rocker arm screw & nut adjustment?

Started by drewbuddy, Oct 04 2009 09:35 AM
14 replies to this topic

  • drewbuddy

Posted 04 October 2009 - 09:35 AM

#1


Helllooo again,

been a while since I have come on here. Finally received all the parts I need to get working, but I am back here for questions of course!
I removed my 4 main rockers and replaced them (its all still out on the shelf) but I realized that each rocker had a screw at the end with a nut on it. It looks like this is the part that hits the valve? Clarification would be great.

Also, since I have to swap those on to the new rockers, is there a certain setting that I should keep them at such as one turn, two turns, or three turns out? Anything like that? Before I removed them from the old set I checked to see if there was an consistency, but each one was screwed out to a different height.

I checked my Clymers and OEM manuals for this bike (my one and only, XR600R '93) and found nothing about it other than "remove the rockers, replace the rockers.'

Any help, gents?

Also, I was having trouble with my masterlnk on the drive chain but I may have founnd the answer to that. I removed the clip, but it won't budge still. Am I correct in thinking that i will have to provide a squeezing pressure on it before I can pry off the plates?


Thanks A lot!

-Drew
206-304-8577

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  • Kenzo

Posted 04 October 2009 - 10:35 AM

#2

drewbuddy said:

Helllooo again,

been a while since I have come on here. Finally received all the parts I need to get working, but I am back here for questions of course!
I removed my 4 main rockers and replaced them (its all still out on the shelf) but I realized that each rocker had a screw at the end with a nut on it. It looks like this is the part that hits the valve? Clarification would be great.

Also, since I have to swap those on to the new rockers, is there a certain setting that I should keep them at such as one turn, two turns, or three turns out? Anything like that? Before I removed them from the old set I checked to see if there was an consistency, but each one was screwed out to a different height.

that's where u'll need to set ur valve clearances

I checked my Clymers and OEM manuals for this bike (my one and only, XR600R '93) and found nothing about it other than "remove the rockers, replace the rockers.'



Any help, gents?

Also, I was having trouble with my masterlnk on the drive chain but I may have founnd the answer to that. I removed the clip, but it won't budge still. Am I correct in thinking that i will have to provide a squeezing pressure on it before I can pry off the plates?

u shud be able to pry the plate off and then pry the master link out...be careful if ur reusing the chain and i alway replace at least the clip if not the complete clip link if the chain is to be reused :thumbsup:

Thanks A lot!

-Drew
206-304-8577

:cheers:

  • drewbuddy

Posted 04 October 2009 - 03:27 PM

#3

thanks,

do I need to lock-tite the clearances?

also I am not going to be reusing the chain. I tried pliers, screwdrivers (phillips & standard) to pop or pull the master apart. The clip is off but I am having issues with it still. *grunt* trying not to drive the tools through my left hand. I can't tell which side is a plate and which side is "the rest of the link."

I was looking at the rear sprocket, too, which is going to come off and be replaced. On the outside it has allens sockets and the back side has large nuts. This might just take some more force than I have applied to it as of yet but I put both tools on and push both in opposite directions to no avail!

-Drew

  • HeadTrauma

Posted 04 October 2009 - 03:49 PM

#4

drewbuddy said:

1.) do I need to lock-tite the clearances?

2.) also I am not going to be reusing the chain. I tried pliers, screwdrivers (phillips & standard) to pop or pull the master apart. The clip is off but I am having issues with it still. *grunt* trying not to drive the tools through my left hand. I can't tell which side is a plate and which side is "the rest of the link."

3.) I was looking at the rear sprocket, too, which is going to come off and be replaced. On the outside it has allens sockets and the back side has large nuts. This might just take some more force than I have applied to it as of yet but I put both tools on and push both in opposite directions to no avail!

1.) No, no Loctite on the lash adjusters; just tighten them down like the book says.
2.) The removable side plate should be under the clip on the master link. You may be able to use a punch to drive the "rest" of the master link out by the pins.
3.) Were you twisting in the correct opposite directions? Sorry, I gotta ask these things. It's also possible that there is thread locker on them. You may just have to use brute force, but apply more of it to the nut and not the Allen.

  • drewbuddy

Posted 04 October 2009 - 09:49 PM

#5

thanks.

that is a good question about the twisting. i tried both directions with no result. i will try harder in what appears to be the right direction. (on the backside of the sprocket...loosen to the right..? this seems reverse, but since the allen is on front...)

-Drew

  • Kenzo

Posted 05 October 2009 - 05:54 AM

#6

drewbuddy said:

thanks.

that is a good question about the twisting. i tried both directions with no result. i will try harder in what appears to be the right direction. (on the backside of the sprocket...loosen to the right..? this seems reverse, but since the allen is on front...)

-Drew


put the allen wrench in the bolt and hold it, then turn the nut counterclockwise w/ a breakerbar :bonk:

:cheers:

  • drewbuddy

Posted 05 October 2009 - 09:53 AM

#7

in that case i need a breaker bar! will try

  • wattner

Posted 06 October 2009 - 05:50 AM

#8

If the bolt head gets stripped and will not hold an allen wrench, then you can take a small drill bit and drill the edge of the bolt down into the sprocket a little bit. Then, take the drill bit out, turn it around and put the smooth end of the drill bit into the hole. This will lock it together so you can man up on the nut behind it. My sprocket bolts are done like this now.

  • drewbuddy

Posted 06 October 2009 - 07:37 AM

#9

thanks for the tip! I might have to do that.

-Andy

  • drewbuddy

Posted 07 October 2009 - 04:19 PM

#10

had to use my foot to leverage them off, but it worked.

Anyone have tips on replacing the valve springs? Do I need a special tool? Same goes for camshaft replacement...

Thanks,

Drew

  • HeadTrauma

Posted 07 October 2009 - 04:49 PM

#11

drewbuddy said:

Anyone have tips on replacing the valve springs? Do I need a special tool? Same goes for camshaft replacement...

The cam can be removed with common hand tools, but the valve springs should be removed with a compressor of some sort. Using the socket-and-hammer method is a good way to damage the valve's keeper grooves.

  • drewbuddy

Posted 07 October 2009 - 04:58 PM

#12

thanks, I will look into that.

Do you recommend 'assembly grease/oil' or just any motor oil to put on the new rockers and hotcam I am putting in? not sure if there is a difference, but they do sell it as if it was.

  • Srad600

Posted 07 October 2009 - 06:02 PM

#13

:thumbsup: Assembly lube on any parts that need to make contact (lobes, bearings, etc) and add oil to the head directly (via valve inspection port) as well as to the reservoir.

  • HeadTrauma

Posted 08 October 2009 - 07:10 AM

#14

I just oil down the valvetrain before putting the head cover on, but a little assembly lube on the cam lobes wouldn't be a bad idea. I think Honda specifies a "moly oil" that you make yourself from a 1:1 ratio of moly grease and engine oil.

  • drewbuddy

Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:49 PM

#15

thought i posted this question:

the moly grease i bought has graphite--is that ok?



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