WR400 baja designs kit-replacing ni-cad


41 replies to this topic
  • umu24013

Posted November 05, 2009 - 08:58 AM

#21

Where are you mounting these batterys? My BD kit on my 00' wr has a small pack inside the airbox..


-under the seat (Duracell DR36, 3600 mAh)
-under the carb (CSB GP1213, 1.3 Ah)

Edited by umu24013, November 05, 2009 - 09:20 AM.


  • spankthewan

Posted November 05, 2009 - 11:01 PM

#22

-under the seat (Duracell DR36, 3600 mAh)
-under the carb (CSB GP1213, 1.3 Ah)



I just put my 12V 2.5 AH Lead Acid battery in my airbox($36 @ battery hut). There is a mounting spot for a small battery from my wr BD kit, but this battery does not fit, so i just stuck it in the airbox. It doesn't block too much airflow from the filter, but the filter does hold it in place. If I take it offroad more I will just throw a zip tie around it, but it is fine for the street right now(sitting loose in the airbox). I kept the wire long so I could just pull the battery out when I need to clean the air filter. I have this running 2 LED assemblies that I mounted on the rear fender, front/rear blinkers, hi/lo beam headlight, and my rear running light and brake light...it seems to be doing fine with no external charging.

  • maxtherat

Posted November 09, 2009 - 06:47 PM

#23

I am in the same boat, my BD battery is toast: blown up- literally. My voltage regulator is putting out 14.6V w/o the headlight on. BD tech says the most should be 14V. Any suggestions for a battery that will fit in the same BD location( inside airbox) but provide more power? There is room for it to be wider and longer but not really any taller. I was thinking about putting two of thier packs together but I would imagine that there is something out there that is better and for less. Any pics of installs?

  • spankthewan

Posted November 09, 2009 - 10:50 PM

#24

Just go to your local battery store, and bring your bike or the measurements. Get them to build you up a NiCad or NiMH battery. You can save some money by doing the wiring yourself ( easy). Go with a NiMH battery if it doesn't cost much more than the NiCad. The BD batteries are only .8 AH, but you can easily get >2 AH out of a pack that size. So, 12V 2AH or more NiMH pack, and go to radio shack. Buy $5 in connectors and wire and do it up. Let us know how it works and how much it cost you.

  • Feral Donkey

Posted November 10, 2009 - 06:13 PM

#25

Here's an idea. A guy I work who's into RC airplanes. He's doing these new cheap ones that use these new brushless motors. They're powered by these little, lightweight 12 volt Lithium battery cells. He takes this larger 12 volt lithium battery with him to recharge the little one on the plane. The big one is the size of 3 packs of smokes. maybe a little bigger. They cost $20. He has his on his desk at work all day on the charger then he goes flying after work. Might be worth looking into.

I don't know how they hold up to vibration though.

  • spankthewan

Posted November 11, 2009 - 01:32 AM

#26

Dammit, my battery is now running low. I don't know if this is because I ran it on hi-beam while I was riding on the streets, or what. GREAT. I don't want to have to charge this thing every night, and I sure as hell do not want to have to rewind my stator. Do you think running it on low beam will make a difference? I was only running it on hi because the low is burnt out.

  • umu24013

Posted November 11, 2009 - 07:58 AM

#27

Any suggestions for a battery that will fit in the same BD location( inside airbox) but provide more power? There is room for it to be wider and longer but not really any taller. I was thinking about putting two of thier packs together but I would imagine that there is something out there that is better and for less. Any pics of installs?


Here is my WR426F install:

the battery itself
Posted Image

Posted Image

components layout
Posted Image

BTW, the subframe rails and the seat hold the battery in place very well. :smirk:

  • umu24013

Posted November 11, 2009 - 09:08 AM

#28

Go with a NiMH battery if it doesn't cost much more than the NiCad.


Although NiMH batteries have a higher capacity than NiCad batteries of the same size, NiMH batteries is not a good choice for this type of application.

-NiMH batteries won’t perform well under high amperage load (such as a headlight or a disc horn), providing only a fraction of the rated capacity since they have a higher internal resistance.

-NiMH batteries don’t like overheating

-NiMH batteries have at least twice the self-discharge rate of NiCad batteries

-NiMH batteries don’t like being deeply discharged

-NiMH batteries don’t like overcharging and high charging rate (amperage). Without a smart charge-limiting circuit, your generator/rectifier-regulator will kill your NiMH battery shortly.

  • umu24013

Posted November 11, 2009 - 10:52 AM

#29

Dammit, my battery is now running low. I don't know if this is because I ran it on hi-beam while I was riding on the streets, or what. GREAT. I don't want to have to charge this thing every night, and I sure as hell do not want to have to rewind my stator.


At high RPM, a WR400F stock stator (generator) puts out approx. 85W AC max. At the rectifier/regulator end it's about 75W DC. When just cruising around the town, your lighting system won't produce that much power. I assume, it's 40~60W DC.

Yes, it's almost enough for your H4 55/60 watt headlight bulb and the tail light, but not for charging your battery at a reasonable rate.

When idling at stoplights, your rectifier/regulator DC output is significantly less than that. If turned on, your headlight will drain the battery rapidly at these moments.

Do you think running it on low beam will make a difference? I was only running it on hi because the low is burnt out.


