003 - 08:02 PM


Thanks for the info my Pig Brother. :D

I plan on buying 47's for the front and 10.5 for the rear. 5w for the oil.

Let me know if you want to come up North for some riding. :)

PS: Don't be suprised if you here from me in the near future about that stator rewind. :D

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