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Want to add a kickstart to your XR650L? Here's how


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156 replies to this topic
  • clc3251

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted 14 October 2009 - 06:34 PM


Tons of xr600 parts just showed up on Ebay.  Lots of kickstart parts with low buy it now prices.  Get them while they're hot!

  • suzukisupermoto

    TT Bronze Member

102 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted 24 October 2009 - 05:18 PM


Well, I broke down and sold the XR650L a few days ago. I just couldnt get over the heigth of the bike even with w lower seat and lowering link. So, I bought an 86 XL600R....kickstarter comes standard!!! :bonk:

  • pdxthumper

    TT Bronze Member

247 posts
Location: Oregon

Posted 28 October 2009 - 01:19 PM


FYI
For any who are looking to do this mod, there is a 97 xr600 being parted on ADV rider.  Pick up the bottom end and kicker and you have all the parts needed.

  • desert4seat

    TT Silver Member

514 posts
Location: California

Posted 29 October 2009 - 04:47 PM


GREAT!
Thanks for taking the time to post this up in such detail!
This is what makes the internet great!  Seriously, it's time consuming to gather all the info and write a "how to" article!  
Thanks again for taking the time to help us (& me) out!  What a GREAT mod!:smirk::thumbsup:

  • Wboo

    TT Member

73 posts
Location: Idaho

Posted 01 November 2009 - 11:09 AM


pdx,

I could not find it, care to post the link?

  • pdxthumper

    TT Bronze Member

247 posts
Location: Oregon

Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:41 AM


http://www.advrider....ighlight=xr600r

Search parts for xr600 and xr600r, saw and additional post.

  • stroken56

    TT Newbie

11 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted 16 November 2009 - 04:45 PM


Great info here guys!  But, the seal part # 91202-hk9-003 should be part# 91202-kj9-003.  I checked pricing and availability of these parts through Honda.  The price of the parts exceed $1,000 easily and they are all still available at this time!

Edited by stroken56, 22 November 2009 - 05:52 AM.
Forgot to provide great information.


  • Strudy68

    TT Member

27 posts
Location: Iowa

Posted 25 November 2009 - 11:19 PM


Thanks for all the great info..looking into this for my new(used) 05 ....

  • clc3251

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted 26 November 2009 - 07:16 AM


stroken56 said:

Great info here guys!  But, the seal part # 91202-hk9-003 should be part# 91202-kj9-003.  I checked pricing and availability of these parts through Honda.  The price of the parts exceed $1,000 easily and they are all still available at this time!

You are correct.  Must have gotten all those part numbers jumbled in my head.  I'm surprised there aren't more wrong!  I tried to edit the original post but I don't seem to be able to do it.  Maybe because it's a sticky.  Anyway, thanks for catching it.

  • Road Warrior NYC

    TT Member

27 posts
Location: New York

Posted 20 January 2010 - 06:48 PM


Yea.  Awesome post.  Thanks for taking the time and for doing an amazing tech write-up.  Ive never considered a kick before reading your piece!

  • tractor4play

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Ireland

Posted 26 January 2010 - 03:28 PM


clc3251 said:

You will need some tools that you may not already have.  Some are difficult to find and not carried by your local hardware store.  I found everything I didn’t have at Harborfreight.com.  The following are absolutely required so get them ahead of time:

1. 27mm socket (for the clutch nut)  
2. 30mm deep impact socket (for the primary drive gear)      
3. Torque wrench which reads in foot pounds $30.00
4. Torque wrench that reads in inch pounds $30.00
5. A complete set of metric sockets and wrenches up to 24mm.  You could get away with up to 17mm if you use adjustable wrenches for the oil lines and your rear axle wrench in your tool kit to remove the valve adjuster covers. $30.00
6. 5mm & 6mm Allen wrenches.  A set from a nut driver is best as you can chuck it into a ¼ inch socket and use that to torque the required fasteners with the inch pound torque wrench $5
7. A penny (to put between the primary drive gear and the clutch basket gear to hold them in place while you remove the primary drive gear nut. You don’t need the special Honda tool as a penny works fine $.01
8. Can of Permatex copper spray a gasket high-temp sealant (for the head gasket, don’t skip this or you will have a leak & have to redo it like I did)

An impact wrench makes it very easy to remove the big nuts in the engine and the engine mounts.  If you don’t have one you will need a special tool to hold the clutch still while you remove the nut.  I already had an impact wrench and it spun both nuts off easily with only hand pressure to hold the clutch still

Now for the parts:  You will need the following parts at a minimum to complete your conversion.  