It's not that big of a difference between HI (60W) and LO (55W) beams. Just don't idle or warm up your bike with the headlight on.:smirk:

As an alternative to rewinding your WR400F stator, you can upgrade to a '00-'02 WR426F/WR250F stator. The upgraded unit is capable of producing 130W AC.

  • spankthewan

Posted November 11, 2009 - 11:53 PM

#30

I have a 2001 WR 426F. It worked fine the first few days after I put the battery in, but now the lighting is all screwed up. I don't want to have to take out the battery and charge it every night. Can I use an LED bulb cluster for the rear running/brake light? Will it save much energy? Is there another option for a headlight that won't suck the juice out of my battery. The lights even go all the way out and don't respond when I rev the engine, but then they come back after about 30 seconds of idle time (dim). This is scary as shit while on the freeway at night. Not that my headlight actually allows me to see anything, but I know nobody else can see ME!

help me please...

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  • umu24013

Posted November 12, 2009 - 10:10 AM

#31

I have a 2001 WR 426F. It worked fine the first few days after I put the battery in, but now the lighting is all screwed up. I don't want to have to take out the battery and charge it every night.


-the discharge rate is higher than the recharge rate, thus your battery level is always very low most of the time.

or

-regulator/rectifier is bad (the regulator part) not providing enough voltage/providing excess voltage

or

-battery is damaged due to overcharge/overheating (excess voltage from the RR unit)

Can I use an LED bulb cluster for the rear running/brake light? Will it save much energy?

Typically, LED bulbs last a bit longer, than regular filament bulbs and they are shock and vibration resistant.
And yes, a LED bulb will draw less current that the conventional dual filament P21 bulb (~3W/1W vs. 21W/5W).

Is there another option for a headlight that won't suck the juice out of my battery.


-find a lower wattage H4 bulb (non-standard)
-use a 35W HID headlight

The lights even go all the way out and don't respond when I rev the engine, but then they come back after about 30 seconds of idle time (dim). This is scary as shit while on the freeway at night. Not that my headlight actually allows me to see anything, but I know nobody else can see ME!

help me please...


I’d fully charge the battery using a regular charger and then measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
Then I’d install the battery on the bike and hook up the multimeter to the battery to see what’s going on with the voltage when the bike is running at cruising RPM, at idle, at high RPM (8000 and up). The first time with the headlight on, and then with the headlight off.

  • spankthewan

Posted November 12, 2009 - 11:09 PM

#32

Thanks so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. I feel like I just went to the doctor for free. I found this: http://www.v-leds.co...T-p4961285.html
Do you think it should just bolt right in?
I will be sure to measure the voltage as you specified.

Thanks, Shawn

  • umu24013

Posted November 13, 2009 - 09:41 AM

#33

I found this: http://www.v-leds.co...T-p4961285.html
Do you think it should just bolt right in?


Looks like a direct bolt on. I think the ballast would fit perfectly behind the stock headlight housing.

  • byggd

Posted November 13, 2009 - 03:05 PM

#34

I'm liking this battery. My BD kits has the battery attached to the headlight so I'll have to see if there is enough room.
http://www.ebattonline.com/

  • maxtherat

Posted November 14, 2009 - 09:37 AM

#35

I have a 2001 WR 426F. It worked fine the first few days after I put the battery in, but now the lighting is all screwed up. I don't want to have to take out the battery and charge it every night. Can I use an LED bulb cluster for the rear running/brake light? Will it save much energy? Is there another option for a headlight that won't suck the juice out of my battery. The lights even go all the way out and don't respond when I rev the engine, but then they come back after about 30 seconds of idle time (dim). This is scary as shit while on the freeway at night. Not that my headlight actually allows me to see anything, but I know nobody else can see ME!

help me please...


This is what happened to me and then I discovered that my battery had blown up. Unplug a lighting plug(plate light) from you harness and check the voltage with slightly elevated RPM and no headlight. Regulator should not produce more than 14.0 volts. Mine is 14.6-14.7. BD also recommended that whenever RPM's are high and steady that the headlight should be on to help prevent overcharging the battery.

  • umu24013

Posted November 15, 2009 - 12:40 AM

#36

BD also recommended that whenever RPM's are high and steady that the headlight should be on to help prevent overcharging the battery.


Absolutely. That's the main reason why these small battery packs die that quickly.

  • spankthewan

Posted November 15, 2009 - 01:36 AM

#37

Luckily my battery is not dead. It was recharged by the stator, and is working fine now. However, I will be sure to run the headlight while on the freeway. Thank you.

  • spankthewan

Posted November 27, 2009 - 10:56 PM

#38

I finally got a volt meter and will be checking everything tomorrow(not that I will know what these readings mean completely). I am wondering if my stator might be dead, since when I unplugged the battery tonight after the lights died, the lights did not come back on at high RPM. How can I know if this is true? I read up on it, but I am not exactly sure what areas on the bike they are referring to when the directions are given. Also, I read one instance where the owner's bike wouldn't run b/c the stator wasn't working, so they checked the reading on multiple sections of the stator. Luckily, my bike is running, so the stator isn't completely dead (I believe).

  • maxtherat

Posted November 28, 2009 - 07:08 PM

#39

Stupid question, did you check the fuse? What were your voltage readings?

  • spankthewan

Posted November 29, 2009 - 12:33 AM

#40

So, unplug the fuse (which is fine), and check the voltage there while the bike is running with the battery, which I am now charging, installed?




 
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