156 replies to this topic

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

clc3251 said:

I believe that that spring is solely for the decomp cam and should not affect the operation of the kickstart gears.  I eliminated the decomp parts on the kickstart spindle, including that spring, and my bike kicks over very easily without it and no gears slip.  I still have the auto-decomp on the cam, but no other manual decomp.

That explains why the later model kick mechanisms don't have the spring. I noticed when I looked up the mechanism in the parts fiche that there was a change in 89-89... same time they did away with the cablefrom the kick mech to the head I would assume. I guess when I pull the side cover off, I may go ahead an remove the decomp cam as well so it isn't working the arm on the side of the case.

[HeadTrauma Get Help Now]

The automatic compression release actuated by the kickstarter was last used in '87. '88 saw the introduction of the cam-mounted one that all the '88-00 XR600s and '93+ 650Ls have.

FYI.

clc3251 said:

I believe that that spring is solely for the decomp cam and should not affect the operation of the kickstart gears.

You're right; I was getting that spring mixed up with the other one on the other side that looks just like it.

ThumpNRed, I don't think you really need to pull the clutch cover unless you want to.

[clc3251 TT Bronze Member]

ThumpNRed said:

That explains why the later model kick mechanisms don't have the spring. I noticed when I looked up the mechanism in the parts fiche that there was a change in 89-89... same time they did away with the cablefrom the kick mech to the head I would assume. I guess when I pull the side cover off, I may go ahead an remove the decomp cam as well so it isn't working the arm on the side of the case.

That's what I did.  If you want a really clean look, you can locate a later XR600 cover that doesn't have the decomp lever on it.  I just painted mine:

When the kickstart arm is up, you can hardly see it:

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

HeadTrauma said:

The automatic compression release actuated by the kickstarter was last used in '87. '88 saw the introduction of the cam-mounted one that all the '88-00 XR600s and '93+ 650Ls have.

FYI.



You're right; I was getting that spring mixed up with the other one on the other side that looks just like it.

ThumpNRed, I don't think you really need to pull the clutch cover unless you want to.

I will when it comes time to dump the oil (clean the screen), but until then... no worries. Dodged a bullet!

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

clc3251 said:

That's what I did.  If you want a really clean look, you can locate a later XR600 cover that doesn't have the decomp lever on it.  I just painted mine:

When the kickstart arm is up, you can hardly see it:

Looks like different years had different kick levers. Yours looks like it's iron (similar to the one I bought originally that I think is off of an XR500...

doesn't have enough bend at the top to clear the frame), the one I ended up with is alluminum.

Mine wanted to interfere with the brake lever and the brake light switch. I had to do some tweaking to get everything to play well together.

[HeadTrauma Get Help Now]

The steel kicker very likely came from a twin carb bike. From what I have seen, they are usually a little shorter than the aluminum ones.

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

Pulled the clutch cover off tonight and yanked the actuator cam out. Now the spring has a partner "spare part". One less thing rattling around inside the motor (saved a few grams of weight too... ) First time I've ever cracked the motor open without first dumping the frame tank. Amazing... lost less than a half liter. I guess my oil pump is keeping it in the tank like it is supposed to.

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

The piggie has a strange growl when I first crank her up (using the button). The growl is easy to isolate and I am pretty sure it is the kickstarter gears spinning. It does it for maybe a minute and then stops (once it warms up a bit). I checked to see if everything looked OK last night when I had the clutch cover off and everything was picture perfect.
Anything to fret about?

I am shredding my rear D606 breaking in the motor. I guess I should put the Trailwing back on for break-in

[stewart_frank TT Bronze Member]

Great post! What did you use to get the old paint off of the XL600 side cover you used. It looks great.

Stewart

[clc3251 TT Bronze Member]

I have a medium size bench top bead blast cabinet that the cover just fits into.  That stripped off the old finish pretty quick.  The cabinet is bulky and messy to use but I actually use it a lot to strip and refinish parts.

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

stewart_frank said:

Great post! What did you use to get the old paint off of the XL600 side cover you used. It looks great.

Stewart

I used automotive paint stripper on mine. Followed it up with wet sanding and a scotch-brite pad. Mine was really nasty when I got it (PO had tried to "patch-up" the OEM red paint).

[brother87xl600 TT Member]

Replacing the kicker spring on my 87'xl 600r.  At the point of putting kicker and spring back in.  Tryed to cheat and not take the clutch basket off.  Any tricks or do I have to break down and buy the grabber to take to clutch off and do it right?  Great picks on original thread poster.  Was identical to my 87's inside from what i could tell.  Great to come from from my garage to TT and see this stuff online with step by steps from other people that geek on this stuff.  Love TT

[pdxthumper TT Bronze Member]

This is  a great mod, but due to the AC CDI if the battery is dead, the bike still won't start even with the kicker, unless you can kick it enough to get a float volatage high enough to run the cdi.

[clc3251 TT Bronze Member]

pdxthumper said:

This is  a great mod, but due to the AC CDI if the battery is dead, the bike still won't start even with the kicker, unless you can kick it enough to get a float volatage high enough to run the cdi.

Haven't tried it with a dead battery, but it started right up with no battery at all using the kicker

[ThumpNRed TT Titanium Member]

clc3251 said:

Haven't tried it with a dead battery, but it started right up with no battery at all using the kicker

I remember you commenting about that. I figured if I am faced with a dead battery and cant bump start, I will disconnect the battery if the first few kicks dont get it fired up. Get it running and reconnect everything.

[pdxthumper TT Bronze Member]

clc3251 said:

Haven't tried it with a dead battery, but it started right up with no battery at all using the kicker

Intersting, it looks like the +12v to the cdi is via the starter relay, I wouldn't have expected the stator to put out enough juice by kicking to have enough left after the reg/rec to move the coil in the relay and power the cdi.  Did you push down the starter buton when kicked it?

[clc3251 TT Bronze Member]

pdxthumper said:

Intersting, it looks like the +12v to the cdi is via the starter relay, I wouldn't have expected the stator to put out enough juice by kicking to have enough left after the reg/rec to move the coil in the relay and power the cdi.  Did you push down the starter buton when kicked it?

Nope, just kicked it

[pdxthumper TT Bronze Member]

clc3251 said:

Nope, just kicked it

hmm, when my battery failed, the bike died as I was going 60mph.  Which is why I am suprised yours ran without a battery at all.  

[flatfender-2009 TT Member]

Do you guys think $200 for the aluminum kick lever, kick shaft with all gears and springs, idle gear with bushing and mag cover is a good price for the parts needed? The parts bike is an '86 XL600R, or should I shop around some more?

TIA

[clc3251 TT Bronze Member]

That's a little high for the older parts.  Figure $25-$50 for the gears, $25-$50 for the cover, and $50-$100 for the kicker.  You should be between $100 and $200 for the parts from an 86.  I would offer $150 and see if I could get it for $175.  Might be worth it to get it all from one place and not have to shop around and pay separate shipping on everything.