1. Countershaft from a late model XR600R (I used one for a 1995 XR600R)
2. Right crankcase cover from an XR600R or XL600 (I used one for an early eighties XL600)
3. Kickstart spindle and parts attached to it (complete list at the end of this novel)
4. Idler gear and bushing
5. Kickstart lever from an XR600R or XL600 (others may work but I don’t know)
6. Gaskets for the crankcase, right crankcase cover, cylinder, cylinder head and cylinder head cover
7. Copper washers for the oil line that attaches to the right crankcase cover

Here is a list of new parts and part numbers if you decide to buy new, but it is very expensive @ $860.67:

23220-MN9-980 Countershaft $  98.93

11330-MN1-680 Right crankcase cover $164.18
91106-KF0-008  Bearing $  15.10
91202-HK9-003 Seal $    2.89

Kickstart parts
28211-ML6-770  Pinion $123.93
28212-MK2-680 Collar $  13.05
28213-KF0-010  Ratchet $  26.92
28215-MK2-000 Kick stopper plate $    8.60
28223-KF0-004  Spring $    2.33
28250-MG3-000 Spindle $102.98
28255-MG3-010 Collar $    4.84
28261-MK2-000 Spring $    6.86
90131-MA7-000 Bolt (2 required) $    2.63 x 2 = $    5.26
90452-VM0-000 Washer $    4.62
90454-428-000   Washer $    1.52
90501-KF0-000  Washer $    3.35
90601-329-000    Circlip $    1.45
28221-MN1-670  Idler gear $  47.58
28222-MG3-000  Idler gear bushing $  14.09
28300-MN1-671  Kick starter arm $  81.93
28241-MN1-671  Joint $  38.57
28333-124-000    Spring $    1.23
90101-KNS-670  Bolt $    2.50
96211-08000        Bolt $      .99

Gaskets
11394-MN1-700  Right crankcase cover gasket $  12.11
11191-MN1-700  Crankcase gasket $  13.88
12191-MN1-700  Cylinder head gasket $    6.89
12251-MN1-671  Cylinder head gasket $  20.97
12391-MG2-790  Cylinder head cover gasket $  28.60
90544-439-930     Copper washers $1.13 x 4     =  $    4.52
..i have a slr 650 which is the same engine as xr l.i also have a dual start xl 600 lm engine as a spare.can i fit the kicker parts from the xl600 lm by just removing the clutch and oil pump etc and not seperating the crank cases.ill use the dual start xl kicker and side casing.what do you think?cheers ian.

  • stroken56

    TT Newbie

11 posts
Location: North Carolina

Posted 27 January 2010 - 02:12 AM


tractor, you'll have to split the cases to change the counter shaft.  The counter shafts are diffrent.  But nothing would make me happier than you proving me wrong.

  • HeadTrauma

    Get Help Now

5733 posts
Location: California

Posted 27 January 2010 - 11:08 AM


Do you know how many people over here would kill for a complete XL600LM engine?! I have no doubt that someone in "The XL600 Thread" on ADV would. :ride:

  • tractor4play

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Ireland

Posted 28 January 2010 - 02:05 PM


HeadTrauma said:

Do you know how many people over here would kill for a complete XL600LM engine?! I have no doubt that someone in "The XL600 Thread" on ADV would. :ride:

i bought the engine of ebay for 21 quid.i then got it shipped from england to belfast and never got charged due to some mix up.cheap as chips although the big ends gone...

  • tractor4play

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Ireland

Posted 28 January 2010 - 02:12 PM


cheers for the detailed information.i think i have most of the tools and a couple of gasket kits.just need to make a clutch tool out of old clutch plates.i go to night school for welding so should only take an hour to throw together....

  • dirty-diesel

    TT Newbie

15 posts
Location: Alabama

Posted 02 February 2010 - 06:42 AM


Thanks for putting together all this great info!
I just about have everything to do this swap but I am interested to know if the xr650l countershaft has an oil hole drilled at the very end of it like the xr600 one does. It almost looks like the idler gear could go on it without the bushing on it?

Does the idler gear spin when the engine is running?

  • byron555

    TT Bronze Member

100 posts
Location: Wisconsin

Posted 02 February 2010 - 07:13 AM


dirty-diesel said:

Thanks for putting together all this great info!
I just about have everything to do this swap but I am interested to know if the xr650l countershaft has an oil hole drilled at the very end of it like the xr600 one does. It almost looks like the idler gear could go on it without the bushing on it?

Does the idler gear spin when the engine is running?

the xrl shaft does not have the hole in it (99% sure) and (99% sure) the idler spins all the time... even if it did not the counter shaft is always spinning when in motion, and that  is where the idler gear rides.

  • clc3251

    TT Bronze Member

143 posts
Location: Pennsylvania

Posted 04 February 2010 - 03:36 PM


XR650L shaft does not have an oil hole in it.  The idler gear spins as long as the engine is running.  The idler gear will fit on the end of a XR650L countershaft without the bushing, but it is machined rough and the gear is way too big so it flops around.  Thought of that before I did my conversion and ruled it out.

  • dirty-diesel

    TT Newbie

15 posts
Location: Alabama

Posted 05 February 2010 - 06:15 AM


good to know thanks

  • frog13

    TT Bronze Member

448 posts
Location: Ohio

Posted 23 March 2010 - 01:29 PM


clc3251---NICE job!,your quite the research guy!!.


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